restoration New project - Mk 1 Knocker 6x6

[ArtistsRifles]

In the words of Edmund Blackadder - Bugger!! Not to worry Rob - info was given in good faith :) Wonder how it affects Morris Minor owners??

 

Back to the drawing board! Anyone want to buy two sets of Moggie Minor rear winders??

Edited October 10, 2016 by ArtistsRifles

[Zero-Five-Two]

Quite! Polite words failed.

 

I am currently going through the return/refund process with ebay. I've no idea what the postage back to India will be, but hopefully I can get most of my money back. Then it is back to plan A, scanning the local breakers yards for a good second hand set.

[ArtistsRifles]

Quite! Polite words failed.

 

I am currently going through the return/refund process with ebay. I've no idea what the postage back to India will be, but hopefully I can get most of my money back. Then it is back to plan A, scanning the local breakers yards for a good second hand set.

 

Hmm - there's a thought.... I was just going to put them on back on ebay at cost but it might be worth trying the claims process as incorrectly described.

Then try one of the UK Morris Minor part supplier to dee if they have the correct type. Do you happen to have a photo of the Militant ones ? If so I can e-mail the various suppliers and see if they can match it.

[Zero-Five-Two]

Good to finally get to see round the old girl today, and a chance for a chat with yourself. Thought I would post the best of my photos on here then everyone can have a look. I'll stick a couple in the Militant Gallery as well.

 

 

 

 

 

She is certainly well worth saving, and getting back on the rally scene. The downside being she lives outside, and the weather is now against you, but if you can keep the tin worm at bay over the winter, then crack on with the repairs in the early spring, she'll look good for next season

[militant-nick]

Lovely motor

[ArtistsRifles]

That's certainly the plan Rob. Do some bits over winter as the weather allows - might so some of the bits that are needed in the living accommodation - gas needs to be checked by a certified fitter, white ceiling needs repainting as its flaking badly and it could do with a pair of bed couches being made up rather than using NATO cots.

Dash needs refurbishing and the cab roof heeds sorting as the paint is blistering/lifting.

 

Should keep me busy till spring

[ArtistsRifles]

Time for a minor update! Nothing much has happened in real terms as I had a couple of weeks holiday then had to gear up for the Cenotaph on my return - promptly followed by catching a stinking cold!!

 

However - on getting back from hols I've followed Robs example with the winders and contacted the eBay supplier to see what they can do. Not the fastest mob at responding to e-mails - kind of reminds me of dealing with East European suppliers!!

 

I've also been hunting around and found a sheet steel supplier who can sell me the size sheets I need to do the side panels of the cab - that size is the approx size of the individual panels as I have a very limited ability to handle large sheets of steel. Looks like being roughly £30 to £25 per sheet for the large ones like lower rear sides of the cab.

 

Wiring diagrams have been studies in preparation for basically replacing all the external wiring and cable sheathing - question currently is do I replace it all in white with cable markers or go for a conventional coulored loom.

 

And last and perhaps not least I also managed to acquire on of the seemingly uber-rare 1 gallon oil cans for the rear locker:

 

[Sean N]

And last and perhaps not least I also managed to acquire on of the seemingly uber-rare 1 gallon oil cans for the rear locker

 

I'd have to check, but I'm sure I have a quantity of those!

[ArtistsRifles]

I'd have to check, but I'm sure I have a quantity of those!

 

Now he tells me Get ready for the rush in ordering them if you have

[Sean N]

Now he tells me Get ready for the rush in ordering them if you have

 

I know, always the way. I was sure I'd mentioned them before, though in another thread. Perhaps it was just the smaller ones, which I also have.

 

I'll check what i've got next time I'm at the workshop.

[Zero-Five-Two]

Get ready for the rush in ordering them if you have

 

Can I rush in first then?

 

 

 

I presume we are talking about the little can that should live in this rack on my Tanker, if you do have a spare one Sean could you put my name on it, please. Many beer tokens would be available.

[ArtistsRifles]

Now the evil weather is here stopping any work on the cab skin its time to look at the cab interior- future plans there for. Past - and extensive - time spent in the cab i the cab of Knockers rumbling around the UK and Germany has taught 2 important lessons:

1) Its noisy!! Ear defenders are usually considered a must but then you cannot hear the navigator/co-driver.

 

Solution - fit an intercom system. Clansman ANR based it the ideal solution as its in keeping with the vehixle and everyone likely to be riding in the passenger seat is familiar with it.

 

2) Its a slow vehicle so getting hungry and thirsty whilst driving is a constant.

 

Solution - fit a BV in the back of the cab. To that end an RAK-15 unit is on order from evilbay together with its power lead. The latest issue type - RAK-15 -has low power auto-cutoff so if the voltage drops below, I think 22v it switches itself off. Andy from EMLRA has given me the drawing for the support cradle to make one up from 1.5mm mild steel

 

All this should mount nicely on a board - maybe MDF? -on the back of the cab supported by brackets from the bolts that hold the two cab halves together and braced off the upper storage shelves. If I use a Clansman 3-way fused power supply I can take a single tap off the existing electrical system to supply it and use:

1 fused point for the ANR Intercom system

1 fused point for the RAK-15 BV

1 fused point for the feed to the rear auxiliary power supply for the whirly beacon etc rather than the existing banana plug that fits in the inspection lamp socket.

 

I can do this at home so it is ready for the start of the working weather!!!

[Brooky]

Can I rush in first then?

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]120504[/ATTACH]

 

I presume we are talking about the little can that should live in this rack on my Tanker, if you do have a spare one Sean could you put my name on it, please. Many beer tokens would be available.

 

 

Yep think I have one of those cans

[David Herbert]

Sorry Neil, I think a Clansman 3 way power supply box might melt if you try to run a BV off it. Certainly the old type one in a 432 had its own very substantial socket on the main distribution box and you were told not to use it without the engine running.

 

David

[john1950]

Easiest thing to power is a truckers 24v microwave does everything f and d you want for a snack

[ArtistsRifles]

Sorry Neil, I think a Clansman 3 way power supply box might melt if you try to run a BV off it. Certainly the old type one in a 432 had its own very substantial socket on the main distribution box and you were told not to use it without the engine running.

 

David

 

I am using the new gen BV David, the RAK-15 which uses a 24v 15A supply. Should be within the limits of one of those 3-way units. If not - then I'll take a direct fused supply from the vehicles systems. The 3-way box is the neater option currently - but its all in the air at the moment as I said. First thing is to measure the width and height available for the mounting board and the nearest supply point on the vehicle relative to that.

I have a master I/O on the battery feed so wherever I take the power from must be after that I/O switch, current favourite idea is the distribution block that sits behind the drivers seat as that needs refurbishing anyway. Once it's all done I'll put the photos up of the complete installation.

[g0ozs]

Hi

 

The 3 way LT box certainly was ok running a 353 at about 12 amps on transmit so 15 amps for the BV isn't a big stretch especially if the other two sockets are drawing little current. The 4 LT way box is only a little bigger and has substantial bus bars inside and high current contacts on the input connector (more copper area than the 50A PSU output socket, to be sure). I can probably find you one if it helps.

 

I would be a little concerned about MDF if there is likely to be condensation in the cab or a substantial weight on it - my experience is that MDF deteriorates if damp and deforms under load. So plywood or hardwood planks probably a better bet for the shelf ?

 

Iain

[ArtistsRifles]

Cheers Iain. the 4 way is worth thinking about for sure for the added resilience. I must admit - I forgot that one existed.

 

Its not a shelf I am thinking of - but a back board that will stand vertically with the power supply unit, intercom boxes and BV cradle bolted to it. In turn the back board will be supported from the bolts that hold the cab halves together at the bas and either by fabricated brackets from the top shelf supports or alternatively and angle iron frame sitting on top of the cab join. The point on damp deterioration is well made though. I will have to see what space is available and thus the side of the board needed - that will determine whether its MDF, marine ply or hardwood. Either way it will be sealed and painted in DBG.

 

Power wise - the BV may be used in transit if there is a co-driver on longer trips, or in rest areas only depending on the nature/time taken of the trip so the power supply unit will need to cope with the 15A max draw from that PLUS the power draw from the intercom units themselves PLUS the current draw from the feed to the rear mounted rotating beacon/ LED's (what ever I use - anything dark green and moving at 30 flat out is a magnet for a rear end collision without anything). IF I use LED strobes then maybe 2 or 3 Amps for those too??

[Zero-Five-Two]

You might be better off changing the old dynamo for a modern alternator if you are going torun all that

[Sean N]

Neil, having come across similar applications in industry, I'd agree with Iain - it's likely that MDF will not put up with vibration and jolting even if the damp doesn't get it - I think the fixings are likely to tear out. If you are going to use wood, ply would be a much better bet; or you could consider a fabricated steel mount.

[ArtistsRifles]

You might be better off changing the old dynamo for a modern alternator if you are going to run all that

 

Funnily enough - that is a future project Rob. At the moment this will be enough and we can juggle outputs as required - i.e. no hot drinks at night if the rear board is powered up, maybe shutting down the intercom if the BV is on. Other consideration is the RAK-15 has two power settings so until it arrives and I can read the manual I don't know what the current draw is on the low power setting. Right now the whole thing is like juggling balls. Hopefully one catches them all as they land. It's as much a first for me as it is for the Militant

 

 

Neil, having come across similar applications in industry, I'd agree with Iain - it's likely that MDF will not put up with vibration and jolting even if the damp doesn't get it - I think the fixings are likely to tear out. If you are going to use wood, ply would be a much better bet; or you could consider a fabricated steel mount.

 

OK - advice gratefully accepted - MDF is out, ply it is. I did think about steel - but there's enough that rattles and vibrates in the Militant at 30 mph that it really doesn't need me adding to it

[Hutch3674]

Looking good Neil, so happy with my Milly (38EP19).

 

I enjoyed my trip home from County Carlow Ireland, 165 miles (No ear defence) to Omagh, I was actually wishing I had another 2 hours at the wheel. I was even happier when she passed MOT.

 

Good luck and thanks for your help so far.

 

Hutch

[lowfat]

BV on the stolly only works when the engine is running. Its quite a drain.

[ArtistsRifles]

Looking good Neil, so happy with my Milly (38EP19).

 

I enjoyed my trip home from County Carlow Ireland, 165 miles (No ear defence) to Omagh, I was actually wishing I had another 2 hours at the wheel. I was even happier when she passed MOT.

 

Good luck and thanks for your help so far.

 

Hutch

 

Glad to be of assistance - as far as it went Be nice one day maybe to have all the old girls together

I had a fortnight running around in Germany in one for around 12 to 14 hours a day - came home deaf for a week after cos I forget my ear defenders.

 

BV on the stolly only works when the engine is running. Its quite a drain.

 

Yes - mine was the same - they are the original grey BV's so very high drain. I have no idea what the operation/drain is on these new ones yet - again it requires reading the manual that comes with them. I am guessing they will still require the vehicle running to use - not a problem if making a brew of coffee whilst on the road. Apparently they heat up within 20 minute then retain heat for 6 hours so a single boil up will do for pretty much every journey its likely to do. Not going to be in constant use.

 

On the news front - heard tonight from Ray in Oz, he has the pallet now to pack up the A/A mounts on so hopefully soon I'll have an idea when they are arriving in the UK for those interested in the other 3.

And also heard from the Indian suppliers of window winders - they are sending another package which, I hope to god, should have the right type in. Probably means another £20+ demand from HMRC for VAT due. And I will have to claim the original payment back on the first package.

 

Things progress.

[armouredfarmer]

On the news front - heard tonight from Ray in Oz, he has the pallet now to pack up the A/A mounts on so hopefully soon I'll have an idea when they are arriving in the UK for those interested in the other 3.

And also heard from the Indian suppliers of window winders - they are sending another package which, I hope to god, should have the right type in. Probably means another £20+ demand from HMRC for VAT due. And I will have to claim the original payment back on the first package.

 

Things progress.

 

Definitely still interested in an AA mount Neil, Ive been trying to find a source for a suitable ball joint clamps to make up some struts so if anyone has any bright ideas please let me know.