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Chris_Collins

Morris Tilly late model

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More Progress from John,

 

"I cut a bit further along this rusty section of sub frame as it had another pin holed area a few centimetres further down so rather than have two small patches I put in one bigger one. You can also see holes drilled in the ribs in the floor. The previous onwer had stored the car outside and to prevent water sitting in the ribs he drilled drain holes. doh.gif Luckily he periodically smothered the whole vehicle in lanoline which had crept into everywhere and helped preserve it. All these holes need welding up as well as some extra holes in the floor where the cars had attaching pins to retain carpet and different seat mounting holes. "

 

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"Next to attach the passenger seat re-inforcing panel and seat brackets I drilled some holes in the floor so I could plug weld from the top to the panel and brackets. To get the panel and brackets to sit tight I lowered the body onto a chisel and block of wood and moved it after each weld. To align the seat brackets I bolted up the top side of the seat mount and then removed it once I had then brackets in the correct position with the chisel. "

 

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Next was the two panels that re-inforce the floor. I had previously removed these from the rusty Tilly as they are not part of a car chassis. Once again holes were drilled to plug weld. Then grind up the welds and touch up with primer. I need to get a worn down grinding disc to finish grinding up the welds in the ribs. Small enough to fit the radius at the end of the rib.

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Despite the rear body side panels appearing straight(ish) in most photos, none of them are good enough to use. Either too dented, bent or rusted or containing too many additional holes we considered they would detract from the final appearance if the rest of the bodies come up as good as we expect.

 

So new panels were decided on. The front and top folds were done at our local steel supplier and the rest of the forming will be done by hand.

 

Chris gave them a coat of primer to protect them pending further work.

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More news from John Neville. "I am at the stage where I want to install the B pillars and attach the rear chassis rails and floor. I clamped the B pillars onto the chassis and hung the drivers door on its hinges to make sure it lined up properly. It did almost but not quite. The B pillar hinges have no adjustment but there is about 6mm adjustment on the door hinge. The best way i think will be to position the door and adjust it to the opening as best I can lining up the gaps and catches before I weld the B pillar. To make it a bit easier I decided to strip the doors now and lighten the load. This drivers door is in very sound condition including very good interior timber trim. Under the dilapidated bailey channel is a very good sample of original paint color, although Chris is going with a mid war brown for these restos. "

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Edited by Chris_Collins

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"The doors will all need new glass and bailey channel. the windows raise and lower through an interesting set up with four pulleys and thin wire cable running through a gear on the window winder operating on a short section of wire chain. "

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Edited by Chris_Collins

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"A bit of heat to loosen the hinge bolts. There are two different size bolts for the top and bottom hinge. And the rotten bailey channel. "

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Edited by Chris_Collins

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More Updates From John,

 

The cab with the drivers door fitted and showing the difference between where the door wants to sit and where I want the door to sit.

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I thought the passenger door was as good as the dirvers dide but I noticed some rot in the bottom skin. On closer inspection you can see that the entire bottom haf of the door skin has been replaced at some stage and the join just below the rib was leadwiped.

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These are the other five doors I have to work with to find another pair. These two from the original rusty Tilly are very solid and only surface rusted. Unfortunately someone sat a large excavotor bucket on the roof and crushed the top half of each door.

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"Next to attach the passenger seat re-inforcing panel and seat brackets I drilled some holes in the floor so I could plug weld from the top to the panel and brackets. To get the panel and brackets to sit tight I lowered the body onto a chisel and block of wood and moved it after each weld.

 

I seen on youtube restoration guys in the states use magnetically attached blocks of copper on the back sides of welds to disappate heat and apparently leaves a flusher finish. You can buy them on ebay.... but your cold chisel process got me thinking a 4mm bit of copper bus bar sandwiched in would be interesting

 

Found the link

Edited by fesm_ndt

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The best tops and bottoms of the inner frames were cut out and will be rejoined and reskinned when I have them all either sandblasted or derusted in the electrolysis bath. This is what I ended up with. The second photo shows what I had to compare with.

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Because the end plate position is integral to the two halves of the windscreen joining together properly I did not want to disturb that part on either side. So to effect the repair I cut a small section out, fabricated a repair piece and wleded that in. The next piece was removed and replaced and so on, working my way around the damaged area one small piece at a time.

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I should have added, that before each patch was welded in, I had to cut out the next pice or part cut it out as each new patch prevented grinder or tin snip access.

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The first side took about four hours and I was pretty happy with it. Will need some filler to tidy it up but it trial fitted perfectly and has got solid metal. The other pillar will be almost the same repair.

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Both pillars are now done and a trial fit found them slightly misaligned which I did expect. They bolted down neatly so I heated both to relieve any stress that would have lead to cracking.

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