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Ron

My latest project

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After stripping the frame to bare metal and starting to get some coats of high build primer on, I just remembered that the rear foot brake is off a model C. The original was a crossover operated by a cable.

 

I already have a model C brake pedal, and I've had to calculate the position for, and weld on the pivot spindle. Lots of zooming in on pictures and scaling up. But I can now get back to priming.

 

I've also noted that the pedal fitted to this EXP bike is longer than standard, so some more scaling before it can be cut and extended. Ron

EXP DC 180.jpg

448.JPG

Edited by Ron

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Model 'C' wheels and forks in a model 'D' frame. Ron

EXP DC 217.jpg

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Nice work Ron! It starts to look like a motorcycle! :o)

 

As you know, I've been thinking about the oil tank cum air filter on this Experimental Lightweight. It doesn't look like anything that Enfield has ever made... For as far as I can see, it's a combined air filter - oil tank, never seen anything like this before...

 

Perspective view:

Schermafbeelding%202015-11-07%20om%2020.32.51.png

 

Left hand side view (oil tank cum air filter behind the toolbox):

Schermafbeelding%202015-11-07%20om%2020.31.21.png

 

Right hand side view:

Schermafbeelding%202015-11-07%20om%2020.31.42.png

 

I think that this is the principle:

 

Naamloos.png

 

Air enters through the louvres, behind which is a gauze air filter. The air circulates around the oil tank, which helps cooling the oil. Or am I missing something? Has anybody got a better theory?

 

Jan

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Or maybe the air filter at the back has just got a tube running through the oil tank. Would that make it a lot simpler Jan? Ron

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Good point Ron, that would indeed be another possibility... Have to think about this! :o)

 

Cheers,

Jan

So can anyone out there suggest an oil tank from any make/model that looks something like this? Please don't be shy, any ideas will be gratefully received. Ron

Schermafbeelding 2015-11-07 om 20.32.51.jpg

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Well no response on my last post.

 

After lots of scaling and measuring and not without some patience from Simon "Renovation Spares" I have acquired mudguard blanks with a satisfactory look and radius. Especially critical for the front stand off guard.

 

Yesterday I spent a full day on the front guard, fitting, fettling and making stays. I think it replicates the factory pictures quite well.

 

Ron

EXP DC 254.jpg

scan-151112-0002.jpg

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Looking great Ron, been thinking what oil tank can be a match for your project.

It is really a square tank on the pictures and the only tank that is also square is the Norton 16H tank but still there will be a lot of modification on this type of tank if you want to make a copy for you Royal.

 

Guy

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Thanks for the votes of confidence Niels/Guy!

 

Guy I thought an Ariel W/NG tank looked similar, but again, so much modification needed. Jan is using his metal working skills to help me with this, and he thinks that unless we find an almost perfect match in shape, it might be just as well to make one from scratch.

 

In the mean time I'll concentrate on the mudguards and the model C front pipe that I picked up from Armours today......Which also needs modifying. Ron

Edited by Ron

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I was looking at the excellent diagram of the oil tank ..and then viewed the photos , I then considered how would you dismantle or repair the unit ..The rear photo has impressed lines and this suggested to me that the oil tank was mounted on the rear plate ..The entire front section would be removable ..C exposing the cap and and tube for filling ...)

 

The rear Photo suggests that the unit is wider at the front and steps by a good few inches ..so unfortunately your top section in the drawing does not look correct ..I suspect the air flows in front of the oil tank and exterior casing is a sort of fat L..

 

I think the rear photo holds a lot of clues ..

 

Jenkinov

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Thanks for your input Jenk. I think I need to re-read your post and study the pictures at the same time to get the jist of your thoughts.

 

I think Jan will agree with me that his first thoughts on how the oil tank combine air filter works is over complicated. If you simply pass a 40-50mm tube through the oil tank (welded at both ends) then you have a simple ducting to the gauze filter at the back. There's nothing new in that. Velo's have a tube for the clutch cable to run right through the oil tank and some BSA's have it for a speedo cable. Ron

 

PS just to be clear, on the left side of the bike, opposite to the oil tank, is a standard Enfield tool box which has nothing to do with the oil tank.

Edited by Ron

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Ron ..seems I should not pursue a career as a forensic photo analyst as I had grafted the toolkit onto the back of the oil tank/air filter ..

 

On re examination can iI confirm your diagram is perfect ....and your suggestion to run a pipe through the oil tank would improve cooling and be a direct flow to the carb...

 

Jenkinov

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No problem Jenk. Now though, between myself and my Belgium friends, we have concluded that the forks on the original experimental bikes are actually 1" (25mm) longer than standard. So I must pull the forks off and ask my local engineer to lengthen them by adding a 1" spigot into the tubes......Bugger! Ron

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Are you sure about the extra inch on the fork looking at the old picture and the on yours the centre nut on the hub seems to be in the same height as the engine bolt on both pictures

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Ha Ha Niels! Altering the length of the forks, won't make any difference to the wheel spindle height! Look at the gap between the top of the mudguard and the damper knob. I hadn't noticed this difference in fork length until after I'd put it all together.....Bugger!

 

Ron

 

Ah sorry Niels, I get your drift now. Of course the frame height will alter. But we have done some scaling to find that the forks from the damper to wheel spindle is 1" longer than standard forks. And of course mine is sat on a log with no weight on the forks yet.

Edited by Ron

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And this weekend I have fitted up the rear of the bike with the carrier and number plate that Jan made for me. I've now got to strip it all apart again. Ron

EXP DC 257.jpg

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My forks are back from the engineer and have been extended by 1" and I'm in the process of re-painting them.

 

The petrol tank that I'm using is from a pre war hand change model D, and although it is the same shape and size, there are some differences to attend to.

 

The rear mounting is different and there is only one petrol tap with balance pipe. I have made suitable brackets. Two petrol tap adaptors will have to be welded in, in the correct location. I will simply plug the obsolete tap and balance tube holes. Ron

EXP DC 261.jpg

EXP DC 263.jpg

EXP DC 264.jpg

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Ah, there you are Steve! I was beginning to worry! Ron [:))]

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And with the longer forks fitted and more Khaki Green. Ron

EXP DC 267.jpg

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Ron, the forks are looking much more as per the photo now...but the centre stand is looking a little short...and are you going to have to do something with the rear tubes to lift the back end ? I assume there is no room for a 4.00 rear tyre ? Colonel Bowden liked 'em though. He'd have fitted 4.00 comp tyres on the back of everything.

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Rik I can't see any difference in the rear frame and I'd draw the line at trying to guess any modification to it. I won't be trying to fit a 400 either. The tyre is as close to the mudguard as I'd want. Strange that they didn't go for a gappy one like the front? Especially considering the mud that a knobbly could collect. I put a block under the centre stand to raise it up to get the front wheel in. I'll see what happens when I remove it, but could do with another pair of hands for that. If necessary, I'll do some alterations to the stops and/or feet.

 

I'm not bloody well working in a vast factory you know! Where some draughtsman sends a drawing down to the factory floor and the shop foreman details this or that bloke to machine something up........I'm just me in my shed!

 

Ron

EXP DC 273.jpg

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