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Zero-Five-Two

Mk1 Militant Tanker

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I would have guessed at Aden myself - probably too young for Egypt/Suez. :)

 

There were other Middle East and Near East garrisons back in the 1950s/1960s, such as Sharjah and Bahrain, as well as Libya, so not necessarily Aden.

 

Steve.

Edited by Ex-boy
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Another weekend, with half decent weather, so bit more progress and the usual round of pictures.

 

217 Back Panel.jpg

 

General assessment of the rear panels corrosion brought on the decision that to replace with new metal would be easier than to try and do patch repairs.

 

219 Cab Rear Stripped.jpg

 

So out with the grinder, knock the rivet heads off and strip out

 

220 Cab Rear Panels.jpg

 

Once removed the extent of the tin worms nibbling can be seen, especially round the edges

 

221 Rear Beams Cleaned.jpg

 

Makes cleaning of the beams easier. Generally they are in good condition, de-rust and fresh paint

 

222 All Beams Painted.jpg

 

Once again rotisserie makes life so much easier

 

223 Side Window Marking Out.jpg

 

Making new panels, clamp the old one in place, draw round it then cut out

 

224 Side Window Test Fitting.jpg

 

Tidy up the edges and test fit

 

225 Left Corner Fitting.jpg

 

Corner panels are a bit more taxing, but same principle. Cut out an oversize square, put a rough curve on it by wrapping round a gas bottle, first, then clamp together with the old panel to mark out reasonably accurate shape. Fit to cab frame and clamp in for final curve.

 

226 Back Panel Test Fitting.jpg

 

Rear panel is a single sheet so quite simple. Trial fit using a couple of screwdrivers through the rivet holes

 

227 Rear Panels Fitted.jpg

 

Final fitting up. Panels glued on with Tiger seal adhesive, and riveted in place. I have every intention of using the original pattern "snap" rivets, but at this time I used modern "pop" rivets. Primarily for quickness as you only get a few minutes before the adhesive dries. Plan A is to drill them out one by one and bang in the proper ones before final painting.

 

The back edge of the curved roof panel still needs some attention along the edge, and there is a couple of holes to be sorted, but we are nearly there with this part.

 

Looks good but it wasn't without a bit of drama. Off side window panel was fitted inside out, I didn't realise it until the rivet holes wouldn't line up. Take panel off turn round and refit. Trouble is, now the glue is on the outside as well, and on my hands, then on the drill, then the riveter, and so on. Does clean off with copious quantities of paint thinners, but not before I've managed to spread it everywhere.

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Looking very good. :-) Nice idea about the rivets - pops would look a bit out of place in those areas. How close is the curve of a gas bottle to the curve on the original corner pieces? I look forwards to seeing the finished article. Did you decide if you are going DBG for the finish? Commiserations on the inside out part. Done that too often myself :-(

 

Should have had a go on mine this weekend - but got grounded as the OH wanted to go out with her friends, daughter is down at Fleet visiting the boyfriend and once of our dogs needs constant care now. So spent my time on the Landie trying to work out why the fuel gauge is fubar. Should stand me in good stead for working out why the cab gauge on mine doesn't read. Got the bug bombs though to ensure the spider webs are a thing of the past in my ones cab when I do get over there :)

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Gas bottle curve wasn't quite tight enough, but when clamped onto the cab frame it bought it round just perfectly. Some of the copied rivet holes needed a quick run through with the drill to clear the burrs, but on most the rivets went straight in.

 

I think the colour has to be DBG, because that would have been how it was when new. I have seen a picture somewhere of one in the sand yellow which I thought looked OK, until I noticed the drivers door was open to reveal DBG on the inside.

 

I also like the look of the big F54 sticker on the side of the tank, but I think they didn't come in until much later when the wagon would have been IRR Matt Green, so it probably wont be that accurate for the purists. It will be serviceable, and it will be out and about as much as possible

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Nice colour photos of Millie tankers 65BN52 and (probably) 55 in an interesting new book by Tankograd called "British Military Trucks of the Cold War" by Les Freathy. Shows them supporting RAF Wessex helicopters. They are in DBG with red fire extinguishers on the rear and with yellow bridge plates.

 

In fact the book has to be a "must" for anyone with a Post-WWII British military lorry! I'm very pleased with my copy!

 

10 68

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Thanks for the heads up on that one, interesting information too, I thought the extinguishers would have been the cream coloured foam ones. Best get my hands on a copy

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Summers going quite well down this end of the country, we've had quite a few weekends of decent weather which is good for those of us who have to do our restoration work in the great outdoors. Sitting on patio now with beer and a cigar in the moonlight, so time for a write up.

 

Cab top is all but done now, last couple of panels finished off this week.

 

20160812_185028.jpg

 

New quarter light panel made and fitted, seen here with the actual window frame tried in the hole.

 

Quality bit of metal folding too. The corner is a tight curve rather than a sharp 90 degree, achieved with two planks of wood!! One has the edge rounded off to give the curve, then both clamped in the workmate!!

 

20160810_202645.jpg

 

All there is left to do is replace the "pop" rivets with the proper "Snap" ones, clean up and spray the primer coats and it'll be ready to refit.

 

Early (-ish!) start this morning in the sunshine and set about the bottom half of the world.

 

 

87 N-S Step Panel-001.jpg

 

Might as well start with the worse bit! and this is only the outside.

 

Plan is panels off, wheel arch off and see where we go from there.

 

20160813_092541.jpg

 

Before that, the blast skirt has to go. This is a tanker specific addition to the bottom of the cab. It is mounted onto a long hinge and is meant to be lift able when required. This one hasn't been lifted since.... well way back then.

 

Turns out there wasn't a lot holding it on either.

 

Back in a minute for round 2. Need a beer replen

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OK next up, out with drill and grinder. Like the rest of the cab the side panels are fixed on with two dozen rivets, and the wheel arch is bolted into captive nuts in the frame. No chance of undoing them, didn't even try, mainly because there isn't a lot of frame left.

 

 

20160813_121050.jpg

 

With the panels off the extent of the frame corrosion is evident, back end of the wheel arch frame is just hanging there, dangling on a thread of metal

 

20160813_121059.jpg

 

Whole lot is going to need cutting out and replacement

 

20160813_121148.jpg

 

Next out will be the battery tray and the floor. Like the wheel arch the floor plate bolts into captive nuts so much work to come there.

 

20160813_121222.jpg

 

Got enough here to be going on with. Wheel arch is good, just needs touch up and repaint. Rest of it is new panels to cut out. I can do the flat ones easily, but the long curve corner might need farming out to get rolled properly. Bending it round a gas cylinder may not cut it.

 

Blast skirt is the big bit

 

20160813_102526.jpg

 

 

20160813_102531.jpg

 

Shaped edges, nice cut out bit that fits round engine sump, hinged bit in the centre, and the locking plates that hold it together. Much to do, keep watching!!

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I always read on in awe of the restoration jobs that people like yourself take on. And just make look so fairly easy!

 

Very much enjoying this one.

 

Scott

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Always appreciate any compliments, I don't know about making it easy, some days you wonder why you started in the first place, but other times, like today it all goes well and you feel well pleased with the achievement.

 

Todays plan was to replace all the modern "pop" rivets with proper Old School "snap" rivets as it would have been when first built.

 

Tools required include:

 

20160820_181438.jpg

 

Little tray for heating rivets in. Did intend to have a Gaz Bleuet Stove underneath but it has been a bit windy today and that wasn't working, so just used a blowlamp.

 

20160820_181339.jpg

 

Snap punch for holding the hot rivet in place while hammering in. I got a proper one for the smaller 3/16" rivets, but had to invent one out of a big bolt for the bigger 1/4" ones. Stuck both onto an old hammer head to make it easier to hold.

 

20160820_181511.jpg

 

Rivet Hammer. Well, it's actually just a normal air chisel with an extra long end made from an old hand chisel welded on.

 

Hopefully this is the system in action

 

 

 

and the results look like this

 

20160820_110050.jpg

 

Add a coat of paint for the final touch

 

20160820_173516.jpg

Edited by Zero-Five-Two
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Have to be a bit sensible with that sort of thing, I know we all moan about 'elf an' safety, but ear defs all round

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Have to be a bit sensible with that sort of thing, I know we all moan about 'elf an' safety, but ear defs all round

 

Including the neighbours I expect ! Very nice job though :bow:

 

David

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That's a great video!

Seeing the theory put into practise is a great motivator to have a go myself when I get going on my Matador.

 

Paul

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Started pulling the Near Side door apart this afternoon, bottom edge is well shot, and will need a good deal of repair work. Outer skin has encountered the tin worm too, and has had a patch riveted on at some point in it's life.

 

253 Near Side Door Stripped.jpg

 

Had to cut the handle off too, but they are still readily available, so no great drama there. Glass is good but the runners have seen better days. I did get some new channel for my timber tractor years ago, but I cannot remember where I got it from. Anyone got any ideas.

 

Winder Militant.jpg

 

Posted these two pictures mainly for the benefit of Neil (Artistsrifles) and others fixing Militant windows. First pic is the winder from my tanker.

 

Winder Morris.jpg

 

This pic is a Morris Minor rear door winder, lifted from that well known auction site. Minor (excuse the pun) differences to the Militant, but adaptable to suit and only £20

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Started pulling the Near Side door apart this afternoon, bottom edge is well shot, and will need a good deal of repair work. Outer skin has encountered the tin worm too, and has had a patch riveted on at some point in it's life.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119111[/ATTACH]

 

Had to cut the handle off too, but they are still readily available, so no great drama there. Glass is good but the runners have seen better days. I did get some new channel for my timber tractor years ago, but I cannot remember where I got it from. Anyone got any ideas.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119112[/ATTACH]

 

Posted these two pictures mainly for the benefit of Neil (Artistsrifles) and others fixing Militant windows. First pic is the winder from my tanker.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119113[/ATTACH]

 

This pic is a Morris Minor rear door winder, lifted from that well known auction site. Minor (excuse the pun) differences to the Militant, but adaptable to suit and only £20

This any good Rob ? https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/486-brass-h-channel-small-chair

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Not quite the right profile, Andy, but thanks for the pointer. Right desert, wrong tent as they say

 

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/420-window-channel-3

 

Found this on the same site. It's meant for modern 6mm glass. My Militant windows come in at just under, about 5.4mm so it should do nicely. And at £7.80 per metre it wont break the bank either.

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Finally, after a good deal of to-ing and fro-ing with my fleebay supplier in India, I have taken delivery of a pair of new window winders of the correct type.

 

20161024_205345.jpg

 

2 x new ones

 

20161024_205626.jpg

 

Shown here next to a worn out original. Two minor differences.

 

a. Helper spring needs to be changed around, just a case of unclipping it and turning it over.

 

b. Actuating arm is a couple of inches shorter, but this is OK as the winder gearing allows the arm longer travel

 

Otherwise we are good to go, just the small matter of repairing the door frame, putting a new skin on, replacing the glass runners etc, etc.

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Does your supplier do the track that fits onto the bottom of the window. Or do you know another source of them?

 

Bob

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"My Supplier" is probably a bit strong, it's just a company I found on ebay advertising winder mechanisms for Morris Minors. They are called Classicenfield and are based in India.

 

Bearing in mind the channel is a standard part used by most of the good old British companies that got sucked into the abyss that became British Leyland, I would have thought you could get some from one of the vintage part websites.

 

That said I haven't needed to get any myself, yet. You could always nip down your local breakers, see if they have got anything that old hiding in the bushes. Recycle a length from a car window

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