john1950 Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 I think sometimes the designers lost sight of the fact, that these machines had to be maintained and have major repairs carried out in the field under fire. Also under atrocious weather conditions. Design and Testing must have taken an inordinate amount of time and expense when I would have thought simplicity and speed would have been the name of the game. Never the less It gives people like you the opportunity to shine and show just what standard of work is achievable, in the new electronic age. Your thread is really testament to your work ethic. I take my hat off to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Thanks John 1950 for your kind words, we are just a couple of guys giving an honest attempt, looking for a quality restoration. The theory is aim high and see where we end up with the restoration at the end. The other day we have started the engine and she runs very smooth. Exhaust smoke appears to be very minimal , so I think we have achieved that goal with the right mix of injectors and compression ratio for the pistons. We installed a fuel pressure gauge to determine the PSI of fuel running in the engine and found that it was 10psi at idle, which is correct, but when engine rpm increased to 1500 it was going to 75psi and hitting the relief valve, but still holding at 70psi, which was far too high. When engine is running between 1800 and 2000 rpm, we should be at about 60psi of fuel pressure, I think that equates to about a gallon an hour for a standard inline 671 2-valve head. The problem being, that at the end of the return fuel tube that is fitted to the head, there is a fitting that has a small hole in it, and that is what restricts the fuel returning to the fuel tank and gives you the right pressure for the injectors to run at. This hole dia. should be about 80 thou, which I worked out at about 2mm. We appeared to have a hole about 1.75mm in dia. Drilled the hole out , and it looks like the problem is solved, when increased to 1500rpm we are running at 50 psi and not hitting the relief valve, such a simple thing like that you would not believe!. The starter motor works extremely well, turning engine over at a very good speed, so that mod. we did to the drive pinion on a new starter, engages ring gear really nicely as well. Engine runs slightly over 40psi of oil pressure and drops to 20 psi at idle, which is what should be expected. The battery generator seems to be performing what it is suppose to do as charge light goes on when you power up and when engine is started goes to 20 amps and eases back to 0amps under running conditions with no load. We had a couple of oil leaks from the filter housings, and found that the rim surface that mates to the seal needs to be perfect. We did change one from nitrile to 2mm cork on the by-pass filter housing and this solved the problem extremely well. Cheers from the Tank Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 With another load of steel work blasted and painted , this can all be fitted. First pic shows the rear trans. locking catch, then the towing pintle and engine door side flaps and engine cover lock. The last pic shows the 2 x grease cups for each side of the steering clutch packs that are used to grease the internal bearing. Cheers from The Tank Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Nailing the Hatches down! , only the rear Transmission doors left to go. Cheers from The Tank Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Out Pickin' , Barn find of the day! , a Mk2. Cheers from The Tank Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Out Pickin' , Barn find of the day! , a Mk2. Cheers from The Tank Factory. Really, you find this in a barn? No chance finding something like that on the other side of the planet from you. Sooooo, will this get restored or are there too many missing bits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 i'd like a valentine one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 i'd like a valentine one day Maybe someone will send you one ............ on 14th February :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) The Tank was next to the Barn , the parts were in it. Cheers Andrew Edited December 12, 2016 by Andrew Rowe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) After 20 years of sitting in the Barn! Cheers Andrew Edited April 16, 2017 by Andrew Rowe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben.. Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Awesome, nice find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Some of the finer points of the restoration are being worked on now. The Periscopes are quite an intricate piece of work ! There are 4 required per Tank. Two for the diver that have U-shaped handles and 2 inside the roof of the turret that have small knobs for handles, there are a few different Mk's / models ,but essentially do the same job. When driving, the field of vision is surprisingly quite good through these. Cheers from The Tank Factory. If anyone out there has a few spares or parts out there I would be extremely interested, PM me, Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 why did they make them so complicated !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 why did they make them so complicated !!!! Design Spec: 1) Useful to drive a tank while looking through. 2) Bulletproof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 (edited) A couple more pics of the periscope for the driver showing external armoured hood. Next we have the 2 x front headlights and conduit. These are the 8" CAV type, as used also on the English and Loyd carriers, but with different conduit fitting for the back of the shell. Then we have the outside bracket for the "gong" push button. This rings the bell inside to get the crews attention. Next is the group of catches and mudguard fittings for the 2 x stay brackets to attach to when the rear transmission doors are open. Very important that these stay rods are use to secure the doors back when open, as a guillotining operation will happen if you not careful! The knurled knobs for securing are 5/8" BSW, about the only time BSW thread is used on the Tank. Next little bracket is a protective cover for the cable release for the external fuel drop tank, mounts on the mudguard, back left hand corner. 2nd to last pic shows the external protective cap for the radiator filler cap. To open this you first have to pull the release cable in the engine compartment above the fuel tank to work the catch that locks it. Last pic shows the mirror arm and cast brackets ( complete with shrapnel damage ! ) that will mount to the front R/H corner on the mudguards. Cheers from The Tank Factory. Edited December 17, 2016 by Andrew Rowe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddy Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Then we have the outside bracket for the "gong" push button. This rings the bell inside to get the crews attention. I bet they never answered - you never know if it'll be the Jehova's Witnesses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 I bet they never answered - you never know if it'll be the Jehova's Witnesses! There's one of those works for the bus shelter maitainence company round my way. Adds a whole new worry to stopping on stand at night! :sweat: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 These are the 8" CAV type, as used also on the English and Loyd carriers... Interesting seeing that photo, I think I have some lenses and reflectors for these. I'll have to have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 We fitted the drivers doors the other day, and made an interesting observation about their design. I did not realise at the time when I removed the doors from the Tank that the 9mm rod that went through the middle of the hinges, was in fact a torque rod. The weight of one door is at least 50 - 60Kg, which you sort of struggle with lifting it by hand. The old rods were rusted and destroyed getting the doors apart. So when we came to reinstall the refurbished doors we discovered that we needed these new rods, so a bit of a search around and the next day I had some turning up, with spares in case we had to play around with the first couple to get things to work. The doors now virtually open from inside with the push of a finger!( well almost! ). It is another little piece of design and attention to detail that we have come across , that impresses us about the manufacture of the Valentine. Picture shows components required for one door , top of pic is the brass hand locking catch with release cable. This works by, as you grab the inside door handle, you grab hold of the release cable at the same time, which pulls the plunger in , the door pops up as it is under tension from the torque rod, and you open it back onto it's resting pad .Cheers from The Tank Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrev Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Andrew Can you please go into more detail as to how the torque rods are anchored? Also, how do the thicker stubby rods factor into this? Regards Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surveyor Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Not being mechanical minded but learning I do like the way you lay out all parts and give an explanation of the parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Andrew Can you please go into more detail as to how the torque rods are anchored? Also, how do the thicker stubby rods factor into this? Regards Doug I was thinking the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Rowe Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 The stubs that stick out on the hinges go into corresponding holes in the hull, a bit like a safe door , cut the hinges, but you still can not get the door open, ( explosion proof ? ) The second picture shows the 2 x tapered pegs, ( 9/16" dia. hardened ), one end picks up a flat on the torque rod for the door, and the other end picks up another flat spot on the rod and this pegs into an end cap that is attached to the hull and independent of the door. So when door is opened, a twisting effect is loaded on the 9mm rod, giving it a spring like action. The trick is when making these rods is to get the flats in the right offsets, so as to give you just enough tension, but not too much, as they are only little rods and would break, also do not grind flats too deep , as this would create a weak point as well. Cheers Andrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 The stubs that stick out on the hinges go into corresponding holes in the hull, a bit like a safe door , cut the hinges, but you still can not get the door open, ( explosion proof ? )The second picture shows the 2 x tapered pegs, ( 9/16" dia. hardened ), one end picks up a flat on the torque rod for the door, and the other end picks up another flat spot on the rod and this pegs into an end cap that is attached to the hull and independent of the door. So when door is opened, a twisting effect is loaded on the 9mm rod, giving it a spring like action. The trick is when making these rods is to get the flats in the right offsets, so as to give you just enough tension, but not too much, as they are only little rods and would break, also do not grind flats too deep , as this would create a weak point as well. Cheers Andrew. Hi Andrew, I have a similar task to do, turret flaps on an armoured car, but this one has a square section length of torsion bar, only 1/4" square. The originals have split. They are designed to close the hatch over from the secured open position probably about 170 degrees of arc, allowing the crew to grab a strap and pull it fully shut, all without coming out of the turret. Finding it hard to locate 1/4" torsion bar. Enjoying your rebuild thread, excellent work. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Finding it hard to locate 1/4" torsion bar. https://www.coventry-grinders.co.uk/product/imperial-gauge-plate/ Lists 1/4" x 1/4" gauge plate 18" long, 36" on request. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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