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steph1960

Triumph 3HW

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Hi all

I have recently acquired a Triumph 3HW that I intend to re paint and use pretty much as it is. I have some questions that I hope someone can answer for me please.

 

The frame number is 49820 and the engine number is 59820, the TEC reference is 944. looking at the contract details in the British Forces Motorcycles 1925-45 book I calculate the serial number to be C5570320, can someone confirm/deny this please?

 

On the 1944 model was the front brake operated by cable throughout or part cable part rod, mine has a cable throughout?

 

What type of horn button and dipswitch was fitted to this model, mine has a combined horn button/dip switch?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

Steve

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I would concur with your calculation for frame TL49820 as C5570320. TEC 944 = Triumph Engineering Co. Sept 1944. It's from the same contract as my own.

 

These last few contracts reverted from 1" to 7/8" handlebars with no steering damper and all had a front brake rod. No dip switch fitted and the standard Lucas horn push on the throttle side. Ron

3HW 233.jpg

3HW 235.jpg

3HW 250.jpg

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Thanks Ron

Nice looking bike and in the colours I am going to proceed with too. I see your oil pump cover is painted is this tin or alloy, the casings on mine are alloy?

 

Looks like I need to source or make a brake rod then. My bars are 1" and have the steering damper, do you think it is possible that this is correct?

 

I have the Volkes filter but don't have the elbow to the filter so something else I will need to source. I think my best plan is to get the paintwork done and back into use, then I can fine tune the details while riding it.

 

Thanks for your help, no doubt I will have more questions as the project progresses.

 

Regards

Steve

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Yes Steve the oil pump cover should be tin (also the primary cases).

 

Your forks should be 'Webb' as opposed to Triumph's own. In the interest of economy at this period there was a mild attempt at some standardisation, ie the 7/8" bars and Amal levers. The air and mag levers are listed in the parts list for our contract as the type with the 'two' screw clamps. Whereas the earlier 1" bars had the pivot clamp type (with one fixing screw).

 

Maybe your top yoke is off an earlier bike to take the 1" bar and I guess a steering damper could be retro fitted. It's all far better than the later stuff anyway. I also have a 1940 3SW which has all the earlier (nicer) features so it gives me a Triumph example from both ends of the war. Artistic licence prevails and there is always the " could have happened in a REME workshop" clause.

 

The Vokes elbows are extremely hard to find. I've got one original in my collection and two repros. I did get a small batch cast a couple of years ago, but the whole thing was a pain in the arse, so nothing I want to repeat. (here's one of them on my 3HW).

 

Also an excerpt from the parts list that covers our 44 bikes.

 

JJ Cables make a nice quality brake rod but it's from their standardised range and is not quite right.

 

http://www.motorcyclewebsite.com/j-j-cables-ltd

 

Ron

3HW 225.jpg

scan-161220-0001.jpg

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Thanks Ron

Plenty to think about, the bike works fine in its present guise so I think I will do the paint and let the other jobs progress as and when parts turn up. I would imagine the aluminium casing conversion was a popular mod in an attempt to keep some oil in and I quite like the steering damper anyway. As you say Artistic Licence.

 

Regards

Steve

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If you PM me with your email address, I can put you in contact with a guy who can make you an exact copy of the front brake rod....In stainless steel. Ron

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Hello Steve,Sorry to butt in on your thread but I also have a 3HW that Ron knows well and I wondered if you have 3SW front forks as I have because I have a damper knob and 1" handlebar clamps. mine is 10 44. hopefully I have posted a photo of my bike and it would be nice to see another 3HW about. regards Ian

WP_20150704_14_20_28_Pro.jpg

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Hi Ian good to see your bike on here. 3HW's with Webb forks had 1" bars and a steering damper to start with. It was just the last 3 contacts that reverted to 7/8" bars along with other economy and standardisation measures. Ron

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Thanks for that Ron, I have just realised that photo was taken before you sorted it for me as it still has black push rod tubes, We are still down in NZ so I don't have all my photo's with me but its nice to keep in touch. regards Ian

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Posted (edited)

Having now stripped the bike for painting I have noticed that the 1" bars taper to 7/16" where the twist grip goes on, is this correct?

 

Also, the Burgess silencer has had the bracket cut off and is attached via a clamp strap, which is correct please?

 

Steve

Edited by steph1960

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Posted (edited)

Civilian Triumph handlebars were swaged down to 15/16" to accept the unique Triumph twist grip. Like this on ebay :-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-3TA-5TA-TR5-15-16-Twist-Grip-Assy-97-0697-H697-/370640429100?hash=item564be4202c:g:UpYAAOSwPhdU0LvW

 

The WD bars and Twistgrips were standard 1”, reverting to 7/8” for the last three contracts of 3HW’s.

Did you contact Brian about the brake rod? Whoever it was, he didn't get your phone number!

 

Ron

Edited by Ron

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Civilian Triumph handlebars were swaged down to 15/16" to accept the unique Triumph twist grip. Like this on ebay :-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-3TA-5TA-TR5-15-16-Twist-Grip-Assy-97-0697-H697-/370640429100?hash=item564be4202c:g:UpYAAOSwPhdU0LvW

 

The WD bars and Twistgrips were standard 1”, reverting to 7/8” for the last three contracts of 3HW’s.

Did you contact Brian about the brake rod? Whoever it was, he didn't get your phone number!

 

Ron

 

Thanks Ron

Yes I did contact Brian, I will call him again.

 

Thanks

Steve

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Hi All

Still working through the parts on my 3HW and have some more questions, if anyone has an answer or opinion I would be glad to hear from you.

 

What type of pillion seat would have been fitted from the factory?

Where can I get the press stud fastener that goes on the pannier frames to attach the pannier to, I have one missing?

 

Steve

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Hi All

Still working through the parts on my 3HW and have some more questions, if anyone has an answer or opinion I would be glad to hear from you.

 

What type of pillion seat would have been fitted from the factory?

Where can I get the press stud fastener that goes on the pannier frames to attach the pannier to, I have one missing?

 

Steve

I could do with some of those press studs as well ,so would be interested to know...Ron Pier got any suggestions? :-)

Andy B

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I don't have any pictures to show yet but the project is progressing well. Most of the parts are now painted and I will start the reassembly this week, I have already noticed something missing and that is the fork to mudguard fixings at the top, is there a bracket that wraps around the fork or should there be a bracket welded to the forks to take the bolt fixing? Any help or pictures would be appreciated.

 

I will post some pictures as things progress but in the meantime here is a picture of it before I started the strip down.

 

DSC_0175.jpg

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There is a 'P' clip each side on the rear tube of the forks. Typical to Triumph, it has a slot in it. The previous models with Triumph forks had a riveted on central fixing under the headlamp, but this was also backed up with the 'P' clips on the WD models. But these bikes had the clip on the front tube of the forks. Ron

3HW 256.jpg

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There is a 'P' clip each side on the rear tube of the forks. Typical to Triumph, it has a slot in it. The previous models with Triumph forks had a riveted on central fixing under the headlamp, but this was also backed up with the 'P' clips on the WD models. But these bikes had the clip on the front tube of the forks. Ron

 

Thanks Ron

That's a relief as the forks are painted, are these clips available do you know?

 

Steve

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I don't know for sure. I would first try 'Ace Classics' They seem to do odd stuff for Girder models. Otherwise it's a case of find the suitable size clip and then get the slot milled in. Ron

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I don't know for sure. I would first try 'Ace Classics' They seem to do odd stuff for Girder models. Otherwise it's a case of find the suitable size clip and then get the slot milled in. Ron

 

Thanks Ron, I have a small milling machine and there are some suitable P clips on Ebay so I will go for the DIY option.

 

Steve

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I don't have any pictures to show yet but the project is progressing well. Most of the parts are now painted and I will start the reassembly this week, I have already noticed something missing and that is the fork to mudguard fixings at the top, is there a bracket that wraps around the fork or should there be a bracket welded to the forks to take the bolt fixing? Any help or pictures would be appreciated.

 

I will post some pictures as things progress but in the meantime here is a picture of it before I started the strip down.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124060&stc=1

 

 

At long last assembly has started. Onwards and upwards.

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125157&stc=1

Reassembly part 1.jpg

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Did you put the bottom rear engine plate stud in place before you plopped the engine into the frame? Or like lots of others, try to fit it later!!! Ron

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Did you put the bottom rear engine plate stud in place before you plopped the engine into the frame? Or like lots of others, try to fit it later!!! Ron

 

Yes I did Ron, as you know this and one bolt on the primary side is all that can be fitted prior to attaching the engine plates. After I hade achieved this there was one thing that caused concern that I have yet to check out, is there a spacer tube in between the rear engine plates where the foot pegs go, if so, can I get it in at this point of assembly?

 

Steve

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I think you'll find that distance tube F2327 goes between the engine plates. You might have to slacken some engine plate nuts and slide it in from underneath. Ron

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I think you'll find that distance tube F2327 goes between the engine plates. You might have to slacken some engine plate nuts and slide it in from underneath. Ron

 

Thanks Ron, I seem to be missing that part but it looks like 3/4 tube so I will make one.

 

Steve

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