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WCMatt

Removing bolts from rear plate on ferret

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Attempting to remove rear plate from my ferret so I gain access to the radiator (belts & hose replacement). There are two bolts on the lower (sloping) side of the armor that are oposite one another with boogered up nuts. The nuts turn inside their cages along with the bolt when I place a socket on them. I tried jamming a flat head screw driver inside the cage to hold the nut in place but no dice, nuts still turn w/ bolt. Here's what I was thinking:

 

 

 

A) I haven't removed the bolts across the top (vertical face)of the plate as I was saving those for last (don't want the plate to fall on me). If I remove those maybe the weight of the plate itself would put enough pressure onto the errant nuts to keep them from rotating and I could remove the bolts. Would have to figure out something to keep the plate from falling on me, though.

 

B) Leaving the upper bolts in place, take the angle grinder to the two non compliant bolts and cut 'em off. With the plate removed, I could then deal with the problem nuts in their cages (which are on the hull).

 

What does the hive mind think? Anyone else on here ever have this problem?

 

Matt

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Option B

 

Diana

 

Attempting to remove rear plate from my ferret so I gain access to the radiator (belts & hose replacement). There are two bolts on the lower (sloping) side of the armor that are oposite one another with boogered up nuts. The nuts turn inside their cages along with the bolt when I place a socket on them. I tried jamming a flat head screw driver inside the cage to hold the nut in place but no dice, nuts still turn w/ bolt. Here's what I was thinking:

 

 

 

A) I haven't removed the bolts across the top (vertical face)of the plate as I was saving those for last (don't want the plate to fall on me). If I remove those maybe the weight of the plate itself would put enough pressure onto the errant nuts to keep them from rotating and I could remove the bolts. Would have to figure out something to keep the plate from falling on me, though.

 

B) Leaving the upper bolts in place, take the angle grinder to the two non compliant bolts and cut 'em off. With the plate removed, I could then deal with the problem nuts in their cages (which are on the hull).

 

What does the hive mind think? Anyone else on here ever have this problem?

 

Matt

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Thanks. I was pretty much leaning towards option B, as well. I've removed those plates before on other ferrets & they're not that heavy but I still don't want it falling on me :cool2:.

 

Matt

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Went with option B and now I have to deal with those little caged nuts. I guess even nuts don't like being in cages :-D. While I was removing the last two bolts I had my body propped up against the plate to keep it from falling free, onto the floor. When the last two bolts were out, the plate was still held fast to the hull. Had to use a malet to break the plate free from the hull. Apparently, someone had used caulk to make a seal between the plate & the flange it bolts up to. Has anyone else ever seen that done before?

 

 

Matt

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. Apparently, someone had used caulk to make a seal between the plate & the flange it bolts up to. Has anyone else ever seen that done before?

 

 

 

 

Hi Matt,

That was standard army practise to use sealer on the rear hull plate, it was called Prestikon and was supplied in strips. It was to keep water out if they went though any.

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Hi Matt,

That was standard army practise to use sealer on the rear hull plate, it was called Prestikon and was supplied in strips. It was to keep water out if they went though any.

 

That makes sense. Thanks, Richard!

 

Matt

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I have detailed that problem in my Ferret restoration thread (now stalled).

 

You can buy a newer style which I am ok with using in a sympathetic restoration.

 

Hope these few pictures help. I ground off the circular raised piece off the back to help it sit flush

Ferret caged nut 2.jpg

Ferret caged nut  1.jpg

Cage nut old.jpg

Cage nut new.jpg

Cage nuts new.jpg

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:yawn: And don't forget to put Copper slip grease on the bolt threads when you reassemble!..........

 

You never know when you might have to remove the rear Armour again in the future.

And you DONT want to go through all this again!.......;)

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WCMatt, Robin Craig had the best solution to this problem that many of us have. I replaced all of mine as well as the bolts which were ground with a tapered point to help aid in alignment and starting the threads. This really is the correct way to deal with this problem.

6EA74A66-76E2-4071-8B6A-3757D28E2EB4.jpeg

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Thanks for the compliment Steve, my mindset was driven by arriving at the decision that those captive nut things just get to the point that they can not be fixed, replacement seemed the only sensible avenue and  tried to get the closet I could at the time. That seems ages ago now.

I still have two more vehicles of mine to do one day . . .

 

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Just a small bit of advice on this procedure. But, once you have removed your Armour.

IF, the majority of nuts are OK. It is a VERY good idea to run a Tap through each captive nut.

To clean out the threads for reassembly. THEN use Copperslip on the Bolt threads when refitting Those as well.

This WILL serve you well upon reassembly, & is good Workshop practice! ;) 

Edited by ferretfixer

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