Jump to content

Mk1 Militant Tanker

Recommended Posts

Photos are the easy bit, Bob, I can do you loads of them, it's the actual work that takes the time.


Fitting this little lot took all day!! 

The two cables you see are the starter positive lead and the trigger feed. Both need to be fitted to the starter under the floor plate, then fed up through the hole.  The two levers are high/low ratio and PTO engage, both pass through the floor and connect to rods underneath. 

Once that lot are attached, the whole lot bolts through the cab frame and onto the mounting block on the chassis rail.  One hell of a juggling exercise to get it all lined up. When you've done all that the battery tray bolts through, but by then there is very little room to get washers, nuts and a spanner in to tighten it all up.

Spot the bit I forgot to paint in DBG before fitting.

Small point of concern to sort out later, there is nothing to stop you inadvertently engaging the PTO when driving. You just push the lever down.  I would've expected some form of lock on it, like my timber tractor has. You can't  engage the winch on that unless the high/low lever is in neutral. Will worry about that later.

Next step is the other end of the drivers side floor, clutch pedal and foot brake valve bolt through, but not before you connect the oil pressure switch wire.  Hopefully this weekend

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

We've got all that to come Rob. Ours has been modified somewhat,  as well as the crane etc, the electrics have been changed, and the control box is just inside the drivers door and nothing like the original. The air cleaners have been re-sited inside the cab behind the passenger seat. Ours also has a heater fitted to the nearside with flexible air ducting running about everywhere. 

The plan is to restore it to good condition, but leave the modifications as they are. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Modifications are all part of the history that make each motor an individual, and should be kept, unless you are trying to return a thing to factory original.

Think I would return the air cleaners back to outside, though, the space behind the passengers seat should be reserved for the coolbox of beers when at shows

  • Haha 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

We fully intend to keep it in its modified form,  after all it has probably spent more time like it is now than it did in service. As for the air cleaners, they are staying where they are. We're moving the batteries too a locker behind the cab. That'll make space for the fridge behind the drivers seat. (It's a bigger space)!!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit more progress today, weather started reasonable, but rain stopped play just after lunch so cut the day short, just as I was getting into the swing of it.

That said, I did get the floor plates down on the drivers side


You have to wire up the oil pressure sender unit, first, it fits just by the clutch pedal and runs along the floor rail to come up at the front to the dashboard.

Connecting the pipes to the foot brake valve was interesting, now there is a wheelarch and other bodywork in the way, but managed it without too much grief.

I had cut out a new piece of rubber for the handbrake gaiter, but managed to get the actual slot for the lever too far over to the right hand side.  It did fit, but looked awful, so will have to try and get it right next time. Also left the new gear lever gaiter at home, so that's on the list for next week.

Moved on to the exhaust, in preparation for the grand starting of the old motor shortly.  I knew it had a hole in it, but I hadn't noticed the rest of the rot.


It has seen better days, and the inside is just as rotten and falling apart as the outside.  I think sourcing or making a new one is the way to go.  I've been told the Iveco Cargo is a good match. just needs the flanges changing, so that's this weeks mission.

One bit that has survived on the old silencer, and in quite good nick too is the little brass plate that tells you it was Made in England, doesn't say when,


Certainly not recently, though!!



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty much rained off again this weekend,  getting a bit monotonous, now.  Still we cracked on with other stuff.

Off Side Door from the pump control box


Top hinge is broken, and the tin worm has eaten it's way in behind the edge beading, forcing the two apart.


On the inside, The budget lock is seized, and the fire extinguisher bracket is broken. Managed to free off the lock, end of the bottom pin needs a repair and obviously a fire extinguisher and bracket will need to be picked up at some point.


Started by removing everything, including the beading.  The whole thing is very heavy weight, main panel is 2mm thick sheet, no tin plate here.  Good thing about that is, even real heavy duty rust is still only on the surface.

The cut out in the bottom right corner allows access the diesel tank filler.  Can't say I like that idea, so a small modification is planned.

Fill in that corner, so you can't get to the diesel tank cap without opening the door.  Won't stop the determined fuel thief, I know. Round here the pick axe seems to be the weapon of choice, just bang a hole in the side of the tank, catch some and spill the rest.   My main concern is some smart alec at a show or somewhere who thinks it's good to chuck something in the tank, resulting in disaster for me on the way home. 


Worked out alright too, cut the frame corner and turn it round, new bit of sheet into the corner and weld up.



Sand off the loose and flaking paint and give it a coat of primer.

Next job, 38 rivets to bang in, as the beading goes back on  That'll impress the neighbours later this week!!  They''re quarter inch dome head ones and they take a bit of knocking down too.  Smear of filler over the rust damage and we're home and dry.


  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tool bin door turned out quite well.  Frame now riveted on and first coat of primer applied


Bit more finishing off, over the next few evenings and it'll be ready to go back on.

Good sunny weather this weekend, if a tad chilly and much has been achieved.

Three weeks ago I fitted the drivers side battery box, in behind the auxilary gear levers


But I got it wrong and it had to come out, again, twice!  First time the bolts used were too long, and although the nuts were tightened, the tray was still loose, so out it came to have shorter bolts fitted.

Then I realised that the inner side panel needs to be drilled and riveted on, but the battery tray is in the way for that so it has to come out again.

Another weeks delay occured as I remembered, just in time, that the indicator lamp on the outside has to go on before the inner panel.

Talk about chicken and egg.  I've been having a bit of a run of that sort of thing lately.  Fitted replacement gaiter on the hand brake lever, then remembered that the securing nut on the bottom lever needed a split pin.  This necessitated the whole floor plate lifting the get to the pin hole, and of course the gaiter had to come off to lift the plate!

Anyway finally got my act together today.


 Shiny new indicator fitted on the out side


Then inner panel, complete with the little bracket for the jack handle.  Cable for the indicator is left rolled up for now, I'm not sure how long it needs to be to reach round to the junction box, which fits on the drivers seat frame.

So finally, the battery tray can be fitted in peace, using the right length bolts. But then, I forgot to take a photo of it!!

Feeling that I was on a roll, decided to attack the exhaust silencer. Going with the theory that a Ford Cargo one fits, I picked one up from fleebay last week.


 15 mm bigger diameter, which is not a problem, but it is 250 mm longer.  It would fit my timber tractor quite well, as it mounts along the chassis.  But on the tanker, it mounts transversely between the front wheels. A quick trial fit today confirmed my suspicion that it would foul the off side tyre when on full right hand lock.

The other issue is the pipe fittings, cargo pipe is through the centre of the silencer, Tanker one is off set to the top


So as well as fitting the square flange, it needs moving to one side.


The patient is prepared, and the surgeons instruments are ready.  Seems wrong to be cutting up a new piece of kit, but needs must etc


250 mm sliced off the inlet end, quickly followed by a couple of hours cutting, grinding, hammering and swearing



And we get to this.  Flange moved to the top edge, central hole welded up, and ready to be welded back on.  Ran out of time today.  One minor issue, to get the internal pipes in the right place, the tail pipe stub is upside down, so a bit more cut and slice to come at the other end at the other end

Edited by Zero-Five-Two
  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished off the silencer today


Flange end welded on


Tail pipe amended to a nice 45 degree down angle.  Finished off with a quick coat of high temperature black and we are ready to fit.  Should keep the noise down a bit.

Long time ago I joined a discussion on here about vehicle keys and the fact that Military vehicles have their own series of numbers not normally available to Joe Public. I only have one ignition key for the tanker, and I have a drivers door handle with no key.  Do have key numbers though 6/17 for the ignition and 11/17 for the door.

General opinion was "you'll be lucky finding those" Well, general opinion  wasn't counting on forum   member      Ian 43  who does keys and locks for a living.  Got a PM from him the other day saying he now has the codes and the blanks to produce a set of keys for the tanker.

Beer tokens changed hands and a couple of days later small parcel arrived containing 4 keys.  Ignition barrel was refurbished ages ago and was confident the spare keys would be good.  Not too sure how the door handle would go. With no key before I haven't done anything with it other than remove it from the old door.

Turns out it was well seized up, but a bit of patience and a lot of WD40 and she freed up nicely.


Bit confusing at first, because when locked, the handle is free to spin and doesn't engage in the door catch.  Handle has to be moved to the correct position, then the key can be turned locking the handle onto the actuating bar and the door can be opened.

Both keys work very nicely so many thanks Ian.

All I need now is to find a matching handle for the passengers door, but as the top half of the cab is still to be fitted, doors and handles are a long way down the line




  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 24/02/2018 at 10:14 PM, Zero-Five-Two said:

The patient is prepared, and the surgeons instruments are ready.  Seems wrong to be cutting up a new piece of kit, but needs must etc

I always look at this not as "cutting up a new part" but as buying a conveniently pre-assembled kit  of parts to save a bit of time. xD

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

After a couple of weekends of, what you might call, inclement weather.


Like a lot of the country, this was the view from our house.  Can't say I enjoyed going out for paying work in that lot, nevermind playing with bits of tanker.

Fortunately it never lasts too long, it's even warmed up a bit now, so it was good to get back on with a bit of tanker work on Sunday.  

First job, see if the new Iveco Cargo silencer really does fit.


Pleased to report it went on nicely and looks quite the part.  It's only a temporary fitting at the moment (notice the too long M10 bolt) there is a drip shield to fit over the top which has yet to be re-manufactured, but at least I know it's going to do the job.  

Can't wait to hear what it sounds like compared to the Timber Tractor. That has a JCB Fastrak silencer fitted and is a bit raucous to say the least.

Next up, the new tool bin door.


Not bad at all, and a bit of extra security for the diesel filler.  I'm debating whether to put a bit of a side plate on the bin itself, fill that corner in completely.

One slight error to deal with, the replacement hinges are "Metric" size, and have moved the door over a couple of millimertres


Meaning the padlock hasp no longer lines up, so a bit of cut and stick to do when I've next cot the welder on site.

The retaining bar for holding it open locks in very well


As usual, for every two steps forward there has to be one back, just to keep a grip on reality.  Went to fit the master switch box behind the drivers seat.  


The 2 legs it stands on are slightly different, and getting them the right way round and in the right place is critical otherwise they will foul the gear levers, or prevent the drivers seat frame from mounting correctly.  Whichever way round I seemed put them it just didn't sit right, and obviously I don't want to drill holes in the new floor until I'm confident of it's proper location.

What I needed, and didn't have at the time was a picture of it originally.


Back home in the comfort of the armchair, the problem is obvious, I've got the legs on back to front. So, send copy of this shot to my phone so I can have another go next week.

That said, might not have time for that.  Son Stuart is available, so we plan to have the front jacked up to check the drivers side wheel clears the silencer on full lock. And while we are at it, wheels off and evict the spiders and other livestock that are bound to be inhabiting the brake shoes.  

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So much for the big plan


Didn't fancy playing in the snow, and the east wind is lethal in the yard. So cancel the idea of removing wheels etc for another weekend  Oh for a nice bit of indoor storage with heating etc.  Just keep buying the lottery tickets.

Was a shade warmer in the home workshop, so plan  B, start on the blast skirt that fits under the back of the cab.  I can't decide if I been waiting for a convenient time to do it, or whether I've just been putting it off because I'm not sure how to do it.




As you can see it needs quite a bit of effort, and it is very delicate in places.

First job, drill out the rivets and reduce it to the component parts, so they csan be assessed as to what is saveable and what is beyond redemption.


Main bits and a small pile of crumbs that didn't make it this far.


Started with the top centre section, which is very delicate.  Basically it is a flat sheet, cut to shape and folded at each end.  Mounts onto a solid  length of angle iron, so that made measuring a lot easier.


Usual coating of Bondaprimer, and it looks good.


Next up is the 2 end corners, now these are going to be a different story.  Both sides are beyond repair and new bits need to be made.  Apart from the curve at one end, the most difficult bit is the rolled wired edge you can see on the left of the picture.

I've never made one of these before, and I've not found much information on the net about doing it.  So that is going to be a whole new learning experience. I'm open to advice and suggestions on how to, thanks.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob have a look at page 20/21 of my MWD resto  blog shows how I went about forming the wired edge it's a bit fiddly but satisfying job xD

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip, of course I couldn't just read the one page, ended up going through the whole blog.  4 mm rod on order and I'll be off round to Wickes tomorrow for a sheet of ply.  Watch this space.

Quick question, did you use any localised heat to help with the bending?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob just remembered you need to add 2.5 x the dia of the rod you're using so you have just enough steel to wrap around the wire, I didn't use any heat at all even on the tight radius curves of the mudgaurds. I found it best to sandwich the sheet steel between 2 sheets of 3/4" ply and then dress the sheet down 10 mm to form a right angle, turn it over then place the rod inside, dress over the sheet at each end to capture the rod then slowly dress the remaider over working up and down the peice gradually bending the sheet over the rod I used a pair of old style nail pincers to hold the rod tight to the radius. Like I said it' time consming and a bit fiddly but very satisfying,  I had a go on a bit of scrap as a practice before I got stuck in 😁

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't just sit there looking at these things, you've got to give it a go.  Early finish at work today so hammers at the ready and a few bits of scrap, have a shot at this wired edging malarkey.



First off, you DO NOT need one of these.  Advert said it was perfect for rolling wired edges.  Does some lovely patterns and crinkles, but rolling a wired edge, no chance!  Tried all sorts of roller combinations, but got nothing usable.

Had an idea for doing a straight length, use the sheet folder to turn the first edge up at a right angle, hold the rod in with a pair of pliars and tap it over.


Didn't come out too bad for a first go.  Need to practise the hammering to hit it square on so the hammer head doesn't dig in to the side.

So, now to try the corner radius.  Following Rampant Rivets advice, I cut 2 bits of 3/4 ply to a ninety degree corner, then shaved a nice tight radius.  Clamp the steel in between, allowing an extra 10mm  to do the edge.

Dress the edge over onto the ply, then holding the wire in with the pliars again, knock the fold right over


Finished up looking like this.  Not bad for a first effort.  Needs to be better though.

I think the sheet must have moved a little with the first fold, giving more than 10mm on the curve.  I seemed to be trying to turn over far too much metal, leaving the kink you can see. Also I only had a short piece of wire to practice with, and it was difficult to hold it in place.

The other thing I noticed, my first efforts were carried out using a piece of ply as an anvil, thinking that it would help protect the outside edge. But this is really too soft, much better when I moved over to the top of the vice.  Steel on steel gave a much better finish.

More wire should arrive later in the week, so I'll have another bash.  Need to acquire a decent size bit of iron to use as an anvil too

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob what thickness steel are you using ? too thick and its hard to dress ove the rod, especially the curves,  are you using a panel beating hammer ? When dressing the steel over its best to used lots of light blows working along the peice from one end to the other then repeating. 

Its hard to describe how to strike the hammer blows but I tried to catch the top edge vertically to start curving the sheet over the rod it's a time consuming job but gets easier with practice 😎 hope this helps some.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Practice piece was probably a little too thick 1.2 mm with galvanising on top.  Actual work piece will be 1 mm, so should turn over easier.  Plus, it was only held in the plywood with a couple of G clamps, so was a bit thrown together just for a quick test.

As for hammer choice, that's a laughing point round here.  I had a set of nasty Chinese ones for years, which did, sort of OK, then a couple of xmas's back, after much mickey taking, our Stuart got me a set of very sexy Snap On ones.  There's no question they are top notch tools and I'm not sure I do them justice banging away on rusty bits of Militant.

Went round to my local friendly engineering company today and was allowed to fish a chunk of RSJ out of the scrap bin to use as an anvil. Only trouble was when you hit on it, it rang like a church bell.  Couple of blocks of wood wedged in each side stopped that racket.  


Sits nicely on the workmate and a good height for working too

So, we're all good.  Got the right kit, know how to do it, just got to get the hands to do as they are told and we will create a masterpiece

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, weekends here, so off we go with the wired edge thing.  Practice over, have a go at the real thing.  2 sheets of 22 mm ply cut to shape with an 1 1/2" radius on one corner.


Cut the 1 mm steel sheet deliberately longer than required, so that there was plenty to clamp in the plywood.  Also, if it all goes wrong, there's enough spare to trim back and have another go.  Given my previous errors with a tape measure, this was measured and checked, then measured again several times before final clamping.

Then we begin, folding the first 90 degrees.  Rampant Rivet said loads of light taps to bend it round gently.  He wasn't joking!! Patience is the key, just keep tapping.  Got a bit concerned part way through as the radius started to kink up, but , be brave, just keep tapping, but knock the high spot of the kink down first.


Got it in the end, the first 90 degrees.

Need 2 bits, one for each end, so fresh sheet in and begin tapping again.  Had to keep a grip on things as I found myself tapping too hard, and bending too quickly.  Nearly made a pigs ear of the second sheet by being too cocky.


Got it though, and remembered to make them left and right handed.  

 Well pleased with it, so far.  Now comes the down side.  A certain courier company (H%rm@s) failed to deliver the 4 mm rod.  Got loads of nice Emails saying they were sorry for the delay, but didn't get any rod. So, all ahead stop.

There's always a plan B.  Other work just now has been the blast skirt.  Made to top half last week, so need to check it for fitting.  The further ongoing plan, ( Is that Plan C?) need to get the front wheels jacked up to check clearance on the exhaust silencer, and , at least the drivers side wheel off to allow me to get in and fit the air pipes up to the dashboard.


I was always taught you shouldn't use bricks for jacking up, as they may crumble, but I'm working on the theory of load spreading, here, and the wooden blocks in contact with the axle, should be OK.  

Now, the big question, does the wheel miss the silencer on full lock


And the short answer is a resounding NO!

There is a little movement available on the straps etc


And it's nearly, but not quite.  The extra diameter may only be 15 mm, but it makes a world of difference.  Bit of adjustment required here.

But not today.  Wheels off first to make room for fitting the Blast Skirt.


No fancy air guns available, big crack bar and growling. Much sweating later and both wheels are off.  


Brake and hub overhaul is on the list, but I've passed that one onto our Stuart, maybe next weekend, but no rush, we aren't going anywhere just yet.


Blast Skirt test fit.  Bit of fettling required, it's just catching the air pipes, but otherwise fits well.

Off side has a nice angle iron support to bolt to.


Near side appears to be held on by a single  3/16" bolt (Circled), and not a lot else.  There's no evidence of there ever been any other bracket to hold it up either.  I think it needs to be better, so measured up for an extra piece of angle iron to keep this side honest. I'll knock that up at home this week

Not a bad days work, but it's all on hold til the 4 mm rod arrives.  Mind you I could always get on with the air pipe fitting, or the brake clean up, so no chance of boredom!! 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer, Tony, I have got some big sleepers with the other truck, just need to collect them. The breeze blocks will do for now, there's six in each stack so the load is well distributed


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Easy enough mate. There is a trailer load of  four inch blokes in one of my trailers just up the road at my yard. Ten minutes to run them over. Saw the truck this morning, not going Golden on it are you? (Private joke) xD

Edited by Tony B

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...