BenHawkins Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 I then used a router to copy the profile more accurately And did the same for the roof support. The two parts side by side. The final job for this week was to thin the lugs down on the control levers (fitted to the steering column) and drill them for to fit the clevises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 I went to see the machine shop and the flywheel is finally finished. I still need to make the phosphor bronze centre bush. I gave it a quick coat of paint and checked the sizing for a 1/4" thick Ferrodo lining by using three 1/4" drill bits. The clutch sits just proud which I believe is correct. I now need to book it in for lining and will probably have both parts balanced before fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 The front of the cab roof is supported on two steel props that bolt to the bulkhead. I have welded the bracket to the bottom end of these so I could check the alignment with the ash frame. So I could then cut the side boards to length and mark the arc of the roof. Then used a jigsaw to cut the arc and sand paper to tidy it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 I used a plane to chamfer the top of the board to follow the roof curvature. I planed a similar chamfer on the front arch. After scribing the thickness of the tongue and groove roof boards on the front panel and lining up the front arch I realised the corners would protrude slightly so these were then planed back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Between all the other jobs I have been painting the boards for the back of the cab; the first two were ready to fit but the cab frame had to be jacked up to be able to screw them in place. Unfortunately we did not have enough hands to get a photo of it up in the air as the glamorous assistant was acting as ballast to steady the cab. The boards are secured by screws through a strip of steel and into the uprights of the frame. And a trial fitting of all the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 The friction lining company managed a 72 hour turnaround on the clutch. They would not rivet it, and have just bonded the lining on so I guess I will add rivets at some point. They also ignored my drawing and put an angled joint more common on modern equipment. They bonded lining material onto the clutch stops as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 3 minutes ago, BenHawkins said: The friction lining company managed a 72 hour turnaround on the clutch. They would not rivet it, and have just bonded the lining on so I guess I will add rivets at some point. They also ignored my drawing and put an angled joint more common on modern equipment. They bonded lining material onto the clutch stops as well. That is annoying when they do not do what is asked of them. At least if you rivet as well, it will be 'belt and braces' job, I am all for that way of thinking ! Really impressed with your work, you have really got on well. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 I tried fitting the flywheel but it will not go all the way back onto the flange. I marked these holes on the drawing as 7/16" for the 7/16BSW bolts so will ream them out by a few thou to resolve the issue. Trying the clutch in place. Then trying the front propshaft in place. This came off the engine from the Gosling pumping set so unsurprisingly is not the correct length to reach. I need to remove the joints from the splined shaft and make a new (longer) shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Just now, Richard Farrant said: That is annoying when they do not do what is asked of them. At least if you rivet as well, it will be 'belt and braces' job, I am all for that way of thinking ! Really impressed with your work, you have really got on well. Richard Thanks Richard, I agreed with them to bond it as I can add the rivets myself but having provided a drawing for the lining I was surprised they made it differently. However, if I didn't post it here no body would ever know once it is fitted. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 I have drilled the bulkhead for the cab supports and filed them into the tear drop shape used by Dennis with modified coach bolts. Then modified some 3/8" BSW coach bolts to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 There has not been the usual level of productivity this week as we went down to London for the Brighton run auction and Regents Street motor show. John Dennis drove us through London in the 1902 car which was an unexpected treat; it was running well on all of its (one) cylinders. I often make lorry parts in my lunch break at work, but on Monday the lathe and milling machine were busy so I drilled some holes in a block of steel to attach the bulb horn to the prop at the front of the cab. After drilling the 3/4 inch holes and the 5.1mm holes for tapping 1/4BSW the next step was to split it with a saw. I then milled some of the excess material away. It is still a bit heavy duty for a horn bracket (the kitchen scales say it weighs 338g). I will thin it down a little more next time I have nothing else to do. I have also increased the diameter of the mounting holes in the flywheel by 0.005" but have not yet tried fitting it to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 The other tasks for this week have been further boring of the propshaft tube. And roughing out the phosphor bronze centre bearing for the flywheel. And of course more sanding and painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 I finished boring the prop shaft tube and checked the universal joint jaw piece fitted. I then drilled three holes equally spaced on a 100mm PCD in the mounting block I had made so that it could be transferred from the tool post to the catch plate. Then mounted the catch plate on the lathe spindle (and clamped the prop shaft tube into the block) and used a dial indicator to make sure I had it coaxial with the lathe spindle before tightening the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 The rear end of the prop shaft tube was supported on a large revolving centre so I was able to machine the taper on that end by setting the compound slide at the 6.5 degree angle (the actual angle is not too critical). The drawing calls for most of the diameter to be reduced to 2-3/16". This picture shows how close it was to the capacity of the lathe (the reason the three or four jaw chuck could not be used at the headstock end as the tube would not fit through the bore). Another check of the fit. Both ends need to be pinned and brazed into the tube before reaming the holes for the drive pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 I felt strong enough to have another go at lifting the 40kg flywheel on and with the holes opened up slightly it fits well. This allowed us to centre the engine and clamp the clutch release parts in place. I must thank the Goslings for these parts but as they were off the fire pump. The fire pump did not use a foot pedal but instead a long lever on the end of the transverse shaft, therefore this shaft cannot fit between the mounting rails and cannot be mounted high enough to reach the centre line of the clutch. This clutch stop is from a 1920s Dennis lorry and although very similar to the original it does not end up in quite the right place as it is too low and will clash with the clutch springs (that fit around the hole shown in the photo). It is just the bracket part that appears to be different from the original parts so I should be able to use most of it. It was fairly easy to cut the end off the transverse shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 I used the lathe to face the end of the shaft, using a three point steady to support it. The length still needs reducing a little more to get a good fit between the mounting rails. As I am now fairly confident about the position of the engine I turned up a small bush to centre a 1/8" pilot drill in the engine mounts and drilled through at two opposite corners. Then opened the holes up to 3/8" and fitted some temporary bolts. Certainly an improvement on quick clamps and should make it impossible for me to drop the engine on the floor. And I have done bit more painting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, BenHawkins said: And I have done bit more painting. Admit it, you are only in this for the painting aren't you? :-) Edited November 12, 2017 by andypugh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN THE STEAM Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Looking awesome, really coming along now. What die is tge flywheel, I am needing one for my engine as all is missing, the largest I can go it 18" od, as tge steering box is opposite tge flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 On 15/11/2017 at 7:30 PM, DAN THE STEAM said: Looking awesome, really coming along now. What die is tge flywheel, I am needing one for my engine as all is missing, the largest I can go it 18" od, as tge steering box is opposite tge flywheel. Hi Dan, The Dennis two ton flywheel is 16" od, so it would probably work for your purpose. I don't know how similar the Halley flywheel/clutch is to the Dennis but I am sure we can arrange another casting if required. The flywheel & clutch has worked out to be one of the most expensive parts of this build; including lining and all materials it has probably worked out around 800 pounds. It looks like you may be able to machine the flywheel yourself so that might save you 200 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 On 12/11/2017 at 7:17 PM, andypugh said: Admit it, you are only in this for the painting aren't you? :-) At times it is bearable. I have started priming some boards for the roof. But it is more satisfying when another board is finished and can be fitted. It was also nice this week to renew the insurance; double the value of this one and add road use. It added nearly 12 pounds to the premium! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 I wanted to tackle the front prop shaft as I probably need to out source the manufacture of a longer one. The clutch release bearing arrangement cannot be removed with the knuckle joints fitted to the prop shaft. There is a grub screw that secures the threaded collar retaining the bearing. When this removed and the housing was unscrewed the bearing was in good condition. I tried to press the knuckles off the shaft but it was a bit more than my 10 ton press could manage (even with the addition of oil and heat) The ten splines are 1.5" minor diameter, 1/4" wide with parallel sides. It appears the press fit is on the minor diameter as the old grease wicks out of the gaps at the crests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 I bought the cheap remains of a Lucas horn at an autojumble several years ago. This week I fitted a new reed, added a piece of brass tube, soldered up a crack, gave it a coat of paint and fitted a new bulb. The glamorous assistant has fitted the bracket I made to the cab prop. And then fitted the horn to the bracket. One step closer to being road legal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 The missing lever from the clutch cross shaft is similar to those that are already fitted. There is a 1" diameter hole at one end with a pinch bolt to secure it to the shaft whilst setting up; two taper pins are then also fitted to guarantee it will not move. At the other end is a 1/2" eye for a clevis & pin. I have started to rough this out by drilling 1" and 1/2" holes in a piece of square bar and then removing some of the excess material at that end. Whilst I was around the workshop this weekend on other tasks the shaper removed much of the excess from the rest of the length. Still plenty to do but starting to take shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 I hoped to mill the circular end on the gear selector drop arm this weekend but as I started to set it up on my 8" rotary table I realised it would not fit. I will have to borrow a larger one. Now the engine position is fixed I have slightly shortened the starting handle shaft and secured the handle with a taper pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 I took the gear selector drop arm to work so I could borrow a larger rotary table. The first stage was to clock the rotary table so it was coaxial with the milling spindle. This was followed by clamping the drop arm to the rotary table and adjusting its position until the centre dot mark was also coaxial with the milling spindle. Obviously there would be quite a lot of torque applied to that clamp bolt so I pushed a couple of step blocks up against the arm and clamped those in place as well. Making the final stage of milling the radius on the end quite easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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