matchlesswdg3 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I had a problem with an old sealer coming away in lumps and cure was to remove it and then just leave the tank alone.......not sure why the tank had been sealed in the first place! If it does not leak, dont use sealer and if it does leak, then, if practical, get it repaired properly IMHO. That said, I have a tank that has an inherent design fault that encourages corrosion, especially with ethanol fuels that attract water. I got that welded up and then treated it with "Slosh" as the bike does not get much use. I had good reports on this stuff and everyone has reported it has worked OK over a couple of years so far since the new ethanol resistant formulation came in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 Thanks Ron & Ferg, Its first initial de rust has come up ok, most of the paint off now just the underneath, it looks like its had a few repairs on the bottom were there is band of filler, some parts have suffered on the surface but think its just down to poor prep on the last paint etc, no signs of any major filler so will plod on with the electrolysis then when happy all the old rust is broken down will beed blast. I only mentioned the liner/ sealer if it was required will know better when the inside is finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Sometimes it is not practical to get a tank welded up, say if the corrosion is in an awkward place, or maybe because its been patched and it is a bit fragile.....weeping seams, etc.. I think in this case, using a sealer is justifiable and from what I have heard so far, the new generation sealers do work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Although work started on the tank its been slow, after searching the War and Peace and coming back with a few bits but nothing Bike related, been looking for what should be the correct tail light.... anyone any pointers ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Yes the correct tail lamp for a war time G3L is the Lucas MCT1 (Fag End Lamp) without number plate. Of course nowadays we have to have a number plate for road use. My idea is to fit a period looking number plate with a period Lucas MT110 tail lamp. There are lots of repro's on ebay for about 20 quid and they come with a stop/tail bulb. You can also buy cheap repro fag end lights on ebay, but they're a bit cheap and nasty. I actually have both lamps on my G3L. My MCT1 is an original. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Thanks Ron, As normal fingers always on the pulse..... have seen a few on ebay, also seen a few variations on bikes at the W&P show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Having some free time continued with the tank, all going well until the vinegar started to eat the rust, a few weeps were brazed up but it was a continuing battle, I don't know what repair was done before as its got a weld all the way around as if it was two tanks joined together..... so the sealer option is the way to go, could kick myself as I missed out on a new tank on ebay yesterday. I looked at the sealer's available and have gone with POR15 tank sealer, ordered today so will continue with the outside and fill the places it needs (around the old weld) will get some pics tomorrow, I would of used the caswell but it was £58 and nearly £20 more for a colour sealer rather than clear. Bought a spare carb on ebay looks good and was missing the air slide, ordered the slide Wednesday and it arrived this morning so can fit this to the bike, just the lube oil pipe to make and fit and hope to get a start. Edited September 2, 2016 by bigduke6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) The pics regarding tank, the first is when it was in a bin full of water and used the electrolysis method of removing most of the rust etc, then the same process but just inside the tank Corrosion was bad on the top surface, but once cleanled up with flap wheel not too bad, can't say i enjoy the flap wheel but there was plenty of meat on the tank for any error. some pics showing some of the original welding and my brazing brazing and the underneath of the tank, you can see the pin holes near the brazing..... this was a bad area as the tank holes were brazed it was like painting the fourth bridge so decided on the tank sealer. waiting for this got the filler on and it got a coat of Hammerite Red Oxide primer at the end, this stuff I used on my phone box and it has stood the test of time, even some of the bits I had missed regarding rust on the phone box, the primer over time just had some black spots where the bad areas were, no change in anything but just the colour. The primer is the first coat it, a small area can be seen were the wet and dry was used, didn't go any further, as waited for the Por15 tank sealer to arrive...... I was sceptical but the product is good bit daunting also as its a half pint tin and you do wonder........ after the 96 hours it was tested and all was good, a sigh of releaf and can continue, although not a priority I will be on the look out for a spare tank, just a pity I missed the one on ebay recently..... Edited July 5, 2017 by bigduke6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 I don't know Matchless tanks but it wouldn't be correct to think that the upper surfaces of English motorcycle fuel tanks of this era were one-piece. The factories simply didn't have that sort of press tooling. Norton tanks are made of a top panel with the sides joined on along the top edge (with the multi-part base also)...As the war progressed, standards of finish and weld fettling dropped right off. ...Your tank is pretty badly corroded though...I think that I'd carry on looking for a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Hopefully your tank will do till you find a correct war time tank with pie crust cap. If you let me know the internal diam of your bayonet type filler neck, I'll check it against one of mine as I think I have a spare cap. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Hopefully your tank will do till you find a correct war time tank with pie crust cap. If you let me know the internal diam of your bayonet type filler neck, I'll check it against one of mine as I think I have a spare cap. Ron Thanks Ron, Thats the plan, will keep a look out, think the POR15 will hold out till then, have got the bayonet cap (to be honest prefer it to the pie crust type) have got two spare pie crust ones to O/H. Wanted list so far: Petrol Tank (any considered) Lucas Magneto end cover (the end cover which houses the advance/ retard cable) Push on/off fuel cocks Oil pipe to rocker box, (just pipe and fitting to make will do) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks Ron, Thats the plan, will keep a look out, think the POR15 will hold out till then, have got the bayonet cap (to be honest prefer it to the pie crust type) have got two spare pie crust ones to O/H. Wanted list so far: Petrol Tank (any considered) If you're not going down the historical accuracy route, I've got an NOS fibreglass Commando Hi-Rider tank on the shelf with flip-top cap. It would make the G3 look like a G80 Street Scrambler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks for the offer....... but the plan is to restore as accurate as can be. The bayonet cap tank is what was on the bike when I bought it, original or after it left service I don't know, Whatever is on the shelf in the stores is what's fitted, same as rifles etc even to this day, Maybe I should of said " one of the bottom three" in the link below regarding the tank........ http://www.matchlesswd.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/P15a-Petrol-tanks.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 After a bit of jury rigging, resetting the timing, a bit of paper wedged in the throttle to keep it secure on the handle bar, a flush of oil, stop the carb from flooding etc etc....... I got a start and runs like a swiss watch, needs a bit more on the advance and plenty of other things but grin factor was ear to ear......:-D main concern was the oil return which it eventually started........ probably only seconds but feels like minutes...... A busy winter ahead for shore but just wanted to hear it run....... few tweaks tomorrow, need to sort carb and attach new cable to air valve. Ron if your reading this paint on order...... synthetic, Matt Service Brown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Decals..... anyone tell me the best place for decals? I seen some on the internet that I purchased but there just glossy stickers? is this what to expect or are there ones more like transfers like the old air fix kits etc. They were a sheet of white decals apart from the tank M which are silver, its just the fact I'm doing the bike in matt and wasn't expecting shinny stickers, looking at other pics etc on the net they seem to blend in on the bikes they are on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Look for the old style "transfers" that you float off and apply as per the model kits. I get my transfers from the VMCC, which seem to be good quality. They cover a huge range of machines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 (edited) Or speak to Marcia at 'Classic Transfers' I've a feeling she supplies VMCC anyway. If you look at the website, it will quote such things as year of use for a particular transfer and WD etc. http://www.classictransfers.co.uk/ When I install a transfer, I paint over it with a soft small brush with mat or satin varnish to protect it from the weather. The transfer you see on my tank top in post #8 was commissioned from Marcia recently, after it was found to exist on original tanks and pictures. Ron Edited September 18, 2016 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Yes, its the same people......and order spares.......makes application less stressful! I use Halfords ethanol proof laquer to cover them, applied with a soft brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Thanks Ferg and Ron, will return the ones I bought and have a look at the ones you mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Things seem to on the up, got the refund for the decals, the paint I bought, I phoned the shop some time back and they said bring it in as the Matting agent may of seperated, took it back today so they could give it a mix and do a test strip, the test come out a sheen so they added some more agent. I ordered the book " British Forces Motorcycles 1925-45" about three months back, as there was still no sign I cancelled the order, on the off chance seen one on ebay a buy it now, which arrived today. Tried the paint and has come out perfect (although the light doesn't do it justice), whilst drying will be reading the new book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Nice application of SCC No.2 Brown...............so underrated in my opinion but the standard colour for most between mid-1942 and April 1944...............existing stocks of paint held by manufacturers had to be used up first but you can safely say that any British motorcycle dating from 1943 and well into 1944 was originally finished in brown rather than olive......... As Ron mentioned, I would thoroughly recommend "Classic Transfers"....................I use a matt-finish aerosol fuel-proof lacquer in a spray can intended for model aircraft use over my transfers...............it is good stuff !!!! Available from Swindon Model Centre, Theatre Square, Swindon, in either brush-on or spray can........semi and gloss finish available too, and the stuff becomes even more fuel-resistant with age............. Classic Transfers can also supply a pair of "C" numbers for several WD motorcycles in the correct font.........these are made on ultra-thin vynil on a backing paper for ease of application and they snug down perfectly on the tank..........after a coat of the appropriate varnish, they are identical to the painted-on type..................just give Marcia your "C" number and they do the rest............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks WD, must admit I can't say I was too keen on the colour itself but when it was mounted for an Inspection, I was more than impressed... few pics below, if anyone is looking at the wiring its only for photo purpose...... also the rear light ( think most will recognise it) there is a few shades of green on the bike, but the 2nd pic shows Nato green on the chain case, tomorrow begins the strip down for a total repair and repaint...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 Bike is now stripped have kept most bits together until I start on them (so don't have bits everywhere), I'm starting on frame then building it up from there, I have a few bushes etc to make, one question is regarding the studs for securing the battery box and oil tank, are they studs or a complete machined part brazed to the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 I'm quite sure they must be tapped holes with studs screwed in. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thanks Ron, thought I'd ask before rather than later...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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