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johann morris

Panzer 2 turret

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Thanks for the offer Eddy, I will keep it in mind. I have to make a decision on which way to approach the final drives, as this will dictate the drive chain between the gearbox and steering box. What ever I decide I anticipate having to have a reduction box between the two so I am not sure whether any of the original 430 series components will be of use. However, I will need the drive shafts and couplers that run between the  final drives and the steering box, even if they have been snapped.

Jon

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no worries i'll dig them out tomorrow and put up a pic, if you need them you can have them in exchange for a crate of foster's :)

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if i had a pound for everytime someone said that to me, i'd still be skint :)

 

if i can help out i will and good for you for taking on such an ambitious project and making it happen. not many about that could do it, myself included

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Posted (edited)

Would these tracks have been of any use? I wonder where they got them. A quote from their page from 2 weeks ago "from the foundry, with our models and machined by us."

 

panzer 1 tracks facebook.jpg

Edited by rolling-thunder

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A fantastic result from the outside, I wonder if the inside will be the same. Unlike my project, it looks like theirs is a  "money is no object" project.

The tracks are very nice but different to a Panzer II. If I could afford it, that's the one component that I would spend money on.

 

jon

   

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Evening All,

 

And back to reality. The cooling unit is complete, although quality control, the wife, has questioned my  decision  of not welding every join. It all fits ok as does the drive belt. I will now have to make the tensioner.

DSC05631.thumb.JPG.d832ed397e5c7cc1bd3e45845a5e88b0.JPG  DSC05632.thumb.JPG.fd60282acad013c796270fde4131f729.JPG  DSC05633.thumb.JPG.c183d8e57141dd029cd970272a03947c.JPG

next on the list was the exhaust which entailed replacing the stripped manifold studs. Out of the three that needed replacing, one came out ok, the others had to be drilled out and re-tapped. 

DSC05638.thumb.JPG.bec0f0cce04449322b8763e56344c2a6.JPG  DSC05635.thumb.JPG.890f84d0c7e300fa5ded67c650bd0951.JPG  DSC05636.thumb.JPG.e03a6f81745770d1f28fdf2e21e70878.JPG

I centre popped the broken stud, drilled it with a 5mm drill before opening it out to 8.5mm and re-tapping the hole to 3/8" UNF.

DSC05639.thumb.JPG.bc0d515a7ebbe636bca5d918d6c6da60.JPG  DSC05640.thumb.JPG.9c419af070baa99c49323d2e18ddc8ca.JPG

I haven't got any of the original components for the exhaust, so I am making it from scratch, although I will be using flexi pipe to join the manifold to the silencer. First I needed to make two flanges to suit the manifolds. I marked around the manifold flange and then cut the flange out with an angle grinder and ground it to shape.

DSC05642.thumb.JPG.acb2f34de73d44949114797045fa76ad.JPG  DSC05641.thumb.JPG.f2ddf043b7d2d15c80a1917ac78c64b9.JPG   DSC05643.thumb.JPG.024b96a6acba59544575ae8b6156f8e5.JPG

The bolts are there until the correct studs turn up.

DSC05644.thumb.JPG.8efa19071ff396112b11de64979eda16.JPG  DSC05645.thumb.JPG.326f1a744ac74f258ba32c8d5dec70ec.JPG

Then on to the exhaust pipe. I am using sections from a cut up Land Rover exhaust as these are the cheapest source of material.

DSC05646.thumb.JPG.70c89f60efeba984f45597e01a43d962.JPG  DSC05649.thumb.JPG.c556ef3555556ca25cbf388c484c8079.JPG

 

That's all for tonight folks.

 

Jon

 

 

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Evening All,

The two into one manifold is all welded up and ready to be assembled onto the exhaust manifold.  The cooling unit now looks more like an air conditioning unit and I have completed the airflow tract around the rear of the engine bay.

DSC05650.thumb.JPG.070b1485b8a92dc488ef6715ddf7987f.JPG  DSC05651.thumb.JPG.dfc3bb1b21cc9192e2823bc3c08a185e.JPG DSC05652.thumb.JPG.7ae52611946764a9a41af5810f47fe22.JPG

DSC05653.thumb.JPG.da7e7ac7484622f3f52e225e4566add5.JPG DSC05654.thumb.JPG.e1fb82113b68bbce98f680dd6c39ed99.JPG  DSC05655.thumb.JPG.2921e4520181a024a052319204a0ca79.JPG

 

To complete the exhaust I need a silencer, here goes, although silent probably won't be the word.

DSC05658.thumb.JPG.eccc1606875c4580eb69d67a382d5fa3.JPG   DSC05659.thumb.JPG.a9d59c12d1ec95406e9244ce3e967e5b.JPG  DSC05660.thumb.JPG.ed2f2bbfadc0cdb824fb81b1df6feba4.JPG

 

Jon

 

 

 

 

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Again amazed by the workmanship in creating this. Hopefully I'll see it driving some day, would love to see and hear it..

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jon these are muff couplings and propshaft for your steering box, at least i think they are, if memory serves me right.( it's been a long time since i messed around with 432 series)

 

IMG_20190417_120306.jpg

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Evening All,

I think that all these pictures are overloading the system, as it keeps playing silly buggers.

However, on to more important issues.

One finished exhaust silencer.

DSC05662.thumb.JPG.bfea43506cf0e8f749e27d825f4ccee3.JPG DSC05663.thumb.JPG.7ff58abbba415a71d1dfe159574d52fc.JPG

I have been  having problems finding information and pictures of the silencer retaining brackets, the Tank Museums Panzer II is a later model, so the silencer is different. Armed with the information that I do have and some artistic licence this is what I have come up with.

DSC05664.thumb.JPG.699563f45c71cef4097e83cc8c2e1ef5.JPG DSC05665.thumb.JPG.f7cd3db5a5fa57064193e960e0e870e1.JPG  DSC05666.thumb.JPG.e28689aa88669e72807570167d9c9b25.JPG

DSC05667.thumb.JPG.e9d4ca92b117f7a4d18f3cd89bd3ad24.JPG  DSC05668.thumb.JPG.600c75dcd4b0ca32afa550c541b411c5.JPG  DSC05669.thumb.JPG.c2fa532135ceb8ee6808dad7535c245a.JPG

 

DSC05670.thumb.JPG.53fa4d340fa39fb63d13af562cfada8b.JPG

 

On the original tank, where the exhaust exits the hull, there is an armoured cover.

388729027_P1170195kop9(2).jpg.0d997dfba3f32d3503bd6b36c8818e09.jpg

This is my version.

DSC05671.thumb.JPG.c948e2744ad8f336a83ddaaceaac8b1b.JPG  DSC05672.thumb.JPG.44579cdeed80989d1b5dab2011492898.JPG DSC05673.thumb.JPG.58655eefd29237d84aaf90b4cf7cbc91.JPG

 

DSC05675.thumb.JPG.b01b042b07de4deb356f0d32f6c4dc27.JPG  DSC05676.thumb.JPG.1c2d44394598b2b342ab51e50ba4bbbd.JPG  DSC05677.thumb.JPG.8e83ef3e22d09dd009eebc0888a47b5b.JPG

DSC05678.thumb.JPG.ea716acdd8854e25adc8c005e7322161.JPG  DSC05679.thumb.JPG.5f72a8e3a6cc1313700b8792ab393514.JPG

Over the silencer there should be a heat shield, I have looked at loads of pictures and the variation of the hole configurations seems to be quite varied, so I have settled on this one. In total, 568 holes to drill, bugger.

DSC05680.thumb.JPG.a566f47de32e46f069e2ea8c60b0438f.JPG  DSC05681.thumb.JPG.8fb73e3f0fde0026a3b2cf8d3ac7c0ae.JPG  DSC05683.thumb.JPG.818023e5563d1a0349eac293fe1eb1e6.JPG

 

And I am not quite finished drilling holes yet.

 

Jon

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1 hour ago, johann morris said:

Evening All,

I think that all these pictures are overloading the system, as it keeps playing silly buggers.

However, on to more important issues.

One finished exhaust silencer.

DSC05662.thumb.JPG.bfea43506cf0e8f749e27d825f4ccee3.JPG DSC05663.thumb.JPG.7ff58abbba415a71d1dfe159574d52fc.JPG

I have been  having problems finding information and pictures of the silencer retaining brackets, the Tank Museums Panzer II is a later model, so the silencer is different. Armed with the information that I do have and some artistic licence this is what I have come up with.

DSC05664.thumb.JPG.699563f45c71cef4097e83cc8c2e1ef5.JPG DSC05665.thumb.JPG.f7cd3db5a5fa57064193e960e0e870e1.JPG  DSC05666.thumb.JPG.e28689aa88669e72807570167d9c9b25.JPG

DSC05667.thumb.JPG.e9d4ca92b117f7a4d18f3cd89bd3ad24.JPG  DSC05668.thumb.JPG.600c75dcd4b0ca32afa550c541b411c5.JPG  DSC05669.thumb.JPG.c2fa532135ceb8ee6808dad7535c245a.JPG

 

DSC05670.thumb.JPG.53fa4d340fa39fb63d13af562cfada8b.JPG

 

On the original tank, where the exhaust exits the hull, there is an armoured cover.

388729027_P1170195kop9(2).jpg.0d997dfba3f32d3503bd6b36c8818e09.jpg

This is my version.

DSC05671.thumb.JPG.c948e2744ad8f336a83ddaaceaac8b1b.JPG  DSC05672.thumb.JPG.44579cdeed80989d1b5dab2011492898.JPG DSC05673.thumb.JPG.58655eefd29237d84aaf90b4cf7cbc91.JPG

 

DSC05675.thumb.JPG.b01b042b07de4deb356f0d32f6c4dc27.JPG  DSC05676.thumb.JPG.1c2d44394598b2b342ab51e50ba4bbbd.JPG  DSC05677.thumb.JPG.8e83ef3e22d09dd009eebc0888a47b5b.JPG

DSC05678.thumb.JPG.ea716acdd8854e25adc8c005e7322161.JPG  DSC05679.thumb.JPG.5f72a8e3a6cc1313700b8792ab393514.JPG

Over the silencer there should be a heat shield, I have looked at loads of pictures and the variation of the hole configurations seems to be quite varied, so I have settled on this one. In total, 568 holes to drill, bugger.

DSC05680.thumb.JPG.a566f47de32e46f069e2ea8c60b0438f.JPG  DSC05681.thumb.JPG.8fb73e3f0fde0026a3b2cf8d3ac7c0ae.JPG  DSC05683.thumb.JPG.818023e5563d1a0349eac293fe1eb1e6.JPG

 

And I am not quite finished drilling holes yet.

 

Jon

Bet you wish your mill was CNC!

 

 

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Brilliant Jon!  I love following this build and look forward to every new post!

-Tom

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Those holes were drilled by hand on a very old Medings pillar drill that my Father and I went halves on, it cost a whole £10.00. Every time I use that drill I think of my father.

 

Jon

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Thanks lowfat and tapper02.

It's been such a lovely day that I have been gardening so only one picture today.

DSC05684.thumb.JPG.dc7ad6cb964ad00d36ef559696fb030f.JPG

 

Jon

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Posted (edited)

Evening All,

In truth not much to show you but it's taken longer than I would have expected.

The fan belt tensioner pully, bought as a standard pulley and then bored out to suit the bearing.

DSC05688.thumb.JPG.6f360357c3ebd6e2f7925d7494123871.JPG

The fan belt tensioner in place. I had intended to tension the belt upwards but the distributer was in the way, so I had to modify my ideas and tension it  downwards.

DSC05697.thumb.JPG.6ad5b020901615b9500f970afda324f3.JPG

I am surprised that no one has mentioned that the fan that I have shown in the past, would be rotating in the wrong direction, well, it was only there to test the theory. I couldn't find a steel fan that rotated in the correct direction in the UK, so I had to import one.

DSC05694.thumb.JPG.b7200bbf1b558fe8451d2f331ce36c58.JPG

 

All the cooling pipes are now in place.

DSC05698.thumb.JPG.b71d3d293d1b6952da6d8e1dba1c31ec.JPG

And finally I needed two adapters for the engine oil cooler, I couldn't find anything, so as usual, I made them.

DSC05700.thumb.JPG.904ce340660ebf2128957de2283ed200.JPG  DSC05701.thumb.JPG.e6e04408e7f1fee06ff20d1b42fe5a70.JPG

Then a small set back occurred...……………...

 

 

 

Edited by johann morris
needed editing
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On ‎4‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 10:04 PM, johann morris said:

Then a small set back occurred...……………...

 

 

 

Ah come on....don't leave us hanging like that...

What happened?

-Meteor strike

-Flooding

-The Fluffy Duckling apocalypse?

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None of those, however I can confirm that the fluffy ducklings are still on the pond and seem happy. It's the flipping engine.

If you go back to the beginning, you will find that I had intended to use a Land Rover 300 TDI engine but others seemed to think that a straight six would be a better idea and to be honest, I would prefer a petrol. I did a bit of research and the Jag 6 cylinder seemed ok, I contacted a classic car specialist who seemed to know what he was talking about and all seemed well. I purchased a 1986 engine and ecu and made everything to suit, hours of work. At last on Monday it was time to sort the electrics and hopefully this week brrrm brrrm. As I studied the wiring components and the associated wiring diagrams I realised that the ecu wasn't the correct one for that engine, further more the wiring loom that they had supplied was incorrect for the engine and the ecu, so I have a selection of random bits. The wiring loom, I could cope with, as long as I have the correct ecu plugs but there is no way the engine and ecu are going to communicate when the ecu requires a multitude of sensors that the older engine hasn't got. The easy way would be to get another ecu to suit the engine but I cant find one and my original supplier hasn't got one. After talking to the supplier he has suggested that he sends me a latter engine which seems ok, as long as all the belt pulleys line up or I am into another load of work. But and here's my biggest concern, will a latter model have a anti theft detection in the ecu and if so……………..

Why oh why didn't I stick to the 300tdi.

 

Really fed up and pissed off,

 

Jon

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Posted (edited)

I cant believe that the solution is a different engine for the sake of an ecu.. that is barmy

have a look here https://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d47.html

Id be bloody annoyed if a package bought from a specialist was completely wrong.. furious in fact

Edited by lowfat

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Actually, I am more disappointed at the moment but having exchanged emails with the supplier, he assures me that there will not be an issue. Being a bit old fashioned, I still have some faith in people and I hope that it will all be sorted out in the near future.

Looking on the positive side, it gives me time to make some of the other components that I will need, such as the fuel tank.

 

Jon

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Posted (edited)

The other way is to go old school back to carb and points ,this is how I fitted my Munga with a Nissan 16v twin cam.

20170706_230909.jpg

20190106_130429.jpg

20190106_130423.jpg

20171212_224930.jpg

Edited by mogmaner
Autocorrect

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ECU’s and modern electronics, the bane of any vehicle builder!

go old school, no electronics . . . . Points, condenser can be changed to electronics if need be, but problems with ECU’s, modules and plug n plays. 

Plenty of old school 6 cylinders out there if needed 

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