andypugh Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 we are going to be off the road for a couple of months. What a nuisance. You could fix the collar then put everything back together and run like that for a while, the evidence seems to be that the impeller is still impelling, if you didn't overheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Braze repair the original impeller and stick it back in - suitably braced / spaced, while you get the new casting done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Anodising would certainly stop the corrosion. It was how torpedo hulls were treated when I made them for a living! I must admit that I don't understand the process though. How would it take to a cast surface and how would I do it? Interesting suggestion! Steve This site is called "DIY Home aluminum Anodizing for a Hobby":- http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml Another useful document:- http://home.kpn.nl/ronvans/forums/anodizing_instructions.pdf Plus 100s of other results on Google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Steve pulled the pump to bits and found that it was full of swarf. The grub screws in the collar were both loose and it had moved about 1/2”. Now we are thinking of the best way to secure the collar as both grub screws were loose. Any suggestions would be welcome. Interestingly, the shaft that we copied has a groove machined in it at this position which we didn’t notice before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Ouch. Might be easiest to countersink the witness marks from the original grub screw positions, then Loctite the screws in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 A taper-pin would have been authentic for the period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landbt Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) Well Hi Guys, I have been reading through this thread and also the thornycroft one with a few other engineers and fitter/turners I work with and we are all amazed with your restorations and your dedication to having things right and remanufacturing of parts, just awesome guys!!!! i stumbled across this thread whilst trying to find out more about a truck chassis that is under an old sheppards galley that I have recently acquired I believe the chassis to be that of a Dennis and wondered if you guys would like to see it. Chassis number 11846, would any one be able to tell me a date or any other information? At this stage my intention would be to restore the hut (galley of whare as we call then here in NZ) for use behind a traction engine or at various vintage rallies etc, I am however open to suggestions. As far as the water pump issue goes, sticking with the grub screw set up you could dimple the shaft and also loctite them in (modern solution) or otherwise as suggested fit a tapered pin, the thin end can also be piened into a countersink to stop it coming loose. Andrew Edited April 26, 2016 by Landbt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Well Hi Guys, i stumbled across this thread whilst trying to find out more about a truck chassis that is under an old sheppards galley that I have recently acquired I believe the chassis to be that of a Dennis and wondered if you guys would like to see it. Chassis number 11846, would any one be able to tell me a date or any other information? Andrew Please post some pictures of the chassis for us to see, Andrew! I am sure that Ben H on this forum will be able to help! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landbt Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) Here are some pics of the galley Edited April 26, 2016 by Landbt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 A nice find. Dennis for sure! Ours is 12005 which we reckon is July 1918. I would therefore suggest that yours dates from the first quarter of 1918. Thanks for sharing! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 As far as the water pump issue goes, sticking with the grub screw set up you could dimple the shaft and also loctite them in (modern solution) or otherwise as suggested fit a tapered pin, the thin end can also be piened into a countersink to stop it coming loose. Andrew A taper pin would be my first choice. However there is an oil way up the centre of the shaft which feeds the shaft bearing so a pin would block it. In fact this oil feed is probably the cause of our problems as at up to 40psi pressing on the end of the shaft, it generates an end load of up to 20lbs! I hadn't thought of that when I originally assembled it. Dimples for the grub screws look promising but I will think further before committing. Thanks for the suggestion! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 However there is an oil way up the centre of the shaft which feeds the shaft bearing so a pin would block it. In fact this oil feed is probably the cause of our problems as at up to 40psi pressing on the end of the shaft, it generates an end load of up to 20lbs! There you are then, a taper-pin solves both problems :-) Is there no possibility of finding a taper pin small enough to not completely block the hole but big enough to do the job? A cross-drilled or waisted taper pin is probably being silly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 A taper pin would be my first choice. However there is an oil way up the centre of the shaft which feeds the shaft bearing so a pin would block it. In fact this oil feed is probably the cause of our problems as at up to 40psi pressing on the end of the shaft, it generates an end load of up to 20lbs! I hadn't thought of that when I originally assembled it. Dimples for the grub screws look promising but I will think further before committing. Thanks for the suggestion! Steve Is there sufficient metal to offset the taper pin so that it misses the oil way? If yes, could you use 2 or more pins along the length of the shaft as a belt and braces fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landbt Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 The one thing I do notice it that my wheels have nice rounded spokes and most others I see have like a + type section. Is there anything behind the difference? Thanks Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 The wheels you have depend upon who made them. They were bought in as required from different manufacturers. One of ours is stamped 'S & C' and the other 'RS & J' which we take to be 'Shrewsbury and Challoner' and 'Ransomes Sims and Jefferies'. We also have a set of round spoke wheels in stock although ours have eight spokes and you have ten on the rear. That is another whole area of research! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Turning a groove in the shaft for a circlip would be my approach. The impeller has moved along the shaft and judging by the damage done does not need reinforcing of the rotational movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Turning a groove in the shaft for a circlip would be my approach. This would be a good engineering solution. But the circlip wasn't invented until 1927. I tend to see these vehicles as archives of engineering practice for their time, so my preference is always to use date-appropriate solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Well Hi Guys,i stumbled across this thread whilst trying to find out more about a truck chassis that is under an old sheppards galley that I have recently acquired I believe the chassis to be that of a Dennis and wondered if you guys would like to see it. Chassis number 11846, would any one be able to tell me a date or any other information? Thanks for sharing the photos, it looks like it is in good mechanical shape whatever you decide to do with the chassis. Despite the Dennis records being fairly complete the subsidy lorry index is missing so it is difficult to be very accurate in dates. The nearest data point I have for that chassis number is 11783 was sold via Atkeys (an agent for Dennis based in Nottingham) on 25/10/1918. However I don't know if this chassis was new at that stage. So I think we can at least be fairly confident that your chassis is 1918 or earlier. Great to see another survivor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landbt Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Thanks for the info!! the chassis is in good nick, but all brackets and the engine sub frame have all been removed. The diff looks OK in the wheel department but the whole diff head and axles are missing. The front axle is largely intact, interesting you will note on the front wheels there is a ring of wood that has been inserted to take the difference between the wheel and tyre. Given the time of manufacture it would be interesting to know its story and how it came to end up half way round the world from where it was made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Unfortunately, we had a bit of a mishap with the Water Pump on the Dennis, last month and the sad story of this was related on Page 180 of this thread dated the 12th April. The only thing that we could do following this was to have a new “Impeller” cast so that we could machine up a replacement for the lorry. With the Pattern still available from last time, it meant a quick visit to the Foundry. The two pictures show the new casting against the remains of the broken Impeller. A full description of the machining of the original Impeller that we made can be found on page 60 of this thread dated the 18th January 2010 and exactly the same sequence was followed again this time. It will now head for Leicester to have the keyway cut and then be fitted to the Lorry. We shall be mobile again very shortly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 At last we are operational again! Father brought up the pump impeller and I have reassembled it. First job was to ease the impeller on the shaft slightly. This was done with an expanding reamer. Then the keyway was cut using my trusty slotting attachment for the Myford. Once this had been fitted, I reassembled the pump. To resolve the collar slipping problem, I have simply dimpled the shaft underneath the grub screws. Hopefully, this will sort it but we will have to keep an eye on it. New gaskets were cut and the whole ensemble was refitted to the engine. All that remains is a test run! Now, back to the Thornycroft, at long last! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 There is still a list of minor jobs which we have never completed on the Dennis and one of those is to make the body footsteps which fit just above the rear wheels. These can be seen in the body drawing and are bent pieces of steel 1 1/2" x 3/8" in section. I am guessing that they were a blacksmithing job so I had to have a go at making them the same way. Now, I am no blacksmith but I am fortunate in that my railway club has a hearth and anvil which I can use. I fired it up and had a go! I ended up with two pieces of roughly the right shape. However, the engles needed adjusting and the hammer marks and dents were terrible! To sort the bend out, I put them in my press and nudged them. Unfortunately, I managed to crack one but sorted this out with a gob of weld. I choose that word carefully as it describes the quality of my welding rather well! An hour's worth of filing, angle grinding and polishing and I have two steps of adequate quality. A coat of primer before sending them to paintshop in Devon ready for the next time the green tin is open. These are not very special components but are adequate and have proven to be good blacksmithing practice. Unfortunately for me, driving a desk is not good training for this sort of work! Steve :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Going through the photos there seem to have been at least three slightly different designs of footstep. This is what Steves would have looked like or something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Now here is an interesting development: Oh my. Look at the time. I have an early start tomorrow. Good night chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I'm sure I saw some scrap men with cutting gear going in there yesterday ....:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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