Tony Lawrence Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Last week we took the engine off the stand and turned it round to enable the flywheel and front engine casting and mount to be fitted. Before we did that there was the matter of fitting a new fan belt which was a bit of a struggle as the new belt was very tight but by knocking it into the pulley grooves and brute force we managed. I have now fitted the flywheel and casting - again a very precise sequence of events beginning with the engine back plate, followed by the flywheel and then the flywheel bearing. |This bearing had to be fitted to the mount casting before the casting was fitted to the back plate, not forgetting to put the two large compressor drive belts in place before attaching the casting. In order to change these belts the engine would have to be removed! Anyway, all is now in place and the next step is to fit the engine onto the trailer, remembering to fit the radiator fan blade belt over it's pulley before tightening down. A job for next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Good progress! I have 3 tilly engines the same and will do a rebuild on 1 or 2 of them. I'll pm you about the protective shield around the fuel pump, I need to make one of these and need some dimensions please. :kiss: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 We fitted the engine back on the trailer today. It went surprisingly easily - we remembered to fit the fan belt before fastening the engine bolts (only three). The compressor drive belts were fed over the compressor flywheel and everything tightened. To my relief the starting handle brackets guided the handle straight to the boss on the crank pulley and all turned over. However it the engine is very tight and should prove a bit of an effort when we come to try and start it. I dismantled the carburettor from the manifold and having cleaned it up and painted it with high temperature black fitted it to the engine along with the oil pipes going to the radiator oil cooler and an air pipe from the compressor to the governor. I think that will probably be it until the New Year as I am working every day up to Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted December 26, 2015 Author Share Posted December 26, 2015 A slight Christmas setback. I took the V belt off to adjust the governor as it was not quite aligned correctly. A quick five minute job but when I was trying to refit the V belt I managed to break the side of the pulley. I now have to wait until the New Year to get someone to hopefully braze the pieces back together. It appears to be cast iron so brazing appears to be the way to go (unless someone knows differently) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 A slight Christmas setback. I took the V belt off to adjust the governor as it was not quite aligned correctly. A quick five minute job but when I was trying to refit the V belt I managed to break the side of the pulley.I now have to wait until the New Year to get someone to hopefully braze the pieces back together. It appears to be cast iron so brazing appears to be the way to go (unless someone knows differently) Note please readers: Having assisted with the original fitting of several parts including the engine back into the chassis....I was not involved in this little incident! Anthony: that is unfortunate. I doubt that this will braze back together very well. I would say try one of the very good modern 2-part metal glues as you have clean breaks, but know that pulley is under quite a lot of tension so don't know how well it would hold together in use. I reckon you best option is to get a replacement pulley (modern aluminium will look very similar once painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Silver solder it, very effective and strong!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf30 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Florence, Talk to that nice mr Paul Gurr. He might have one ! Cheers, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Nice work as usual Tony! Before long, trailers are about all we will be allowed to own legally!.......:mad: However, the Warlike Stores. Being Ex Military Vehicles might be banned!.......:red: I feel more Ill at ease, with unregulated 'Imigrants' coming to the UK. Than from HARMLESS, LEGALLY DEACTIVATED FORMER Firearms!......:embarrassed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 The saga progresses - I managed to get the broken pulley brazed and so I then set about sorting out a more suitable V belt. With hindsight I believe the old belt that I measured up was oversized with regards to width and depth and so after a few abortive attempts I have fitted what appears to be a better belt that is 17mm and an internal length of 1219mm (7/16th" and 47 3/4" imperial) Having got this sorted the riveted fan belt decided to break - it looked fairly tatty and was bound to go soon. I have found a modern equivalent on the internet and am waiting for it to arrive. The only problem is that it might be orange in colour so I will look at painting it black with an acrylic spray. The carburettor has been cleaned as has the air filter (very good condition filter) and has now been assembled on the manifold and appropriate linkages/cables attached. I am now only waiting for the riveted belt and to fit the electric wires to the stop button before asking a few nice people to come around to try and start the engine. Not at the moment however, as it is b***** cold in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex van de Wetering Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Looking good Tony! Is the orange belt rivited as well, or is it a plain belt? When it comes to colouring.....maybe some flexible paint is an option....like the ones used by the RC car guys. I am sure you know which Japanese modelling firm sells those Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Looking good Tony! Is the orange belt rivited as well, or is it a plain belt? When it comes to colouring.....maybe some flexible paint is an option....like the ones used by the RC car guys. I am sure you know which Japanese modelling firm sells those Alex The new belt (Nutlink) is adjusted to length with small moveable metal pegs so it is now fitted. I have painted it but I fear that the movement will make some of the paint flake off as the belt is made of flexible material that even the polycarbonate paint to which you refer will not cope with. Only the two electrical cables for the stop button to fit now, fill the cooling system and wait for a less damp day...fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Tony, had you not thought about Dying the belt black instead of painting it? :-) Those HT leads. Were they meant to be yellow originally? I would have thought there was only one colour available Then. Black?..........You can still obtain copper core HT lead by the foot. Instead of that Horrible Carbon core stuff! Just my thoughts on this magnificent restoration job. You are undertaking! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Tony, had you not thought about Dying the belt black instead of painting it? :-) Those HT leads. Were they meant to be yellow originally? I would have thought there was only one colour available Then. Black?..........You can still obtain copper core HT lead by the foot. Instead of that Horrible Carbon core stuff! Just my thoughts on this magnificent restoration job. You are undertaking! :thumbsup: I don't think that dye would take to the type of plasticised material the belt is made of. As for the HT leads, they were the original yellow ones that came with the trailer, suitably cleaned. The leads on the spare distributor were also yellow so I will keep them that way for the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 The new belt (Nutlink) is adjusted to length with small moveable metal pegs so it is now fitted. I have painted it but I fear that the movement will make some of the paint flake off as the belt is made of flexible material that even the polycarbonate paint to which you refer will not cope with. Only the two electrical cables for the stop button to fit now, fill the cooling system and wait for a less damp day...fingers crossed! Hi Tony, I doubt paint will stay on that belt, I much prefer the original black Brammer belt. Looks like it is still available, see here, http://www.fdoconnor.com.au/en_brammer-belting,223.html unfortunately, the supplier is not in UK. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hi Tony,I doubt paint will stay on that belt, I much prefer the original black Brammer belt. Looks like it is still available, see here, http://www.fdoconnor.com.au/en_brammer-belting,223.html unfortunately, the supplier is not in UK. regards, Richard Yes Richard, it looks better but with the associated costs from Australia I think that it would be the straw that broke my back (if Mrs. L does not do that for me!!). I think having a tin of black paint with me to touch up occasionally will be cheaper. The Nutlink belt set me back nearly £50!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Yes Richard, it looks better but with the associated costs from Australia I think that it would be the straw that broke my back (if Mrs. L does not do that for me!!). I think having a tin of black paint with me to touch up occasionally will be cheaper. The Nutlink belt set me back nearly £50!! How much? :wow: Still, I suppose that is just the price of half a horse re-shoe...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 How much? :wow: Still, I suppose that is just the price of half a horse re-shoe...... I've just found this site http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/B-Section-Brammer-Type-Link-Belting.html and bitten the bullet. Once you know the terminology it's easy. Putting riveted belt into Google does not bring this up but type Brammal belt in and bingo! Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David B. Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs. .....and saved you from fitting it upside down ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs. .....and saved you from fitting it upside down ! ????????????? it is fitted with the wide section uppermost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David B. Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 .....and saved you from fitting it upside down ! ????????????? it is fitted with the wide section uppermost Tony,I was joking,with it possibly having to come from the Antipodes. .......and some fell on stony ground ! David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 ????????????? it is fitted with the wide section uppermost Tony,I was joking,with it possibly having to come from the Antipodes. .......and some fell on stony ground ! David. Another Friday afternoon senior moment on my behalf!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 I've just found this site http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/B-Section-Brammer-Type-Link-Belting.html and bitten the bullet. Once you know the terminology it's easy. Putting riveted belt into Google does not bring this up but type Brammal belt in and bingo! Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs. Tony, You will thank me as I have saved you from all those rivet counters who would have spotted the orange colour showing through as the paint flakes off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Tony,You will thank me as I have saved you from all those rivet counters who would have spotted the orange colour showing through as the paint flakes off! Ha ha! I'm waiting for someone to point out all the screw slots are not in line! :laugh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Ha ha! I'm waiting for someone to point out all the screw slots are not in line! :laugh: And WHY aren't they then?................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 And WHY aren't they then?................................ The infallible Mr. Corden has boobed - there are no screws, only nuts and bolts. I think that I am the only one with a screw loose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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