Jump to content

Milly turbo removal, return to standard......


Recommended Posts

Well I finaly got around to it with some help and a push.

 

I got stuck in removing the turbo and injection system,

IMAG0189.jpg

IMAG0188.jpg

I also removed the various oil feeds for the fuel pump etc and spent a day prepping the replacment heads and pump etc.

Then it was time to lift the TL12 heads off,

IMAG0190.jpg

 

Looking good untill I checked the bores, the upper half inch of cylinder 5 liner is detached and knackerd !

 

IMAG0191.jpg

 

IMAG0192.jpg :cry::mad:

 

I have given it some thought and rather than risk more diappointment by replacing the liner in-situ and finding other problems later, engine change time.

Happy days

 

Iain

Edited by Mk3iain
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Engine change !

 

Here goes, it comes out the front, so the bumper, radiator etc have to come off. Everything is big and damn heavy and hurts.... but I am getting there. All fingers and other bits still intact, so far.

 

IMAG0194.jpg

IMAG0193.jpg

 

Until my more expert (ex REME) help is available, time to prep and paint the replacement.

 

IMAG0195.jpg

 

Should keep me out of trouble for a while.

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember back in my younger days changing many an engine in Mk1 Militants, through the front, with a jib slid over the forks on the forklift, The lifting eye is between the heads and the jib had to be close to top of engine to give enough clearance on cab front panel. We had a heavy old Conveyancer forklift in Workshops at the time, I would think an Eager Beaver might be light on the back end by the time you have the jib or beam stuck on the forks, with about 18cwt of AEC 760 stuck on it.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a bit of a challenge, I can experiment with the replacement engine to get it right hopefully... I have had two engines in a stillage on the forks before and it handled it OK. It will be different reaching in to the compartment and lifting it in and out but I am fairly confident, ish. ;)

 

Ill take picks pics of course.

 

Cheers

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there someone who overhauls these engines?

later when I get time I will look at sorting out the old engine if pos but I would need at least one new liner for this engine and possibly two more for another recon engine that suffered water damage in storage.

 

Cheers

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a full on job! I have to agree with everything being big and heavy. Having just re-built my o/s Mk3 swivel and hub with new wheel bearings, swivel bearings and seals, I managed without mangling any fingers. I hope all goes well without too many hitches!

 

Jules

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a full on job! I have to agree with everything being big and heavy. Having just re-built my o/s Mk3 swivel and hub with new wheel bearings, swivel bearings and seals, I managed without mangling any fingers. I hope all goes well without too many hitches!

 

Jules

 

I did the same job a couple of years ago on the gravel at my last house, made the mistake of letting a wheel lay down flat.I could not move it at all even with a great big lever! I needed to use the crane in the end.:red:

 

It is the best way to get to know the vehicle. (Trying to be positive).

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of interest Iain was that a 760 with a TL12 top end or a complete TL12?

 

It is a 760 with TL12 heads and injection system. So I have a kit of parts to turbo a 760. Problem with that in the Milly is that the turbo sticks into the passenger seat space and was noisey and hot etc. I just want the truck to be back to original spec with the passenger seat fitted and full engine cover panels.

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iain,

Were you able to locate the necessary gaskets OK? It will be interesting to see how the 'performance' differs once you are back to original spec. Do you think the liner damage was due to the turbocharging?

Cheers

Iain C

 

Hi Iain

I had tucked away a couple of engine gasket sets as they popped up on EBay,it would be good to find a source as I will be using bits from the sets.

I am not sure what the cause is for sure but I am suspicious of the turbo conversion, I have not had a good look at the rest of the liners etc yet. It is partly why I am changing the engine as I don't want to find any more problems later. It is a shame as the engine ran really nicely and showed no signs of a problem and the coolent was clean etc.

 

I am looking forward to checking out the performance but don't expect it to be very different, although with a complete set of engine panels it should be significantly quieter and more comfortable, all relative. :-)

I am on the lookout for a new clutch as it makes sense to stick a new one in while I have the chance.

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I may have to tackle the clutch sometime, bit it's such a mammoth task I'm putting it off for as long as I can! I don't think you will have any problem finding a clutch, but I have seen a reference in the manuals to a modification to the rear crankshaft 'seal' where a vertical small bore tube was inserted so as to better drain oil away from the scroll and keep it clear of the clutch. Might be worth checking when you have the new engine out for checking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are the two pages from the manual (I hope!). The rear 'seal' is called a wearing sleeve, and the text towards the foot of column 1 on the other page which refers to late engines describes the modification, and the reason for it. If you don't have the mod it sounds as if it would be quite easy to do.AEC Crankshaft txt.jpg

AEC Crankshaft pic.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Here are the two pages from the manual (I hope!). The rear 'seal' is called a wearing sleeve, and the text towards the foot of column 1 on the other page which refers to late engines describes the modification, and the reason for it. If you don't have the mod it sounds as if it would be quite easy to do.[ATTACH=CONFIG]109326[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]109327[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks Iain

 

There are no mod plates on the recon engines but I am assured that this would/should have been done....

It all seemed good and oil free when I pulled the old engine out other than grease from the bearing hose that had split.

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update time!

 

I pulled the engine, eventually, after removing loads of plumbing etc etc I used one fork on the EB with an extension and it worked a treat with no sign of the rear lifting. Happy days.

 

So time to swap bits etc

IMAG0211.jpg

 

Before I get around to fitting the new engine I am going to spend a bit of time in the engine bay cleaning, painting and servicing all those hard to get at parts such as the handbrake and clutch. Still loads of plumbing in there...

While I'm at it the cab will get done, its mostly stripped anyway.

IMAG0210.jpg

 

The clutch looked unworn but the bearing is a bit noisey no doubt due to the greasing hose being split so I am after a new one if anyone can help ?

More later

 

Iain

IMAG0209.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you find the new engine, and would you have been able to remove the old one the way you did if the heads had still been fitted?

Should look really good once it's all clean and painted. Are you going to run it on the floor for a while to check for oil leaks etc? Really easy to work on while it's sitting on the floor compared to when it's back in the wagon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you find the new engine, and would you have been able to remove the old one the way you did if the heads had still been fitted?

Should look really good once it's all clean and painted. Are you going to run it on the floor for a while to check for oil leaks etc? Really easy to work on while it's sitting on the floor compared to when it's back in the wagon.

 

Hi Iain

I found the engine at a company that had loads of them and put them and sheds loads of other kit up for auction, I ended up with some at a very reasonable cost....

They are Winchester Marine, I think they still have some more! Worth a call.

 

Winchester Marine Ltd

The Old Grainstores

Manby Middlegate

Manby Louth

Linconshire LN11 8UT tel. 01507 327100

 

I did put the heads back on as they support the lift point, it uses two of the head studs.

The new(recon) is in a stand that should be OK to run in, I would like to give it a go. Meanwhile I'll spend some time sorting out the cab and engine bay.

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Iain. Looking forward to the next set of pictures!

P.S. Contacted Winchester, but it looks like you got the last one. They have plenty of other good looking units by different manufacturers so it will be interesting to see how you get on with yours. No doubt there were warehouses full of these things at one time!

Edited by Iain Crosbie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hopefully I should be fitting the engine this weekend after a few false starts. I'll post some pics.

 

I am unsure about the fuel injection pump. The oil level hole had a plastic plug waiting for a fitting on installation. As it was a completely different Bosch pump that came off my only reference is the pump on spares Milly and this has a banjo fitting but it is just the union with no pipe attached and so the void is open to atmosphere. How should this be ?

Is this just left open which seems wrong as oil would just splash out or should it be plumbed into somewhere or even plugged? I cannot tell by looking at parts books or manuals.....

 

Many thanks

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote=Mk3iain;461696

I am unsure about the fuel injection pump. The oil level hole had a plastic plug waiting for a fitting on installation. As it was a completely different Bosch pump that came off my only reference is the pump on spares Milly and this has a banjo fitting but it is just the union with no pipe attached and so the void is open to atmosphere. How should this be ?

Is this just left open which seems wrong as oil would just splash out or should it be plumbed into somewhere or even plugged? I cannot tell by looking at parts books or manuals.....

 

Many thanks

Iain

 

All I could picture was a Simms Minimec in-line pump(not knowing what type you have fitted) and suspect that this would be for the pump overflow pipe, it would probably have a short piece of pipe attached to the banjo union pointing down.

From a Ford 2700 range service manual-

 

"The camshaft and governor housing are filled with engine oil through a filler plug on top of the governor housing. Fuel oil leakage from the plungers mixes with this oil, the surplus being drained by an overflow pipe at the front of the injection pump"

 

Not very environmentally friendly really, I suppose you could divert in to an oil catch tank and dispose of when carrying out maintenance/inspections.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...