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restoration of a valentine MK5 tank started


monty2

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Final Drives are now all stripped and the housings are being processed. The second pictures shows the main shaft that goes through the final drive and this outer flange is what the brake drum attaches to. Main housings and sprockets are blasted and given a 2-pot epoxy prime. This is our special brew , that is green in colour, so any wearing of the paint surface when the vehicle is in use would only show green. This paint product was used on our America's Cup yachts, so is tried and tested. Great for a DD Tank! Cheers from The Tank Factory.

 

Absolutely blown away by your work ! Is inspiring me to crack with my own humble project! Please advise make and specificaton on the coloured primer you use..it sound like a great idea!

Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

The radiators have been pulled from storage, so we can check condition , etc. The radiators on the Valentine consist of two mounted at the back over the gearbox area, on a slope of something like a 45 degree angle. They lay flat on this angle but can swivel where they are connected to at the top and bottom header tanks, so you can get limited access to the gearbox .We have stripped all the top and bottom tanks and these are getting all new laser cut gaskets, with all threads cleaned out and new bolts. We have some boxes of new graphite packings, which is really good, so all the new joints where the radiators swivel will get these . The radiators themselves appear pretty good so have opted to not disturbed the top and bottom tanks as the seals look very good on these.Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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  • 3 weeks later...

one of the forum members, danny152 dug up the remains of 6 covenanters from an old range in north devon a few years back but nobody wanted them and they all got scrapped. pretty sad state of affairs the way we treat our ww2 armour. i can't imagine 6 tigers getting scrapped !

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Ahh, yes the Covenanter, the "sports car" model of Tank. I am lining up a slot in the Tank Factory in the near future to start the restoration of said vehicle. Just picked up some brand new starter motors and generators for her the other day, Simms type, which are more uncommon than the usual CAV electricals.

Back to the Valentine ; shown is the fan ducting to the radiators. I have had to fabricate these, as this sheet metal work usually gets the chop when the engines get pulled out from when the Tanks were disposed of. I have also had to fabricate the L/H gearbox mount as this was missing also. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A few little fittings for the engine bay; we have the control rod cover for the lower R/H side. This pretty much has to go in before R/H gearbox mount is fitted. Then we have the 3 x upper fuel tank straps for securing the tank to the wall. Next is the fuel tank fitted into the L/H side of the engine bay, a really snug fit, as you will see later on , the tolerances are only about 1/2" to spare. The last two pics show the Engine bay ready to take the engine for the final time. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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The engine is lowered in ( approx. 10 degree angle ) for the final time after several trial fits for clearances and pipework issues that have been sorted.

The second pic shows the "quick coupling " connection with 8 x 1/2" BSF bolts to each of the steering clutches. The last pic shows the clearance for the generator to the fuel tank , that I had eluded to earlier. Either it was good luck or well designed piece of British engineering! Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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With the motor finally seated into position, the plumbing up and electrical connections can be connected now. The first couple of pics show the fan shrouds along with their protective guards ready for reinstallation and now installed. Then the next sequence is the fitting up of the fan blades. There is offside and nearside, nearside being the L/H side of the Tank. The blades counter rotate and suck the air from the turret area across the engine and out through the two radiators. Next, the oil cooler is installed, which is a solid neat fit across the width of the Tank. The final pipe work for the oil cooler and radiator bottom tank outlet is also installed now as well. There is also a 1/2" cooper tube that is fitted underneath the bevel box that goes to the gearbox as an oil level balance tube, it is important that when taking the engine out at anytime , that you remember to remove this pipe as it goes through the cross member that the steering clutches sit on and you will rip it in half , if you forget about it! Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Yes, it was an interesting Earthquake! Officially it was upgraded to a 7.9 and I think they have said there has been at least 1500 aftershocks since it happened, some ranging to 6.5. Things have settled down now. To put it in perspective they say that it was up to 50 times stronger than the Christchurch (NZ ) earthquake we had a couple of years ago that killed about 250 people, where as this one took two lives because it happened in a less populated area. Some costal land was raised out of the seabed by 1 to 2 mitres. The Tank factory still forges ahead!

Today we have the steel work for the radiator header tank , which sits above the fan should. This piece is now installed and you can see the radiator header tank tucked up inside this housing, very snug fit, sits on little 1/2" thick felt pads. Also in behind the oil cooler you can see a 1/4"water tube from the main bottom water pipe up to the header tank .The third pic shows an extra steel plate that covers over across the width of the header tank. The rear transmission doors will partly close down on top of this when shut. The last couple of pics show the engine air box drain "catch can" and the position where this is located. This needs to be installed before the rads go in, as there is getting less and less working room in the backend.

The air box on the engine, which is the cavity between the cylinder liners and the engine block wall has 2 x 3/8" pipes draining excess oil residue down these lines to the "catch can ". There is a check valve in each line that opens when idling and closes when pressures get above 1.5psi , as revs increase, other wise there would be a continuous drain of oily residue when engine is running all the time. I installed a handy tap which you can empty any fluid to the outside of the hull will little trouble. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Next in line are the 2 x radiators to be installed, L/H and R/H. I think originally they were installed in the factory as one big unit comprising the header tank. 2 x rads and the bottom tank. We have opted to install them individually , but at times this can be tricky to line up the outlets with the graphite packings , that you have to be careful not to damage. Once installed the radiators can pivot on these packings without leaking water, so you can gain access to the gearbox dipstick and also the "catch can". There is a big bronze ring that you just tighten down with the special spanner and that puts pressure on the packings to swell and seal the water in . Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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Edited by Andrew Rowe
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A few more parts heading for the protective coatings division. We have the four fold down flaps in the engine bay area, that the engine cover rests on. The pintle hook . There is the rear bevel box transmission flap and side plates that bolt onto the rear of the Tank. Also you can see the linkages and spring catches that attach to these plates for locking and unlocking this door flap. It appears that when you pull a cable the flap pops up, because it is under sprung tension from these little leaf springs, this is enough to get your fingers in to fold the flap back, being a one-man operation, such is the detail and thoughtfulness of the design engineers!. The last one shows the original engine covers , that were usually thrown in the scrap bin when engines were pulled out when the Tanks were disposed of in the 1960's. Cheers from The Tank Factory.

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