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  • 4 weeks later...

DSC04974.thumb.JPG.a34fb5a1b2ea667745c1fbed57729f3b.JPGEvening All,

 

Its been a while since I updated this thread but I have been beavering away. The chassis is complete, the brakes have been rebuilt but I have to be honest, it was only last night that I realised that there was no brake light switch, so I had to plumb one in today. Suspension is all in place and ready to roll. The steering wheel was in a bit of a mess so it was out with the milliput and a very relaxing evening it was too. The starter switch was totally knackered, so I have incorporated a land Rover series one switch into the original housing. The radiator has been off to be re-cored and is ready to be refitted. Tyre fitting went perfectly with the only problem being getting the old tyres off and what a right bas.....d of a job that was. Out of the five wheel rims there are 3 different wheel manufacturers and it is interesting to see the difference in the profiles of the rims. One look almost parallel to the bead, one had a definite raised area on the bead and one had the bead that had a definite indentation in the bead area. I know, I must be very sad studying wheel rims but...…………. I am a head of schedule, so today I took the engine block and head off to the machinists, I hadn't intended to do anything with the engine until the new year but I had the time so took advantage of it. looking forward it is quite possible that I will get the rear body rebuilt before my self imposed deadline, only time will tell.

 

Jon

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One of the petrol tanks wasn't in the best of condition, having a large area of rust that I cut out and welded a patch in, the other one was in good condition but to be on the safe side I have lined both with POR. This evenings job was get the tank mounting brackets and tanks bolted in and piped up. The brackets are felt lined, I had a hell of a job finding the correct felt and in the end, I had to import it from the US via Canada.

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Over the last couple of days i have just been trying to clear some of the smaller items that needed mending, remanufacturing and the last two major components pertaining to the drivers cab, the doors and the windscreen frames. All the rails for the windscreen frames were in a very poor condition but repairable, apart from one and for that, I just made a new one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have had a bout of the dreaded man flu and as I am unable to sit still for too long, I decided to rise from my death bed and start the canvas covers for the seat bases. I have an old back rest cover for the drivers seat, which I can use as a  pattern to make a new one but does anyone have a picture of the passengers seat back rest. It's attached to the rear bulkhead by four turn buckles but that's all I know.

I don't want to assemble too many parts to the front of the vehicle before I fit the engine and as we are now in week five of a four week production schedule for the engine and that's before I get it back for rebuilding, I decided to start the rear body. There's not much of the original body left and what is left is very rusty, so its start again. There are some sections that I can use, the front bulkhead but the lower section was rusted out and needed replacement. The strengtheners for the wheel arches that are in excellent condition. Front body corner sections that need repair And the wheel arches that are in fairly good condition.

The new base, is based on a picture that I took at the Coberton collection, I assume that it is original, I think that I may have gone over the top a little but surprisingly, in its current state, its no heavier  than the old body,  but then as my wife pointed out rust doesn't weigh that much.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Jon,

It's looking good indeed. But needs more work then visible in the photos. Engine is seized, lot of play on rear axle, woodrot in box and a bit in the cab. All electrics and instruments work as well as lights! Some panel rot but minimal.

Rob doesn't list the correct Parts List on his website and I also asked him a month ago. He unfortunately never had the correct C8 list for production from early 1944.

Regards, 

Marc

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening All,

Between the rain showers on Saturday, we managed to get the body back on the chassis and today I started assembling all the remanufactured parts on to it. I picked the engine up from the machinists on Tuesday, so all being well I should start to rebuild it this week.

Jon

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  • 4 weeks later...
17 hours ago, johann morris said:

The engine is now ready to be installed, I am not sure what the original engine colour would have been but the base colour of the engine before I sprayed it was very close to the current body colour, so I just used the same colour.

Jon

 Nice work Jon the truck is really starting to come together,  what I know about Morris's can be written on a very small business card but I have seen a number of first class restorations by people who do know there stuff and they seem to paint their engines a mid green shade rather like the old 'A' series engines in Minors and early Minis see photo below

Pete

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Edited by Pete Ashby
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Hello Pete,

That makes you more of a Morris expert than me then.

I think paint colour is partly down to personal choice and a subject that a lot of people can't agree on. I assume that someone, somewhere has documented evidence, that at that time in history, those engines were painted that colour, or could it be that there is just some circumstantial evidence or maybe someone just picked a colour and everyone else copied it. Personally I have gone for a evidence based approach to the problem. As far as I can tell, my engine had been painted twice, both times when the engine was separate from the rest of the vehicle. There was no evidence of over spray and components hadn't been sprayed as one block but as separate pieces, which would seem strange, as most military rebuilds that I have seen are sprayed one colour and as one large component. The top coat of green was slightly darker than the current body colour but not much and I would assume that this was the rebuild colour of 1952. The base colour was very near to the current body colour which I assume was the original colour and that is roughly what it is painted now. What I do find strange is that the head had no evidence of any paint, the water pump was green, the water outlet on the top of the cylinder head, a separate component, was green, the oil filter assembly was green but the head, rust colour, even under items mounted to it, such as the oil filter housing, there was no evidence of paint. This makes me wonder, was the head painted at all or just left as cast iron colour, maybe as a paint saving exercise.

Anyway I like it, so that's all that matters.

 

Jon

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Not an MV expert but we do know from MG and British Leyland world that, as mentioned, the engines were painted green. However, the paint vat was just refilled and refilled and while green, the exact shade was not standardized. So, now we buy a standard shade from places like Moss motors but originally there would have been more variation - but all just green.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening All,

The engine  in went in well, once we had worked out the correct angle of entry, in fact I was surprised how easily it mated to the gear box. Hopefully over the Christmas period I will get it up and running, if my dear wife will let me. I am not sure about the rear light arrangement but I am going to live with it and see if it grows on me.

Jon

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Hi Jon,

 

It's a really nice restoration and all coming together nicely! I would only be a bit apprehensive with the position of your rear lights. Being that far forward they will be difficult to see from straight behind as possibly obscured by the tailgate steps and even more so from an angle. On my C8 the lights are positioned as you can see in the photo and I think in a much better, read safer, visible position.

All the best with your beautiful C8!

 

Regards,

Marc

 

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Edited by Marc van Aalderen
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That's one of my worries Marc but in reality they aren't as far forward as they look.

According to the maintenance manual the H/T leads should have a 15000 ohm inline resistor between the end of the H/T lead and the top of the spark plug, does anyone have any ideas where one might acquire some.

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