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64EK26

Bedford MWC restoration

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Hi

 

I have wanted to restore an MW for a long time, so I finally took the plunge an bought an MWC that needs a lot of tlc. I know that it will take me a few years to complete it.......

 

She is now tucked up in where not far from where I live and will able to take bits back home to work on them.

 

IMG_1761.jpg

 

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Cheers

Richard

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Hello.

 

Don't know if you are missing the two doors on your water tank but I will have 4 old water tanks in .

 

Guy

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Sat down and started looking at the instrument panel.

 

IMG_1762.jpg

 

The Speedo isn’t correct but the other two instruments are as per the manual I have albeit they were in the wrong holes.

 

Instument Panel.jpg

 

The panel had been covered over with a green type cloth, removing this revealed the holes for the data plate and the inspection light sockets.

 

IMG_1763r.jpg

 

I think that the data plate should be as shown below (It was missing so need to get one, list get bigger and bigger...)

 

VIN Plate.jpg

 

What does puzzle me is the four small holes to the right of the inspection light sockets

 

IMG_1764.jpg

I was expecting to find a hole for the stop light switch (any ideas what should go here ?)

 

Just as an aside, the lighting switch had been incorrectly re-assembled at some time so that the switch would never give the right outputs to the lights. I have seen this before on Austin Champ switches, and is because the backing to the switch section is not keyed and can be put back in two ways.

 

 

Off to the shed tomorrow to have a good look over her and play hunt the chassis number etc...

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Those four small holes are not original to me. But look at the back if the four small holes have some burrs, if so, they were drilled afterwards.

 

Danny

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Off to the shed tomorrow to have a good look over her and play hunt the chassis number etc...

 

Chassis number is by the passenger side step brackets.

 

David

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Hi

 

I have wanted to restore an MW for a long time, so I finally took the plunge an bought an MWC that needs a lot of tlc. I know that it will take me a few years to complete it.......

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122159[/ATTACH]

Cheers

Richard

 

Hi Richard

I know where there is a spare tank, with doors, available for sale in Norfolk. They also has a set of brass instruction plates still fitted to the rear doors. PM me if you are interested and I will put you in touch with the owner.

 

Cheers

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Good day at the shed..

 

Engine Number is KM0/2131/SE

 

IMG_1776.jpg

 

Chassis Number is very difficult to read and is badly corroded bits can be read depending on the angle you look at it, the letter spacing is quite wide.

 

IMG_1799.jpg

 

The M&W are just about discernible, the C is clear followed by 560 (0 being rather faint) last digit looks like 8, so chassis number is something like MWC560??8

 

Any idea what font the stamping is so I can attempt to digitally enhance the photos I have taken, or any other tips on making the numbers clearer would be good. Also any info on serial numbers so I can better date the MWC

 

Engine turns fairly freely, the gearbox is seized and is now off the truck and in my shed at home so it can be worked on. Possibly gear selector rods stuck, as output turn freely, but input does not turn.

 

Starter motor turns freely but did not want to spin up, possible the switch contacts at the back will see..

 

Fuel pump is also on the bench for refurb

 

One thing I did notice there is a piece missing from the bottom of the bell housing, is this a thin sheet protective cover ?

 

IMG_1781.jpg

 

Going back to the instrument panel, there is some corrosion around the four drilled holes and this is similar to the other holes, so can’t really tell if it’s original or not

IMG_1801.jpg

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if as your say your chassis number starts 560? that would make its build date 1944

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Hello.

 

Do you have a PTO on the gearbox are is there a compressor fitted on the side of the gearbox. So a MW gearbox from a friend his project and it had a PTO to drive a pump I presume. his MW was a C (water type ).

 

Guy

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Had a look at the starter motor. The On/Off switch was jammed, now all free so ready for testing

 

Brought the gearbox inside...

 

It doesn’t have an air compressor fitted. Will need to look for one as I think it should be fitted, but it will run without one.

 

The box had no oil in it :shocked: and must have been subjected to a bit of damp a bit of damp. So the Yokes wouldn’t move on the shafts

 

IMG_1811.jpg

 

And the gears in the box would not slide up the splined shafts.

 

IMG_1813.jpg

 

Plenty of penetrating oil and a gentle bit of persuasion, all are now free. There is minimal corrosion on the gears and they don’t look too bad (have seen a lot worse). The yoke rods have all been cleaned up although there is some visible corrosion on these, the yokes now slide freely and if kept well oiled and use should be OK.

 

IMG_1825.jpg

 

Only one yoke is significantly worn

 

IMG_1826.jpg

 

The gear selector trap is worn. I am considering drilling out the rivets that hold the trap and replacing them with set screws (as it will be easier ro clean and refurb if necessary)

 

IMG_1829.jpg

 

likewise the two pegs (think that these are just bashed in) that hold the ball of the stick in place

 

IMG_1830.jpg

 

I will re-assemble over the week end and check all gears can be selected. I will then re-strip the box, replace the bearings if necessary.

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Had a look at the starter motor. The On/Off switch was jammed, now all free so ready for testing

 

Brought the gearbox inside...

 

It doesn’t have an air compressor fitted. Will need to look for one as I think it should be fitted, but it will run without one.

 

The box had no oil in it :shocked: and must have been subjected to a bit of damp a bit of damp. So the Yokes wouldn’t move on the shafts

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122243[/ATTACH]

 

And the gears in the box would not slide up the splined shafts.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122244[/ATTACH]

 

Plenty of penetrating oil and a gentle bit of persuasion, all are now free. There is minimal corrosion on the gears and they don’t look too bad (have seen a lot worse). The yoke rods have all been cleaned up although there is some visible corrosion on these, the yokes now slide freely and if kept well oiled and use should be OK.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122245[/ATTACH]

 

Only one yoke is significantly worn

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122246[/ATTACH]

 

The gear selector trap is worn. I am considering drilling out the rivets that hold the trap and replacing them with set screws (as it will be easier ro clean and refurb if necessary)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122247[/ATTACH]

 

likewise the two pegs (think that these are just bashed in) that hold the ball of the stick in place

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122248[/ATTACH]

 

I will re-assemble over the week end and check all gears can be selected. I will then re-strip the box, replace the bearings if necessary.

 

 

DO NOT DRILL OUT THE TWO PEGS HOLDING THE GEAR LEVER INTO THE GEAR BOX TOP OVER .......there is no need to do this......the spherical tin shield is held in place with a bayonet fitting type arrangement......the tin shield will press down( there is a spring under the tin shield) and rotate and come out like a light bayonet light bulb fitting !!!!!!!

 

Regards Andy

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DO NOT DRILL OUT THE TWO PEGS HOLDING THE GEAR LEVER INTO THE GEAR BOX TOP OVER .......there is no need to do this......the spherical tin shield is held in place with a bayonet fitting type arrangement......the tin shield will press down( there is a spring under the tin shield) and rotate and come out like a bayonet light bulb fitting !!!!!!!

 

Your gears look in fantastic condition ....way better than mine....:cry:

I may have in the shed a spare cover for the flywheel that you seem to be missing if your interested and windscreen parts ?

 

Regards Andy

Edited by andy1960

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Thanks Andy. I thought I must be missing something....

 

End of gear lever quite worn, will see if I can select gears over the week end when I loosely re-assemble

 

IMG_1831.jpg

 

IMG_1833.jpg

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Hi Richard

I know where there is a spare tank, with doors, available for sale in Norfolk. They also has a set of brass instruction plates still fitted to the rear doors. PM me if you are interested and I will put you in touch with the owner.

 

Cheers

 

 

Richard,

You didnt reply or comment.

So I take it you have rear doors and brass instruction plates?

These are what I am referring to, and are located in West Norfolk/Suffolk border. Ideally the owner wants to sell whole tank, but you may be able to just buy the doors:

 

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Hello. How much do you think your friend would want for the tank? Regards John.

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Hello. How much do you think your friend would want for the tank? Regards John.

 

I saw this tank when I went to collect another item I had bought from on Ebay.

 

The ebay seller said he was thinking of about £200 for the complete tank (mounted on an agric trailer chassis). He knows what it is, but would like to see it used again...so may be open to offers.

 

If anyone is interested, please PM me with your contact phone number and I will forward to him.

 

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64EK26 I have the must have accessory for your MW ;) its the 200gallon spanner.

I won a 180 & 200 gallon spanner on ebay a year or 2 back & I know John also found a 180 gallon spanner at an auto jumble about the same time.

A few weeks back I found & won a second 200gallon spanner just incase someone need it, PM me if interested.

Regards Ian

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If my brother was driving, I used to reach down and push and twist the gear lever retainer and lift out the gear lever. Then casually offer him the gear lever and ask if he had any use for it. Got him every time, minor nuclear explosion. I thought better of it if father was driving.

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Slow progress this week..

 

Had to make a special tool to get the gear selector forks back on. Retaining the ball bearing and spring whilst sliding the guide rail through it is virtually impossible without it.

 

IMG_1850.jpg

 

Can selecet 1,2,3,&4 but not reverse, I think that this is due to the catch mechanisim at the base of the gear lever.

 

Please could someone post a photo of what the base of the gear lever should look like on a box that is working

 

The gear box is a in a partially dissassembled state as there is a lot of play in the lay shaft, so will be changing the bearings, once I have workrd out exactly what they are and have got a sitable replacement.

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Hi Richard

There's some pics of my box in pieces on page 9 of my resto blog, good progress on your resto by the way.

 

RR.

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Been looking at fuel pump and gearbox and other bits needed to get the engine running...

 

I was pleasantly surprised that the diaphragm and valves are the same as that on my Series Land Rover. So no problem getting parts :-)

 

IMG_1863.jpg

 

Finally got the gear box apart. The rear layshaft bearing will need replacing as well as the shaft re-grinding. So now looking for some suitable roller bearings.

 

 

IMG_1867.jpg

 

Also been looking at what other bits I will need to get a running engine...

 

Air Filter Parts Wanted.jpg

 

Also any ideas where you can get bypass oil filters ?

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Chris morter sells a lookalike oil filter containing a modern cartridge that can easily be replaced at minimal cost. I have one fitted on my engine and it looks identical to the original.

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Gearbox casing all cleaned up ready for painting, all shaftts, gears etc all cleaned up. Just waiting for a bearing to arrive before re-assembly.

 

The gates on gearbox selector aren't at all bad

 

IMG_1874.jpg

 

A NOS gearstick from Chris Morter should solve the problem of selecting reverse gear.

 

Had a look at the Luvax shock absorbers, (only have 3) , but which three have I got ?

 

LUVAX-all.jpg

 

(Images not to scale)

 

Up to the shed at the week end to see if I can get the wheel nuts off and have a good look at the axles.

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The photo of luvax-2 is for the front luvax-3 is like my rear ones.I have just had some new rubber bushes made and have a few sets spare ( 8 set ) which is a full set if anyone is interested,

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