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1914 Dennis Lorry


BenHawkins

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I have purchased a new woodworking tool, a flexible router guide. I had printed some curves from DraftSight so I could use them to make a template for the planks that fit over the cab doorways.

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The finished template.IMG_4060s.thumb.jpg.553002896100853eaafa0b3a4b495566.jpg

I used the template to mark out the profile onto some mahogany, roughly cut it to shape with a jigsaw then clamped the template to the mahogany.

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Then used the router to get the exact shape.IMG_4063s.thumb.jpg.81319e73a3384bf20081b76f37b7f11c.jpg

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I bought a bent piece of pipe to make the exhaust but when looking at the run over Christmas realised it needed an additional bend. I heated it up and added the bend in approximately the right place. Unfortunately I buckled it slightly and also tore a small hole in the outer edge of the bend. I might continue to fit this and then make a drawing of it to get another one made properly!

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On 07/01/2018 at 5:16 PM, BenHawkins said:

I bought a bent piece of pipe to make the exhaust but when looking at the run over Christmas realised it needed an additional bend. I heated it up and added the bend in approximately the right place. Unfortunately I buckled it slightly and also tore a small hole in the outer edge of the bend. I might continue to fit this and then make a drawing of it to get another one made properly!

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The way to have done that Ben would've been to fill the pipe with water...freeze it...then bend it... 

The frozen ice plug would've prevented he tube from distorting and rippling etc...

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5 hours ago, Asciidv said:

Andy,

Did you mean one of these or one of those?

;-) Your monkey is getting good results. 

Ice seems like a poor choice for hot bending. 

I have an eBay hydraulic bender. It can't do exhaust pipe tube, it just collapses. 

For exhausts you need internal support. I have tried sugar, with no success (the internet claims success)

Commercial exhaust benders use internal balls to keep the tube round. Its clever and too complex to put in this margin. 

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13 hours ago, andypugh said:

;-) Your monkey is getting good results. 

Ice seems like a poor choice for hot bending. 

I have an eBay hydraulic bender. It can't do exhaust pipe tube, it just collapses. 

For exhausts you need internal support. I have tried sugar, with no success (the internet claims success)

Commercial exhaust benders use internal balls to keep the tube round. Its clever and too complex to put in this margin. 

Why bend it hot...?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to go to the west coast of America for a week so I have lost some evenings and a weekend and that has slowed progress a bit. The jet lag seems to have led to a reduced number of photos! I failed to take any photos of refitting the flywheel.

The radiator core was in the way so I decided we should put it back together again. We started by removing the original fibre gasket.

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Over the top of the Devcon metal putty I painted another sealant for coarse porosity in castings. The new gasket was cut from 3mm rubber.

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Plenty of gasket sealant was used for the sealing faces. I had applied the sealant before realising the bolts I had were the wrong length; I will need to replace them to remove the three washers fitted to each one. As a result I decided to leave the lower casting for a later date.

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I clamped my arch pieces to the ash frame and secured them with screws from inside the cab.

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I then measured for the cut out in the cab side panel and cut it with a router. The top of the arch piece was trimmed to the roof radius with a hand plane and the holes for the coach bolts were drilled through. I need to trim the ash frame back so it does not protrude below the arch but that can wait until the weather improves; I can then use the router outside and make less mess in the garage.

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On ‎21‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 6:47 PM, Citroman said:

Only one headlamp?

In the factory photo there is no bracket for a headlamp at all (only for side and tail lights). At some point the chassis was drilled for a single headlamp. I don't plan to drill any extra holes in the chassis.

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I bored a bar end of steel out to the right diameter, cut it and welded it to some steel strip to make the centre exhaust bracket. This clamps around a larger piece of pipe that gets brazed to the front section of the exhaust.

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I didn't bore the flange that fits to the manifold initially so I put it back on the lathe and bored it out to the pipe diameter.

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I was then able to line up the section of pipe that I crushed and split previously. At least it helped me work out what it needed to be; I have now sent a sketch off for a quote to have it bent for me.

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The radiator cap just pushes onto the filler; not the most secure of fixing methods. There is meant to be a chain to stop it getting lost but this was missing. I bought a brass basin chain from an internet store. I decided it still looked a bit flimsy so soldered each link.

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I then fitted it to the riveted loops in the radiator and cap.

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We fitted the bottom tank to the radiator with a rubber gasket and sealant, then replaced the incorrect bolts in the top tank with slotted cheese head machine screws.

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I decided it was time to start on the extremely complicated electrical system (4 HT leads, one magneto and two wires to the ignition switch). The ignition switch was picked up at an autojumble a few years ago but it seemed to be closed circuit no matter what position the switch was in.

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Before the body could be disassembled the pin from the middle of the toggle had to be removed.

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And then it could be seen that it worked by a brass roller making the connection between the terminals. 

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Taking all the parts out and laying them down it became obvious that someone had tried a repair before and replaced one of the insulating washers with one made from brass. This was obviously the problem.

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So as the remaining insulator was looking fairly poor I turned up new ones from a piece of peek I had left over from another project.

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Then refitted the terminals.

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You may remember I purchased the water pump from a Rolls Royce 20/25 to use as I have not been able to find anything better. After heating the drive yoke up I was able to lever it off the pump shaft splines and remove the gland nut.

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The nice thing about this pump is that there is plenty of information available. The impellor is fitted with a taper and thread; this was rather rusty so there is little chance it will come off.

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So I decided to remove all the gland parts so I could slide the shaft out with the impellor.

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The pump shaft was difficult to drive out; when it finally did come it was only by breaking this aluminium bush. The shaft was very well corroded into it so in the end I had to split the remains of it to get it off the shaft.

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But at least it was an easy part to make.

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And then just needed driving into the pump body.

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I found I did not have the correct size gland packing so it will have to wait until I go shopping.

 

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Following on from the pump, I need to link the engine up with the radiator. Pipe benders for large pipe were looking reasonably expensive even if I just wanted to hire them. A poorly listed internet auction came to the rescue and I purchased this one locally for about the price of a round of drinks.

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The only part missing was the pipe support so I found a piece of scrap aluminium from under the bench and made one on the shaper.

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Initially all I was able to make was modern art (aka scrap copper pipe with creases)

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I worked out that I needed to use a shim between the aluminium guide and the roller to ensure the guides followed the point of bend correctly (rather than the circular cross section in fact being about 1" in front of where the pipe was being bent). I was then able to move onto soldering the first pipe bend to the fitting at the top of the engine.

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An offset bend was made and trimmed to length.

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Lengths of hose and pipe clamps were prepared.

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And the parts fitted.

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There are still the lower connections to make but the pump needs to be fitted first.

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I drilled the sides of the bulkhead for No.10 screws to fit the door pillar.

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Then used a string line to mark the line from the side of the cab, and a line 2" long normal to that to carry the door hinges.

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The next step was to plane roughly to the first line.

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