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Bedford MWR restoration


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part twelve well its been a busily year with the truck having attended over twelve events this year and covering nearly 1700 miles the longest trip would have been to Guernsey and the shortest five miles up the road to local steam rally .Touch wood there has only been the one brake down with the ignition coil packing up just as we set off on the trip to Guernsey am i glad i bought the spare for the previous years trip to Normandy . The truck is now back in its winter quarters with the new canvas safely away for the winter the rough sea crossing to Guernsey as deck freight had turned the brass gauze in some of the windows bright green .

I have long list of jobs i want to try and sort this winter the main ones are

1) The cab doors are both to be remade as the sealing lip around the outside of the doors is missing .

2) The cab sills /door frame is to be remade the ones currently fitted are not in one piece or strong enough

3) Find and refit the MWR pto linkage ,prop shaft and dynamo

i need to find the following parts

thanks to Simon Thompson for supplying the photos

would these parts have been used on any other truck

 

MWR dynamo

 

 

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prop shaft

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MWR gear box pto and linkage

 

 

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more soon

Nicky

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Maurice / Guy 66

i think the dynamo will be 12 v it supply's power through a control box into the no 5 switch panel

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which can also be supplied by the chore horse generator which is housed in the box which replaces the drivers cab step the power is then either used to charge the battery's for the wireless set or supply the set directly i have very little information on the dynamo the Bedford parts book has a part number of 7064807 and a description of Lucas type MO14X dynamo ,the only part of the set up i have is the bracket to mount the dynamo to the chassis if the machined section to hold the body of the dynamo is a true radius the diameter for the dynamo will be 6" ,Guy is the set up on the Morris the same ?

 

 

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Thanks for the photos of the truck the last two show just how full the boat was on the return trip

Nicky

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part thirteen

Had a good day in the workshop on the cab sills /door frame

 

photos one-three show the poorly fitting doors and the cab sill /door frame which is made up of several parts ( it should a one piece welded frame ) the pen under the door shows just how big the gap is

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photo four shows the correct door fitted to the truck note how the lip of the door covers the door frame i need someone to make a couple of door skins from this pattern (any recommendations please )

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photo five and six show the work on the cab sills

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photo seven - nine show the wood corner piece which sits between the cab and the rear of the front wing i don't think that at 1" wide this piece is thick enough ,i think it should fill all the space in photo nine am i correct

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Nicky

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Hello Nicky.

 

You are right there are match resemblances on the rear radio equipment for a Morris C4 wireless combination.

The power supply can go trough different power supply's , battery's , extra generator driven by the PTO of the gearbox are by a extra petrol driven generator .

Did some investigation on the extra pto driven generator and it seems that it was a CAV type D5LA-22 and the regulator is CAV type 141/2.

 

Think this type of dynamo mounted on to the chassis with the bracket you have in your pictures will be difficult to trace but I had a good look on my Bedford QL (ex R) and the screened dynamo is almost the same as the back one on are ws models.

The only difference on the QLR dynamo are the fitting lugs to month it on to the engine and also to swivel the dynamo to tighten the V belt.

The dynamo type on a QLR is ;CAV type DW 7X-8X and this type is perhaps easer to find and take of the mounting lugs and the driving will need some transformation to a flange for the generator drive shaft.

 

If you come by these bits I am also looking for the extra dynamo, and the switch panel that go's in the back.

On the picture you can see a QLR dynamo.

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GUY

Edited by guy66
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  • 2 weeks later...

part fourteen

 

 

The work on the cab doors continues with the stripping of the two original doors and removal of door skin on the correct door ,taking the door skins off the two original doors revealed the extent of the work that was going to be needed to make them correct

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both door frames show signs of wet rot ,dry rot and wood worm (hopefully dead through old age )one of the frames has been totally dismantled to make a set of patterns and sent to my wood supplier to have new parts made in Ash .

 

 

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the photo above shows the correct timber frame on the pattern door and the steel strip at the bottom of the door used to crimp the door skin on at the bottom

 

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steel door skin as removed from pattern door this has now been sent to have an auto cad drawing made and some new door skins made

Nicky

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Hi ..Looks like you are doing a real good job on these.If you are having a pair of skins made ie L and R what would be the chances of a second pair at the same time and at what cost ..as I think I would to re skin mine also? :-)

 

 

 

 

 

part fourteen

 

 

The work on the cab doors continues with the stripping of the two original doors and removal of door skin on the correct door ,taking the door skins off the two original doors revealed the extent of the work that was going to be needed to make them correct

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both door frames show signs of wet rot ,dry rot and wood worm (hopefully dead through old age )one of the frames has been totally dismantled to make a set of patterns and sent to my wood supplier to have new parts made in Ash .

 

 

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the photo above shows the correct timber frame on the pattern door and the steel strip at the bottom of the door used to crimp the door skin on at the bottom

 

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steel door skin as removed from pattern door this has now been sent to have an auto cad drawing made and some new door skins made

Nicky

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Beautiful job on your restoration. I am currently working on a Chevy CMP FFW truck and the layout and bins/brackets seem very close to your truck. I'm wondering if it would be possible for you to post some more pictures of a couple pieces. I'm looking for more information on the Chorehorse generator cover/mounting bracket located on the drivers side cab step. Also any information on the mounting bracket for the charging board.

 

Any assistance would be most grateful.

 

Thanks

Jordan.

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Hi Jordan

yes i saw your post regarding the chore horse box on maple leaf up i was going to replay on there but i find it easier to post photos on here .

chore horse box on the Bedford mwr it replaces the complete drivers side step i have to climb on the box to get in the cab the box is mounted to the chassis brackets which would have carried the steps ,the lid for the box fits in grove formed in the bottom part of the box and hinges down until closed using an hasp and stapple to keep the lid of the box closed ,if the lid is raised through ninety degrees it can be lifted off ,looking at your photos the lid on your box looks to be different , your charging set looks different to photos i have of chore horse generators

 

photos show the unrestored box when purchased

 

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bracket for charging board

The one i have i think is correct (i am going to collect a charging panel at the weekend so will let you know if it will not fit )there seams to be two versions in the mwr one which has no weather cover or as the one i have which is fitted with the steel weather cover

 

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is the body on your truck a GS type or a gin palace stile of body

Nick

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part fifteen

 

yes it is going to fit ! after a trip into Lincolnshire today to collect my latest missing part for the truck i now have the complete switch board charging no 5 (after a two year search) it is also the correct British manufactured one as there is also a Canadian version of this panel which is mounted slightly differently

 

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as can see from the photos this panel is used to connect the charging system on the truck using the gearbox pto and under floor dynamo to the wireless battery's, the wireless battery's to the wireless set or the chore horse generating set to the wireless battery's ,there is also a connection marked internal light but this is not used on the MWR as the rear interior light over the wireless table is wired through a control switch mounted under the wireless table and fed off the vehicle battery this panel is another of this years projects

 

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this is the only photo of the panel i have, i know that it is fitted with the same rheostat switch as the ones on the truck dash board and uses the same two pin plug as the one on the cab dash (any better photos would be very welcome ) its is just visible under the table between the two seat backs .

 

another recent find are two wooden battery box cases these sit in the angle iron frame at either side of the wireless

 

 

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table and are clamped in place by a top angle iron frame and two long wing bolts

 

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i need to do some modification work to the box i made last year for the ammeter for the rear charging circuit as this box is too large (any original photos of this would be welcome and also a part number for the correct ammeter ) it is stopping the charging panel from fitting into its correct mounting.

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hopefully i will spend tomorrow in the workshop working on the fame for the new cab doors .

 

Nicky

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Nick

 

Thanks so much for the pictures. Do you know if the generator was meant to be run from this box or removed and setup away from the truck?

 

The Wire-3 is the GS box fitted with all the wireless stuff. It's basically the Cnd version of your truck.

 

Are there any manuals covering your truck that deal with the wireless fittings?

 

Jordan

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Do you know if the generator was meant to be run from this box or removed and setup away from the truck?

 

Jordan

 

I would imagine the generator would be placed on the ground, away from the truck, the flexible exhaust hose

would be run out further away still to prevent fumes getting back inside and the hose itself was usually buried to cut the noise down, reduce the trip hazard. The generator then connected to external terminals on the truck that would feed the "power unit" terminals on the charging switchboard.

 

I can't imagine the charging set being run on the vehicle, especially in a box, due to lack of airflow and also vibration.

 

Chris.

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  • 3 weeks later...

part sixteen

The work on the cab doors and sill panels is coming along nicely the new ash quarter panels between the cab floor ,bulkhead and wing have been made and fitted ,

 

 

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The cab sill /door frame have been welded up and trial fitted .

 

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The door guide brackets i bought off e-bay earlier this year have been repaired i had to make new mounting plates for the door guide rubbers and weld them on to the plates as the original tapped holes were past saving .

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The new door frames are nearly finished ,i want to hang the new frames on the door hinges and rear door guide brackets before fitting the door skins and make sure the bottom of the drivers door clears the lid of the chore horse box

 

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Trial fitting the original correct door shows that everything is going ok

 

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Jordan the only manuals i have are the drivers hand book and workshop manuals both of these give very little information on the wireless fittings

Nicky

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  • 2 months later...

PART SEVENTEEN

Progress with the door skins at last ,after spending two months to find out that the company with the high tech folding machine are a complete waste of time i had find another supplier to make the door skins ,having looked a little closer to home a pal of mine is restoring a diamond T and when i showed him the door skin the answer was come back in couple of weeks they will be ready .

photo one is the door skins as collected

 

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and what an excellent job they have made ,it took several attempts to get the sealing lip at the front and rear of the door correct ,the lip at the front is shorter than the one at the rear but the finished door skin fits the door frames correctly .

photo two shows the cut out for the door hinges

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photo three shows the test fitting of the drivers door

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photo four test fitting the passenger side

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photo five shows the work on the rear of the door to clear the rubber supports at the rear of the door and pins used to nail on the door skin ,the skin was also bonded to timber frame with a modern panel fixer this should stop the skin drumming on the wooden frame

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photo six the drivers door in red oxide primer with door handle fitted

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photo seven the inside of the passenger door showing the striker plate for the door lock (was there a factory fitted striker plate or did the latch just catch on the inside of the wooden frame)

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