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64EK26

Bedford MWC restoration

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Hi

Picked these up plus other bits from my metal fabricator. Very pleased with th tank trays , channel for rear of cab.A friend of mine kindly lent me the oil air bath filter bracket and getting this made. Does anyone need tank trays, rear channel or oil air bath filter. (costs appx £110 for pair of tank trays, channel £80, filter bracket £55. Price will come down if I can get a reasonable quantity made. PM me if you are interested. (tank tray needs a large drain hole, what size is it ? )

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Posted (edited)

Hi Richard did I give you the details of the company that made me a dozen of these trays ? I supplied an original tray for them to copy which they did inc cutting the correct sized holes in the correct position, the corners are not butt welded along their length but are folded and spot welded please refer to page 13 of my resto blog which shows the correct method of constructon are your trays tapered ? couldn't tell from your pics.

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Edited by rampant rivet
Add pics

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Hi Jeremey

They are tapered, and the correct size. You did send me the details of the company that made them for you, but they never responded to my request for quotation. I thought that they may be folded in the corners and spot welded, but have seen later versions that have been seam welded, not a 100% sure if these were original or repaired. All in all still very pleased with them, I will be drilling small drain holes in corners, plus punching the large drain hole..

Just ordered a load of metal, for floor pan, internal bin, door skins etc.etc. So loads of metal bashing in the next few weeks.The plan is to get all this loosely fitted before the bulkhead goes away for final grit blast and etch prime. When back at the "shed", I will do the final bit of 'fettling' to get it all fitting really well.

The hoop sticks (1" OD 10swg),  rear mudguard supports and spare whee (1.5" x 0.2" angle iron) will be fun to bend into shape (watch this space....)

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Hi Richard,

how do you intend (if at all) to secure the metal cab sides to the wooden framing across the top and down the front edge behind the door capping. I am refurbishing the back half of the cab at the moment, and on the evidence of what I have found during the strip down, it could be panel pins, csk screws or nothing at all -and that’s the evidence from just one side.

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Hi Simon

These photos should help

Preety sure they are 1" nails and round head No.8 slotted countersunk screws

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Don't know why the photos are inverted or on their side

Cheers

Richard

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Hi Simon

Just had a very close look at the nail holes. They do have a small countersunk section, the hole size is 18swg (1.2mm). I definitely took out flat head round nails. The small countersunk is presumably to allow the nail head to be less raised.  At one time you could by “hidden head” nails, these had a small countersink on them.  The only ones I can find at the  moment are much too big a diameter or small copper ones used for boat building.

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Thanks Richard

that helps and that little countersink in your panel ties up with what I see on one of my panels as well. The other doesn’t have any nail holes at all; hence my confusion. Better see what’s on offer at B&Q......

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Posted (edited)

Standard panel pins a fraction too small in diameter for some existing pin holes sadly. Bite around edge in those cases is marginal. Fit the countersinks though. In addition there are three pin holes through the panel into the middle frame in line with the two carriage bolts. No pin holes at all on the other side panel, although there were screw holes beneath in the frame.  That panel must date from the post-War rebuild as it only had post war colours on it. Sidescreen sockets from Vintage Supplies fit perfectly and lock the panel down onto the frame. Just sanded the chrome to give paint a key.

Edited by simon king

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Thought I had better post what I have been doing...

Filter bracket band made

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Doors partially re-skinned

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Started on window frames

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trial fitted

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window rubbers found,

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these fit nicely into the frame to take 6.4mm laminated glass. The strip fits in the groove at the bottom of the frame.

 

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Finally got round to welding on the rear chassis extension pieces that had been chooped off in the past.

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Just need to chop them to the correct length and work out where the holes need to be drilled

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Also, soes anyone have a pair of rear rope eyes that bolt onto the underside of these extension pieces ?

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More work o the cab...

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and door furniture made

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now have two door handles, thank to Peter (peter75) , one needed a bit of work to extend the shaft as this was cut short at some time (could really do with another decent one at the handle is rather scruffy

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Making slow progress...

Doors now skinned

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Back to working in the engine tommorrow

  • Like 1

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FANTASTC WORK ..!  :bow:     Just wondered how did you fold form the bottom edge and curve please?

 

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Andy

At the bottom of the doors, there is a metal strip that sits proud of the woodwork (not very clear in the photo).

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When the door skin is in place, the skin is trimmed to be about ½” proud of this metal strip. Clamp the strip to the door skin and gently tap round eventually forming a nice curve that is at right angle to the metal strip, now take it just past the right angle.  The trick is to do it bend it a bit at a time, right the way round the door as you have shrink the metal around the curve. After you have done this turn the door over and gently tap it into place using the same technique as above. Finally with a suitable dolly knock it flat so the metal strip is squeezed inside the folded door skin. The inside now looks like this.

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Similar techniques are used to produce, the heat shield plate.

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In all cases I have used 1mm sheet steel, this can be formed fairly easily, 1.2mm steel is s lot lot harder (surprising what 0.2mm thickness makes. Also the smaller the radius the harder it is to fold nicely.

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Realise I haven’t posted for a bit.

So a quick update....

Trial fitting of cab

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IMG_4580.thumb.JPG.a6c05f1bd73e3b70fdbaceb2ae0695bb.JPGRefurbing the radiator

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Making loads of bits

Bonnet repair hinge

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Hoop sticks

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Trying to work out how to make sharp radius bends and tilt brackets  (see photo below). I don’t suppose that anyone has any spare of these (I believe they are the same on morris’s)

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Repairing front panel more work on the engine

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Also  making the drivers adjustable seat, the one on the left I borrowed from Pete Marshall as a pattern

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Still looking for the pumps and filters

  • Thanks 1

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Great to see more progress on the truck, looks like the cab is really coming together 👍

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