gritineye Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) Nice progress Ben, I really enjoy your threads as I do like to see how parts are machined with cunning setups :thumbsup: Oh and I too have a shaper :-D Bernard Edited March 20, 2017 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 Nice progress Ben, I really enjoy your threads as I do like to see how parts are machined with cunning setups :thumbsup: Oh and I too have a shaper :-D Thanks Bernard, I certainly enjoy the challenge of making the parts with what I have available. I could survive without the shaper but it is a cheap way to make swarf (no expensive cutters) and can often get on with the job whilst I am working on something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 I centred the clutch on a rotary table to centre drill the holes for the clutch hub etc. When I built up the old clutch into a pattern I had to reverse the taper so it would pull from the sand. With the head tilted to 12 degrees on the milling machine I decided I could return it to the original design. After a few hours. And finally back to a consistent wall thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) We have been thinking about the cab build. My original sketches based on the catalogue and factory photos looked OK but I was not certain enough to commit to buying and cutting timber. Spending a few pounds on a couple of sheets of MDF seemed like a sensible idea and I cut them out with a jigsaw to see how it compared to the factory photo. Bringing it outside to get a better look at the proportions. Not too much space wasted between the door frame and the cab! It looks about right. And I have begun to modify the frame to allow for a more sensible clearance. Edited March 27, 2017 by BenHawkins Phots not displaying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11th Armoured Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Not too much space wasted between the door frame and the cab! And I have begun to modify the frame to allow for a more sensible clearance. Shame you can't just let a bit of air out of the tyres... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Shame you can't just let a bit of air out of the tyres... At least they can know that it will only ever get lower, as the tyres wear or fuel / water / load compresses the springs. (I wonder if ratchet straps round the chassis and axle would compress the springs. I do that with my GasGas to get it into vans, but that has rather softer suspension) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Great workmanship, Ben! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Not too much space wasted between the door frame and the cab! If you are happy with your "prototype" cab and assuming that the door frame is non loadbearing, can't you cut a curve out of it to match the cab's roof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I guess as you build the vehicle up, it will sit down on its springs a bit more as weight is added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Thanks for all the comments on the cab and door frame. I am sure we can get something to work. I was not happy with the front of the canopy so have made another one. It is better but I think there will be a third one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Back to the clutch. Using a centre indicator to locate the centre marks for the hub retaining bolts marked up previously. Drilling the holes Boring them out to 3/4" diameter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 The procedure was repeated for the three outside holes for the springs The drive bushes were machined from 3/4" EN8 bar And a trial fitting. I still need to make the four special bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I think the third attempt at the cab front is right. I have made four bolts for the clutch hub. And two shoulder screws for the clutch linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I want to fit the gearbox fairly soon but the selector fork was not fitted to the new selector rod. We put the shafts and gears back in the gearbox so we could make sure we were putting the holes in the right place. The selector fork was already drilled and tapped 3/16BSW so I used that hole to clamp the fork in place whilst marking the hole positions. Then took the selector rod out again, used the centre finder to pick up my previous marks and drilled the pilot holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 There is a hole in the bottom of the gearbox to allow the taper pins to be extracted, it also gives somewhere for the end of the taper pin reamer to go. Unfortunately one of the taper pins has never properly lined up with this hole so although it was started in-situ it had to be finished on the bench. Once this hole was reamed out to remove all of the previous hole I found I did not have a taper pin to fit. I have ordered some more and this will give me a chance to clean the swarf out the gearbox and start making gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 I have picked up the flywheel casting. It is quite heavy (ca. 70kg) so can stay in the boot of the car until I drop it off at a machine shop (sadly, it is too big for my lathe). After bolting the stuffing box to the front of the gearbox I was able to push down the detent plungers with a screwdriver and push in the selector rods; starting with reverse and fitting the taper pins to secure the selector forks. Reverse uses a lever that pivots on a shoulder screw through the bottom of the casing. I then proceeded to fit the other two selector rods & forks. But as one of the bearings is noisy I have not fitted the shafts and gears yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 The photos are not too exciting this week as I spent much of it in Warsaw. After some more cleaning one of the bearings on the countershaft was still noisy so we pulled it off and pressed a new one on. The output shaft bearings were also noisy but I don't have one of the replacements yet. But at least I could cut out the new gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 The input shaft was not completely quiet so I decided to strip that down as well. And then clean up and reassemble with new bearings. And refitting the outer steel sleeve. A new bearing was also fitted where the output shaft is supported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Plenty of oil was applied to the gears, shafts and bearings to prevent them from going rusty whilst I sort the rest of the transmission out. After fitting the sliding gears and output shaft. Refitting the top and countershaft covers with new gaskets and sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 I have had new felt seals punched out for the input and output shafts. The input shaft seal is retained by a washer with six 3/16BSW screws soldered in and nuts fitted on the outside. Just the output shaft cover and transmission brake to fit. I had to stop there and tile the kitchen; the glamorous assistant can have strange ideas about prioritisation. This gearbox has needed repairing for many decades, I have only been putting the tiling off for a couple of years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 I had a couple of lunchtimes to fill whilst waiting for bearings to arrive. One was used to drop the flywheel casting off at a machine shop with a lathe big enough for the job. The second was used to machine a cavity in the centre of the universal joint hub to allow the grease to pass from the screw down greaser to the oil grooves in the pins. This was done with a T slot type cutter and a rotary table. I just need to drill and tap for the lubricator now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 I fitted the transmission brake but then found there was not enough space left for the selector rod cover. Luckily when I checked I had left the drum about 1/4" deeper than the brake shoes as I was not sure what the exact position was meant to be. So the brake drum came off, was mounted on the lathe and 3/16" was take off the back face. This then left around 1/8" clearance, and the drum approximately centred on the brake show pivots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 I have collected another batch of laser cutting. This has included profiles for the brake arms so these were checked for alignment. There was also one for the front cover on the gearbox. I am considering mounting a similar support frame at this point. The gearbox was lined up under the chassis and the shaft that connects to the gear stick marked for trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 The gearbox was manoeuvred and jacked up to height on a pallet truck And then some 5/8BSF bolts were modified to fit around the fabricated reinforcements. I still need to modify four more bolts and fit Grover washers and split pins. The final job for this week was drilling and tapping the universal joint hub to accept a lubricator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 I have machined some bosses from EN3 steel and welded them to the S275 steel laser cut profiles to complete the first of the transmission brake arms. It has been blasted and primed but I still need to repeat the procedure for the second one. Opening the holes up with a reamer should sort out the minor misalignment of the various parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.