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Royal Enfield WD/CO transmission leak

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5050-30 is an Ariel part number, as they indicate...the tap on your bike is an Enots Hexagon type as used typically by Norton in 1/4"BSP and also by BSA and AMC (I believe threaded 1/8"BSP).

 

26965 as per the price list and confirmed by Ron's NOS parts label is certainly a WD RE tap. All you have to do now is confirm that it is correct for your model and contract.

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DOH!! I should try reading a little more... I blame viewing it on a smart phone 😉

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As I already said. Every WD Enfield to my knowledge uses that 26965 tap. I don't know of it fitted to any other make. The twin tap that you show was also fitted to Triumphs and James ML's. But maybe with a different size thread for the tank. Ron

Edited by Ron

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Ron, I was being deliberately cautious as I don't really know Enfields and I had seen by chance a reference to part no. 26512 relating to a WD/C

 

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Burtons list this tap but no illustration. It looks the same in the parts book as 26965 to me. Maybe they were originally chromed ?

 

 

26512 PETROL TAP WITH FILTER - Standard Selling Price £35.00

PLUNGER TYPE/1/4" GAS

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Yes I just looked in my WD/D parts list and that is also 26512 (pissing down too much to go down to the shed to check other model parts lists). I can only imagine that it's something to do with the finish? I'm sure the thread sizes are all the same. More anomalies! Ron

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Just had a look in my workshop. I have the original taps from my early WD/C, and a pair of later taps from Ron's box here. The WD/C taps are dull chrome, the later taps look a bit shinier to me. And the sleeve in which the cork plunger moves is 1/16 longer on the newer taps! But both taps are stamped with the same patent number and look identical in any other respect.

 

Jan

Edited by rewdco

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Ron has got seven Enfields to put the measuring caliper on tomorrow just in case any of them have got the wrong tap ! :-)

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AARRRRGGGGHHHH! Another sleepless night worrying about my taps!!! Nah! bugger it! All my taps are the same 26965's. I'll live with the fact that some might be 1/16" too long. Ron

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Finally I've finished the cougar and serviced my young ladies bike so time to sort the old CO out. She's now on the bench ready for the gearbox investigation. Before I start are there any nasty surprises waiting for me when remove the casing? i.e. Something that'll need to be done/released to remove it or something that may drop inside. Any tips and tricks are welcome.

image.jpg

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Gearbox stripped cleaned and ready for new bearings...

For the life of me I can't understand how there was moisture inside!!

image.jpg

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image.jpg

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I'm quite sure you will have to remove it from the frame if you're going to replace the important bearing. I would fit a sealed bearing and just remove the inner seal for a leak free gearbox. Ron

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Ron it's on the bench now... All bearings are sealed and yes I'll be taking the inner seal out.

 

I have a question re the grease. How much grease do I put in when I assemble it? I know it'll be easier whilst the box is apart. The manual says fill the cavity then top up with gear oil whilst the engine is ticking over.

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I've only ever used straight 50 in mine, although my 'G' box leaks a bit and I've been adding straight 90. But it hasn't helped much and I'm reluctant to touch the box until I'm ready or have to, as it's such a sweet box.

 

I would perhaps throw in a couple of handfuls of grease while it's open and then top up with oil through the filler neck.

 

There's this stuff from Hitchcocks. http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-tools-silkolene#part_4110

 

Ron

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For some reason the link isn't working from my phone. I spoke With Dave 2 yesterday when ordering my parts and he's popped the correct grease in with my order. I hope to get in the workshop this evening and rebuild the box. Then to sort the carb leak out and if all goes well I hope to take her for her first ride

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