Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Jack

Roadsure Breakdown recovery - is now being testing by me :(

Recommended Posts

Did the recovery service come to a explanation for the wheel coming off ? did they pay for the full repairs or have a reliable outfit do the repairs? .

The posted pictures so far have been of the oblonged holes in the wheel hub ..... what of the damage to the wheel studs and nuts? I read you description of the joint and brake drum and its backing plate of those having been damaged , but you were not sure of the diff. and the rest.

My interest in asking the questions is that it could have happened to me or might in the future with my CCKW so I want to learn what to do to avoid having it happen again .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the recovery service come to a explanation for the wheel coming off

 

Its a problem with a suspended rear tow and left hand threaded wheel nuts i'm told that it generally only effects the taper seat type of nut not the more modern spigot mounted type

They should be checked before towing and again after 20 miles or so

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks

 

It might be a good idea for someone to list the vehicle types that could suffer the same fate as Jack's GMC - well at least a list of the most common MVs in preservation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not likely that anyone here has got one but I remember our threepenny bit cab Austin

(FG series) had lh threads & taper nuts .

 

Pretty sure our TK has them too

 

DM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not likely that anyone here has got one but I remember our threepenny bit cab Austin

(FG series) had lh threads & taper nuts .

 

Pretty sure our TK has them too

 

 

 

A TK would definitely have LH wheel nuts on the nearside (LH side). Most vehicles heavier than a car, with taper or cone ended nuts, were LH thread for LH side. This is to stop the nut coming loose. Now with the advent of nuts with face fit collars, they are universally RH thread all around. LH nuts are often identified by some sort of mark, sometimes it is a notch in the side of the flat or "L" stamped on them.

 

Another probable cause of the wheel coming loose would have been whether the wheels in touch with the road (fronts), were actually running dead straight, not easy to check, when lashing the steering wheel. If not, then there would have been a slight side load on the wheel rim causing it to flex at its centre and with the possibility of causing the nuts to loosen.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×