Tamber Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 The compressor is currently on my workbench, having had the sump washed out with petrol to break up the sludge a bit more, and new oil put in it to circulate for a while to flush out any more lurking water/petrol/grot. I've also jet-washed the outsides to de-sludge the unit -- since it was spreading slime to everything it touched -- and will be aiming to do a bit more of a tear-down, in-depth inspection, and thorough cleaning over the weekend, if work doesn't get too crazy. It's amazing how much time it takes to get the compressor out of its hidey-hole! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted September 29, 2018 Author Share Posted September 29, 2018 Teardown time! Not pretty, but cleaned up pretty easily and there's no scoring in the bores. The check-valves all seem to work quite nicely, and I cleaned out the passageways as best as I could. One of the bolts holding the inlet manifold down has a pretty gacked thread, so I've got a tap on order to chase the threads in the head just to make sure, and I'll get some new bolts on order. (1/4" UNF, so nothing particularly exotic.) I also had to break up the remains of the filler cap, since it seemed to have bonded itself into the threads and was stubbornly refusing to rotate. (I'd drilled two holes through it so that I could use circlip pliers to try unwind it. It bent the circlip pliers, then the edges of the holes started to break up.) Very careful -- almost surgical -- chipping with a thin chisel, and picks... A tap for chasing the threads in the filler cap is also on its way. (1" 14TPI, as best I can tell.) Salvaged the dipstick, though! Should be able to re-use that in the new filler cap, with any luck. The wash-out with petrol, and new oil, got rid of a good bit of water and oil that was lurking in the passageways, and the bulk of the grot on the inside of the case. That's what was left in the sump. Also lurking there is the remains of the filler plug. Sludge vs Industrial Jetwash: Jetwash wins. Concerningly, the little relief valve on the oil pump looked like it was stuck open. It's also picked up a few fragments of the plastic filler knob after my previous precision removal process, but it was already showing signs of problems even before then. The back-side of the other part to this relief valve had a much older-looking deposit built up on it, and it was wedged open. It's a pretty clever little mechanism, this oil pump. The shaft of the eccentric is the pump piston, and it's hollow -- with a little brass orifice in the end -- so that the pressurised oil squirts up it and is forced into the crankshaft; the pressure relief is a flat plate over a drilling, held down by two little screws with springs, such that once the pressure reaches its limit, it lifts the plate and squirts out. Nice piece of design and engineering. Unfortunately, a combination of that contaminated oil and a completely-bypassing oil pump has not done the crankshaft or con-rods any good. I ran out of time today to investigate further, but there is discolouration on the crank, and the big end of the №1 rod is scored up pretty badly. I haven't removed the №2 rod yet, but I expect it to be more of the same. I will investigate further tomorrow. For now, I'll remain optimistic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attleej Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 Tamber, You have tried as hard as you can to recover the one that you have. I have got on that works if you would like to have it. John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 11 hours ago, attleej said: Tamber, You have tried as hard as you can Would suggest he's not finished trying yet. Whole thing looks like it could live again to fight another day. With a bit of patience and skilled engineering, it'll be good. Loved the bit in the vid, earlier on, pouring petrol straight down the carb to get it to run. You might need a better supply if you are planning a run out somewhere, perhaps a fairy liquid bottle. You can just squirt it in when you need to put your foot down 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted September 30, 2018 Author Share Posted September 30, 2018 11 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said: Would suggest he's not finished trying yet. Whole thing looks like it could live again to fight another day. With a bit of patience and skilled engineering, it'll be good. Yup, barely gotten started on it yet; this is just the tear-down to find out how bad it is. I do enjoy my suffering. 😁 I certainly don't think it's so far gone as to be irreparable. Certainly not by the standards of some members of this fine forum, who could probably rebuild it if all that was left was the broken filler cap! 😁 The other rod is as bad as the first, no great surprises there. I also cracked open the Drawer of Excessive Precision* for my micrometers and did a quick bit of measuring. The rod journals seem to be within the realm of cleaning up sufficiently with a bit of polishing; the big end bearings having taken the brunt of the damage as expected, being white metal. The machinists precision G-clamps gave me some numbers (I'm majority metric, so bear with me! 😁) : №1 rod journal: 22.22mm, №1 big end (vertical, i.e. in line with the rod): 22.5mm. Clearance of 0.28mm, or ~11thou. №2 rod journal: 22.3mm, №2 big end: 22.45mm. Clearance of ~0.15mm, or a midges under 6thou. Big ends are just a touch out of spec. I'll see what the crankshaft mics out to after I've polished the journals, I can live with it being a hair undersized so long as I can get the rods to match it. I still need to finish tearing the compressor down fully, measuring the bores and whatnot, but so far it looks otherwise to be pretty good. I'll just keep on keeping on, for now. (I also have a couple of weeks booked off work, in the hope that I can put some more time in on the Bedford; so naturally it's going to rain constantly until I run out of time, I'm sure~) (* Above the Drawer of Insufficient Precision, which houses all my hammers and other tools of "Fit, damn you") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 (edited) I've done a few other little bits and bats since the last update, mostly just putting wiring back together post-'fire' and connecting both beacons up so they now work on the switch. Oh, and some little brackets and whatnot so that can mount a second gauge (Well, so that I can put the air pressure gauge back where it belongs, and still have the tachometer.) along with a hazard switch; now the hazard lights work on a switch, rather than having to twist wires together. I still need to tweak the bracket for the indicator switch, because it doesn't fit where I first planned it, but that's not the end of the world. All the wiring will be tidied up when it's closer to being completed. The compressor's been broken down a bit further, and I've got a bearing separator on order so that I can pull the ball-bearings off the compressor crankshaft. The ball-bearings seemed okay at first, but I've noticed that one of the front ones was beginning to feel (and sound) a bit crunchy, so I'm going to replace all three. Somewhere, I have a notebook with all the measurements I've made. The bores are both in great shape, not tapered or ovalled; and... I'll have to go dig the notebook up to run through the numbers for the crankshaft, but the rods certainly don't feel loose on the crank after giving the crank journals a gentle polishing. I've also run through the various threads that needed cleaning up (Mostly 1/4UNF; the thread on the nose of the crank is 1/2" BSF, and I'll need to get a new castle nut for that, but I don't see that causing much bother; and the thread for the filler is 3/4" BSP which is handy since I have hydraulic blanks spare in that size. ) And I've also gotten a little bit more welding done, mostly just adding some support to the battery tray to stiffen things up. The air-tank carrier was also tacked in place, so that it can be welded fully at a later date. It's not much fun working in a yard that's slowly turning into a mud-pit, though. It's not the worst I've had to work in, but it's still distinctly less than pleasant when you're slopping and sliding around trying to move through the work area; it's too much like site-work at my day-job! Also, I keep catching myself on the legs of those metal screens all the time! :grr: It is amazingly frustrating, working out in the back of a car-park! Edited October 15, 2018 by Tamber missed a bit about measurements. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 29, 2018 Author Share Posted November 29, 2018 As might be evidenced by the lack of updates, this project has almost completely stalled for now. I'm still collecting parts, and trying to put things together, though. (Who woulda thunk that work moving to a bigger workshop would make it harder for me to haul the truck in from time to time?) Current little bit of progress to be made is that I've flexible brake hoses made up. They've been made with M12x1.0 ends on them, and I have matching union nuts for the hard-line, so I can at least get that one little step closer once it's no longer a swimming-pool underneath the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 29, 2018 Author Share Posted November 29, 2018 And, just so I've got something useful to bump this topic over, I have gotten some more progress on the driver's door. The infill/strengthener piece at the bottom of the door, in particular. It's being made out of two pieces, to begin with, since I didn't have a big enough single piece to do the whole lot in one go. I was catching a lot of flack for the tin-bashing, though; too noisy for some of my co-workers. 😁 Probably could've repaired the original, but it's quite lacy in parts and I fancied giving a go to bashing one up myself. After all, that's mostly why I embarked on this project, and why I'm not adverse to re-visiting some parts and finishing them up better/differently once I've had more practise. Which I will be doing with part of the outer door skin repair patch, which I really should've made up in two parts rather than try to do it all in one. Live and learn. Hopefully, once I get this piece finished up and fitted, I can give the door innards a coat of paint, then refit the door to the truck rather than have it sitting around in the workshop; which will be a bit of a boost because parts will be going back on again. Goodness knows I need the boost... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-boy Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 Keep up the good work, slowly, slowly katchee monkey. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Nothing like a good bit of fabrication to boost morale, especially when it comes out nice. You can step back and say, "I made that" Even better when you get it fitted back on the wagon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 I'm looking forward to the door going back on, and getting glass into it. No idea when that'll be, but eventually. Grabbed a spare hour or so after work on Sunday to start trying to get that underside infill put in, and start getting the bottom part of the door back to the right profile. It's pretty close in one spot, but still a good amount of persuasion required to get it back to where it should be. That's my fault for leaving it stood up in the workshop, where it's taken a bit of a beating being near the welding supplies bench. Some truck-shuffling in the yard at work (bloody brand-new LF with dead batteries that's been there for 4 months has been moved!) has left some room on slightly drier and firmer ground in front of the RL, so I'm tempted to try shift it forward out of the lake so that I can get to do a bit on the brake lines. Starting to write up the list of things that need to happen before I can get sorta-functional brakes on at least one axle, even if I have to stick the old shoes back in for now, just so I have an idea of what I might need to sort out in what order. (Starting with seals, before I end up with fluid everywhere. 😁) It remains to be seen whether or not something else gets shuffled into that space before I get there, though. 😁 New ball-bearings and a shaft-seal for the compressor should be arriving Soon™, hopefully within the next few days; then I should be good for another crack at that. (At least the crankshaft can go back in...) I think I've also managed to source some piston rings, so I can replace the oil-control ring I broke; but we'll see how that goes when they get here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted July 28, 2019 Author Share Posted July 28, 2019 Okay! So, it's been a bit since I last updated, I know; I reckon it's about time for an update on where things are at the moment. Leading directly on from my last post: I quit my job. They said to take the truck with me, too, but they'd buried it three deep in the yard anyway, as they do. 🙄 They were also supposed to be completely out of that building & yard by Christmas. Then by the end of January this year. I'm sure you can imagine how well that's gone. I still need to find somewhere that's a more permanent home for the RL, as a few seemingly-promising leads have blown away in the wind. (New job doesn't have space in their yard for me to move it down on in there, and it's probably for the best anyway. Wears a bit thin constantly being at work, even when not at work. 😁) Anyway, let's get back on with the truck update. 😁 February 2019 Went to move 'er out to a slightly drier patch of the yard, while there was still a clear path out from behind the dead van. This'll do: Late March 2019 Had a burst of energy, so went to attack the brakes again, starting with that awful job I made of the rear axle line. Much better. And while I was at it, let's continue with the piping! Some supports and pipe clamps will come, in time. Early April 2019 Brake shoes back on the OSR. They're still exactly the same, done nothing with them yet, so they'll have to come back off again to be re-lined as needed. After wrestling with the wheels, I went and looked for some nice easy jobs to do... ideally lying down in the shade under the truck. Checked & topped up the front axle, and the NSF tracta joint. The OSF, which has the most leakage -- I've got replacement seals for both sides, but considering that I might have to move the truck on short notice, I didn't want to really tear into anything that would render it immobile for any considerable amount of time -- also has a level plug that was apparently tightened by the Hulk. Ugly, eh? Early June... The rest of my struggling with the brakes, from the day after -- when most of the visible work got done -- didn't end up in that video, because my editor was becoming clumsy and struggling with the footage I'd already loaded into it. I'll probably make a part 2 with all of that stuff in. Maybe. ...in about a month, at the speed I edit video. Anyway, more brake stuff happened! More specifically, I fit those two front brake cylinders, plumb them up, and get the system properly filled with brake fluid. I also sorta bled it, but managed to destroy my cheapie vacuum bleeder by having the little fluid-trap pot end up upside down, and the pump pulled fluid in, which just wrecked the O-rings. I also re-fitted the brake shoes on the nearside, as well, so that the cylinders have some resistance to push against. All those shoes will have to come back off again at some point, either to be cleaned up (where they're of adequate thickness and not contaminated) or to be re-lined. At that point, I'll properly clean & check the drums to see if any of them need resurfacing, and how close they are to end-of-life spec. (I have just found that The XMod has 2 sets of what appears to be the right brake shoes, judging by what I can see in the pictures, amongst some other useful parts. However, the Bedford category has RL and MK stuff mixed together, so I'm holding off on any big parts until I can confirm they're actually the appropriate parts (If anyone has a list of NSNs for RL parts, like the clutch, and brake shoes/brake shoe kit, I'd love to cross-check against it! 😁)) For now, though, there's a hint of braking if I pump the brakes a lot, which is a good sign. I just need to get more fluid, and either a helper, or another (better) vacuum bleeder (and not draw fluid up into it. )... Early July July sorta became electricals month. Just minor things, a couple of worklamps... ...an isolator switch... (I wasn't entirely sure where to put it, and maybe accessible from the outside would've been better; but it'll do just fine there, since I can see it/grab it from the driver's seat, in the event that anything goes horribly wrong.) Still need to extend the alternator wiring to be on the battery side of it, to ensure it fully kills power while running, but it's good for the time being. Anyway, at this point, I should note that thing about my ex-work having to be out of that yard by January? Well, by this point, the housing developers are getting a bit miffed at all the stuff still piled up around the industrial estate -- including stuff like truck-mounted equipment that was dumped near the original building they were working out of -- and have started condensing the stockpile of crap into that one yard. I got there one day, and found the RL boxed in. 😁 Not ideal... On the electrical front, I re-ran some wires that were -- quite frankly -- routed stupidly the first time. I know better now, so I've fixed it. And then I loomed it all with PVC loom tape. (Not the same as electrical tape; it won't turn into a giant gooey mess after 6 months.) And then, a jail-break happened.😁 Sadly, these shenanigans weren't caught on video, because I forgot to put my video camera on charge. Such is life. Anyway, an escape was made to a different place to park. That about does it for now, I'm in stockpile/scheme mode again. I managed to make the wiper motor twitch a bit while I was playing with wiring, and went to investigate the linkage. One of the wiper spindles is seized up, and the other one turns out to have a bound up and twisted linkage. Unfortunately, I found out about the bound up linkage after I'd disconnected the link bar from the seized up spindle, and the next attempt to move the wiper motor pulled the other spindle out of the rusted roof metal. Ah well, it needed fixing anyway, right? 😁 Currently in two minds about those spindles, and need to do a little measuring before I decide what route to go. Either way, the roof has to be repaired to be able to take the loads that the wipers will impose, so that needs to be done no matter what; but whether I repair the spindles, or re-engineer something similar but from a different vehicle/manufacturer, depends on how easy it is to get appropriate-sized wiper arms and whatnot. But the wiper motor still works, which is nice. Just have to do a minor repair where the mounting screw for the cover is snapped off in the stalk for the switch, and it should be perfectly serviceable. It's the little things, yanno? 🙂 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butch Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Hi mate if you pm me with your contact details I will dig out the NSN for the parts you have asked for if you still need them . Cheers Butch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Hope the new job and parking facility work out alright for you, but good to see you are still making progress with the old girl, even if it is a bit slower than you would like. If you are struggling with the wiper linkage and spindles, you could try these people; Transervex of Bootle. They mainly supply the bus and coach market, but have a massive range of parts in stock and can make/repair to order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 On 7/30/2019 at 10:01 PM, Zero-Five-Two said: Hope the new job and parking facility work out alright for you, but good to see you are still making progress with the old girl, even if it is a bit slower than you would like. If you are struggling with the wiper linkage and spindles, you could try these people; Transervex of Bootle. They mainly supply the bus and coach market, but have a massive range of parts in stock and can make/repair to order. Thanks! Things seem to be working out well enough at the moment. 😁 Progress is progress, and all that. In exciting news, the RL does seem to be able to fit on the back of work's big slide-bed; the only potential concern is height. (And that's mostly me being a worry-wart, I think.) So far, I've managed to free up, re-lubricate, and straighten the linkage of one of the wiper spindles; and elsenet, someone turned up some useful parts that may come in handy. Though it's always good to know more places that might have other parts, if needed! 👍 Apparently, Series LRs have a little adapter drum that attaches to the 1/4"ø shaft with a grub-screw, and converts it to a 1/2"ø push-on spline; and nice short wiper arms that then fit onto said 1/2" spline. Bonus, they're inexpensive parts. https://www.paddockspares.com/stc987-wiper-splined-adaptor-drum.html and, for example, https://www.paddockspares.com/prc4276-front-wiper-arm-right-hand-drive-vehicles.html I'll see where that leads me. If it goes nowhere, then at least I'm not out of pocket very much. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 August 2019 An escape, just in the nick of time, as the final objections to the demolition of the remaining Loco Works are withdrawn. Didn't make it up to the unit. Instead, she had to sit in work's yard for a bit, next to a pair of scrap DAFs, probably having the vehicular equivalent of flashbacks to the breaker's yard. This weekend, I broke out the welder at work, stripped the bumper off, and got the broken bumper mount welded back together. How'd it get broken? Weeeell... there were some escapades on the rescue mission, extracting it from the Loco Works, resulting in the RL ramming the crane on the back of the slide-bed. Anyway, once I got that stuck back together, we loaded up, and I drove the whole mess on up to the unit. (First time I've loaded a slide-bed by myself, and it didn't fall off again, so I count that as a success! I also managed the whole drive up there without breaking anything! Bonus!) Straightened the bumper a little, but didn't want to try push it any further, because the existing cracks at the bend points were already spreading; and it's easier to fix it if it doesn't snap completely. It should straighten better with some heat on it, and then I'll weld and reinforce it. Slowly but surely, things are coming together again. I've started reassembly of the compressor; one piston & rod is back in, I have a replacement oil control ring for the other one. (It yet remains to be seen whether or not this replacement actually fits. I hope so!) Still going to be held up by not having the right screws for the oil pump pressure relief. (The ones I got are very close to fitting, but are too big. I've ordered some of a slightly smaller size, but we shall see.) I also need to get another spring to replace the one that disintegrated upon removal. I will, of course, document dimensions/thread counts/etc when I find things to be satisfactory. In short, it's a herd of small pieces that are getting in my way at the moment. But I'm hoping it shouldn't take too long to have the compressor back up and running again. We shall see. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Okay, a bit of a catch-up! That oil control ring that turned up? Quarter of a millimetre too thick for the groove in the piston. Someone on RetroRides managed to find a NOS piston for the same type of compressor off a Bedford VAL, so I thought that'd do for at least pinching the rings & retaining clips from. (Spoiler: It... did, but something else screwed me over.) Screws for the oil pressure relief valve in the compressor: They're a No.3-48 UNC, in case anyone ever needs to know. I have also got some springs that should work. More testing to come. Also, some money was spent, and that kinked rear prop has been rebuilt. (New tube, and new UJs while they were there.) Looks a lot more like it's the correct length than it was before, now. Unfortunately, I don't really have the room to really fly around -- like I did on the old industrial estate -- and try it out. Still, she does move about on it, and there were no horrible noises when I did so. I'm taking that as a success. Further pottering about saw the front tow bar... ...thing removed, along with the radiator and a bit of front panel. The beam the towing hitch is mounted on is quite twisted, and I'm not terribly impressed with how it was mounted. It's done the job, I'll admit, but some wonky brackets with 3 bolts (total) and welded only on the top edge where it touched? I think I can do a bit better. I'd certainly not like to have to rely on it, at some point, and have it break off! Then, a little bit of this happened: And a bit of that: I also re-hung the (unfinished) driver's door back on, so it stops getting more and more squashed. I'll need to continue on with that, at some point. Weather permitting, I'd like to take advantage of there being a big hole where the engine used to be, to continue repairs to the back of the cab. Continuing onwards! Some steel turned up, and I found an engine cradle in it. Removal didn't go entirely to plan, and play stopped for the day at about this point: I wasn't intending to stick wheels on the cradle, but the little jack I was using didn't want to roll over that ground, so I had to stick the wheels on there while the engine was on the cradle, and all that. It wasn't altogether pleasant. I'll do some rebuilding to that cradle before I have to refit the engine, and do a better job of preparations... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 All that later resulted in this: Apparently my "decent-ish" trolley tyres weren't all that decent. They were all pretty much flat by the time I got it out. And then my hasty upside-down welds broke at the door to the workshop, after I'd spent quite a considerable amount of time trying to wheel the engine up the yard. But it got there, eventually. Just to cheer you up/make you cringe in horror, there is -- of course -- video of the shenanigans I went through to reach this point. 😁 Anyway, with it in the workshop, and an engine stand on the way, first order of business was to remove clutch, flywheel, and clutch housing. Clutch wasn't the prettiest, but I've seen much worse drive into the workshop. One (presumably asbestos-laden) cookie: Flywheel looking similarly grim: With the back end undressed... ...time came to get her stood on the engine stand. Now, I wasn't expecting great things of said engine stand because of how cheap it was, but it *was* listed as rated to 560kg. Presumably, that's 560kg in either a very short engine, or one where you mount the stand to the side of the block, because... ...I put the shop-built cradle back under the front of it, so I could carry on working. Some further tear-down discovered other concerning items: I've still yet to take the camshaft out, but looking down at it through the lifter hole and barring the engine over it doesn't seem like the cam lobe has any visible damage or wear. Further investigation warranted. Executioner time! Off with her head! Number 4 appears to have seen some excitement. But the head doesn't appear to have seen the same battering, only what appears to be corrosion damage from -- presumably -- it being sat there with that inlet valve open for so long. 20mm deep combustion chambers! Nice! 😁 Trying to clear my workbench a bit, I thought I'd crack on with putting that compressor back together a bit more. So, out comes that NOS piston and sit it next to the original one. Spot the difference! Also, spot the problem that I hadn't yet. Okay, bit of surface rust on those rings, that'll clean off okay with some wire wool. So, extract the rings, pick up the original piston... and it just happened to catch the light just right. Oh dear. So, cleaned up that aluminium piston good n proper, cleaned up the rings, checked & set the ring gap, made sure it all went together. Good-o. And then my steel arrived for reinforcing the engine stand! So I did that, and then braced meself. Took a few deep breaths, braced myself a bit more, and... eventually... the engine's ready for belly-rubs. Oily bits exposed! And only a 1/4" of sludge in the bottom of the sump, too, which I'm quite impressed by. Spent the rest of the evening cleaning out the inside of the sump back to nearly spotless, and hammering out the dents, since the sump appears to have met the front diff at some point. (Now picturing someone taking an RL off a Dukes of Hazzard style jump, and wincing profusely.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Also, I've yet to pull the pistons & rods out (I was meant to do that today, but I've spent the entire day in a sleepy haze so I didn't head up to the workshop. 's been a couple of days this week where I've not really woken up until it's just about going dark, and I'm not sure why.) but a quick inspection of the bores while barring the engine over has shown a couple of cylinders with marks to the wall. One of which (I want to say it's No.4) looks to be corrosion from moisture, the other is vertical scratches. Knocking the pistons out will really let me find out; it would not surprise me if there's broken rings or other damage in there. The marks don't seem to be very deep, but they're enough to catch a fingernail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Hi mate, I will give you full marks for perseverance on getting the engine out! I have done that job many times on in-service RL's, we had a cradle that sat on a large trolley jack, and once clear you could lower it making it more stable to move around. If you are going to put it back the same way, I would use solid wheels and get a sheet of strong ply, or some old steel plate so you can move it under the lorry easier. Your mention of sump being dented, I think you have the wrong sump for a 4x4, it should have a deep well at the front. This is why they fitted sump guards in front. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Richard Farrant said: Hi mate, I will give you full marks for perseverance on getting the engine out! I have done that job many times on in-service RL's, we had a cradle that sat on a large trolley jack, and once clear you could lower it making it more stable to move around. If you are going to put it back the same way, I would use solid wheels and get a sheet of strong ply, or some old steel plate so you can move it under the lorry easier. Your mention of sump being dented, I think you have the wrong sump for a 4x4, it should have a deep well at the front. This is why they fitted sump guards in front. regards, Richard Thanks! It certainly took some perseverance! I loosely followed the EMER for the cradle, but don't have a trolley jack quite up to that sort of job. And yeah, solid wheels certainly seem to be the way to go, along with a sheet to lay on the ground to at least give me a flat surface to work with. It does seem like it's the wrong sump, a centre well that's very close to the front diff. I already suspected this is a rebuilt engine, but possibly a bitsa using parts that were to hand, in its commercial life? Either way, I'm sure it could tell some stories... EDIT: ...would that perhaps explain why there are two dipsticks, then? There's one that's accessible through the usual flap in the engine tin, and a much shorter one that goes down into the central sump right next to the oil pump, that you can only really get at from underneath the cab. Edited November 28, 2019 by Tamber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 You'll look back on this in years to come, and laugh, thinking I must have been mad. I thought I worked in the brown stuff, but I take my hat off to you sir. As your video says you got there in the end, well done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 1 hour ago, Tamber said: EDIT: ...would that perhaps explain why there are two dipsticks, then? There's one that's accessible through the usual flap in the engine tin, and a much shorter one that goes down into the central sump right next to the oil pump, that you can only really get at from underneath the cab. About 40 years ago, I would have built several hundred of these engines, so I am going on memory now, think the dipstick fitted in to a tube which was attached to side of block (using screws holding push rod cover plate) and probably stood at same height as the distributor. No idea why you have a second dipstick as I thought there was only one hole for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 8 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said: About 40 years ago, I would have built several hundred of these engines, so I am going on memory now, think the dipstick fitted in to a tube which was attached to side of block (using screws holding push rod cover plate) and probably stood at same height as the distributor. No idea why you have a second dipstick as I thought there was only one hole for it. Yup, that's the one that's accessed through the flap in the side-tin. The other one is much shorter, mounted lower and further to the rear of the engine (just behind the oil pump.) Flat steel blade type, stamped with 'MIN' and 'MAX'; MIN lines up with the top of the filter screen on the oil pump, MAX is an inch or two up from that. I'll definitely give it some closer investigation next time I'm up at the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 37 minutes ago, Tamber said: Yup, that's the one that's accessed through the flap in the side-tin. The other one is much shorter, mounted lower and further to the rear of the engine (just behind the oil pump.) Flat steel blade type, stamped with 'MIN' and 'MAX'; MIN lines up with the top of the filter screen on the oil pump, MAX is an inch or two up from that. I'll definitely give it some closer investigation next time I'm up at the workshop. The short dipstick complies with your present sump.. If you change the sump for the correct RL one, you will also need the extended oil pick up as the well is much deeper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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