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James ML - opinion needed

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I haven't done a lot of studying of what they did to civy bikes. I've only researched the WD versions. Here is just one period picture from my archive. I've no idea why the WO chose this way round. 

Funnily enough I've just turned the distributor round 45 degrees on one of my WD C10's as I'd installed it as per the civy manual with the flat part facing the barrel which is confirmed in brochure pictures. And yet all the original pictures of WD C10's show them in a different configuration.Again I can't think why this could be??? 

I spend a lot of time looking at old B&W pictures.  Ron  

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Ron is, as usual, spot-on ! ML engine and carb all painted at the factory.........

Gear cover should be curved all-over without the flat portion for the engine number (this is a post-war feature) but apart from that is the same component.....always a case of making do with the next best thing if the original is beyond repair.....

The plug on WD versions does indeed go on the left with the decompressor on the right.....it doesn't make any difference to the running although for aesthetics should be on the left.....

Bike's looking good Monty !

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Hi Steve. Maybe they thought the decompressor cable took a cleaner line to the right side of the barrel?  Ron 

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  I saw many pictures from James ml wd, with different position, in effect that is not important for the function, BUT, for the WD the plug is  left......Monty, you must change that !!!!!     Please 

INSTRUCTION BOOK JAMES ML 001.jpg

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Posted (edited)

That clear HT lead is soo French! It might be better to drill through the suppressor, and use it as a sleeve. An immobilizer was also fitted, you can see it on Ron's picture, and on the drawing above, also the rare Lodge cap was fitted, same as on the Flea.

Cheers, Lex 

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Edited by welbike
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Regarding the DKW, might be better to start a whole new topic on it, but I know next to nothing about this model, only have the RT100 and 125 models, but I can check the numbers.

Lex 

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This is the HT set up that Lex mentioned. I also remove the inside of the suppressors and use them as a dummy. Ron 

DSCF2785.jpg

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I assume they left the factory painted. But certainly if they'd been anywhere near REME for a touch up-everything got sprayed, sometimes even the tyres. 

It's like bolts. Some restorers like to leave them silver, some paint them. Which is correct?

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Posted (edited)

Nearly always the fasteners where plated. Dull chrome on some of the earlier WD bikes but certainly cadmium plating was normal. Handlebar controls, exhaust systems, speedo/ammeter bezels etc. were dull chrome plated until war economies and a need for more haste dictated that later production bikes could have had these parts left bare or painted. 

The ML petrol cap was not painted and I suspect it was dull plated, but difficult to tell from B&W pictures. Ron

Edited by Ron

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On my James, he appears some brown paint, that he said it was painted, and this is a really veterans, no replica, participated from war.

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original paint, fixation spring saddle, petrol  cap, carburettor, head cylinder she was brown completely, and screw silver to the fork 

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55 minutes ago, military james said:

On my James, he appears some brown paint, that he said it was painted, and this is a really veterans, no replica, participated from war.

Thats an interesting topic. When does a original become a replica?

Both my frames and basic engines are original, most of the cycle parts are too. However much of my fittings are new. So many nuts and bolts are mangled after 77 years I decided to renew. Here's one of my boxes of bsf stuff. I tend to run each one through the lathe to remove the modern letters off the top. 

One was missing a chainguard so I made one. I've made the brake linkage. Had to renew the gearbox case.

I'm re-wiring the bike with modern fabric covered vinyl wire.

When is it no longer original but a replica?

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Did James use BSF ? Should the wiring be cloth-covered ? The cables should !

In terms of replicas being considered original, best to have sufficient funds and commission a restored aeroplane...An identification plate is sufficient.

The CAA has a far lower burden of proof than DVLA  !

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j'ai gardé toute la visserie et rondelles estampillée ML  , j'ai quatre visses remplacées , mais j'ai les originaux avec peinture marron  .

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I kept all the screws and washers stamped ML, I have four screws replaced, but I have the originals with brown paint.

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The fasteners were 26tpi BSCyc. (1/4" of course is the same as BSF). It's why I mentioned http://www.nookysnuts.com/ the other day. His British made "Cycle thread" nuts and bolts have plane tops and a bearing side to the nuts. Zinc plated which is a bit shinier and not as hard wearing as cad. But with some very gentle grit blasting, can be dulled down nicely.  Ron

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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, military james said:

I even had the trunk with a pear hs, I did not know, I threw it away, it was twenty years ago

You've lost me with this one Thierry. Please explain "pear hs"   Ron☺️

Edited by Ron

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