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Chris_Collins

Morris Tilly late model

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So I cut a piece of sheet to size and gave it a go. I allowed a few extra mm all round in case the pressing pulled in slightly. It didn't seem to move at all so once it was done it was a simple matter of scribing around the top template and cutting out with tinsnips.
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It would seem a lot of effort just to press out two seat bases but I will get more out of the die. The seat base frame is light right angle fold in 2mm steel. I will use the top template to form that angle around. Also the seat legs have the same profile as the front of the seat base and are made of 3mm angle iron. I can use the same template to form them.

I have since convinced Nick to give me lessons in CAD drawing.
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To prepare for the seat base frame I had a piece of 2mm strip folded to the correct dimension. I ground a round edge on the top of the template to accommodate the curve of the strip of now angle. I was able to use the cross cavity to anchor clamps and supports to secure the angle and with a bit of heat worked the angle around the template. It puckered in the corner as is went which I expected and it was just a case of heating the pucker up and hammering it down.
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Next is the legs of the seats. This is made from standard 3mm x 25mm angle iron but is trimmed down to 18mm on one side so first was to cut off the excess on one side. I will do these as eight bends on the lager radius of the template and then weld them in the centre where required to get the correct shape and size.
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With the legs bent up and joined I added them to the base frame and also added the adjusting mechanism and the claws that locate the legs to the floor frame.
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I drilled holes around the edge of the seat base to plug weld to the frame and turned down some half inch bolts to match the stepped bolts that hinge the to seat halves together.
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That almost completes the bottom half. The seat back on the complete set of seats we have are not good enough to use so I will make two sets of those.
There is a reinforced section on the bottom which has two small pressings which take the weight of the seat back against the legs. The first thing to do was unpick the wire edge and fold out the frame for a pattern.
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I had some sheet metal folded and scribed the shape onto it. I cut a piece of 10mm bar the same shape to dress the edge and folded a new piece of 4mm wire into the edge using a pair of pliers.
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I used welding rods to get the correct size round to make the small keepers for the seat cushion straps.
small tabs were added to the seat back and holes drilled to attach. Apart from adding the handbook pocket to the rear of the drivers seat these seats are complete.
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Quick Update:

I've been away in the old country for 5 weeks or so, had a grand time, met Rampant_rivet at Caldicott Castle and saw his brilliant Bedford MW, and amongst other things sent my steering wheel frames to Steering wheel Restorations in Kent.  They were basket cases the resin castings completely gone, though thankfully the frames were sound.

 I striped off the old resin, careful use of a dremel patience and thoughtful application of a screwdriver and hammer!

When cutting into the resin, I noticed they were an odd shade of "pea/Toy soldier Green" they weren't the Bakelite I thought they might have been.  A suprisingly soft material despite its age, very good at clogging up dremel bits!

We sandblasted and primed the frames, and that's where things stalled, it was a low priority at that stage and the shipping to the UK would be rather steep. My trip to the UK meant I could save a few dollars on postage so i boxed them up stuffed them into my suitcase, and when the opportunity arrived I sent them, and hoped for the best.

after hearing nothing for a few days I rang them, fearing they were lost in the post, "yeah, we recieved them a few days ago, I've just pulled the first one out of the mould, and the second one should be done monday"  Wow, I was expecting months.  That was just before bank holiday weekend,. I recieved them Wednesday evening, and i couldn't be happier and  at the first opportunity I took them down to Johns place and popped them on the Tilly!  They even did a reasonable job matching the green!

 

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A belated update...

Hello all,

appologies for a lack of activity, There has been progress but its slowed somewhat. We had been waiting for a loom for some time, but eventually got it from a local supplier of Vintage looms. Engine and gearbox mounts were few and far between so we contacted Old Era services who fabricated new dies and refurbished our old mounts, and did an amazing job.

Mean while our friend and Morris Register of Victoria Techo Rod Smith, assessed our engine collection, three Tilly engines and two Morris 10 engines, and began work. on our first tilly we will use the SU carby as used on the morris 10 as we only have one Tilly carburettor (SOLEX 30 HBFDO). i do wonder if the Solex will be a weakness, as the SU has such a good name for reliability. No matter thats what they had, and I'd like to get a second one day, but there will be plenty of time for that.

sadly only one Original Tilly block was usable, so we've settled on using a car block modified to Tilly spec using bits ratted from the Tilly engines to build the second engine, sadly there aren't a lot of detailed photos other than a general impression of progress. See below.
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John has fitted a door as well and fabricated new tilt bows as well but has yet to post the details of those, (although I was sure we did....)

I'm also waiting a new batch of SCC.2 Brown from my local auto colour matcher, its low on his priorities but he's a nice old chap and has a good eye and works just over the road from where I do, so i'll just have to keep prodding him. fryingpan.gif

hopefully things might start happening again, Shed leave tickets seem hard to come by these days. pout.gif.

Need to get down to johns. and measure things up so Mr Brown of PegasusDrive can crack on with the canvas

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