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FFR Ignition


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Hi all new here. I picked up a very nice looking 1977 109 FFR last week as a project for myself and two mates, one a mechanic and the other ex-army driving instructor

 

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She is fairly sound, body is nice and straight and most work is cosmetic. We changed the oil and fuel on Tuesday and cleaned all the points ect. We found an issue with the fuel pump and know that it needs to be changed so we decided to do all the points, plugs, leads and dizzy at the same time.

 

Now this is what our electrics look like

 

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What we have is the 24-12v reducer connected to the coil with the shielded wires. Then from the coil to the shielded dizzy cap. Then unshielded HT leads going to normal Bosch spark plugs.

 

We don't want to spend £12 on each spark plug so want to convert the ignition to unshielded but keep the rest of the 24v system in place.

 

Can this be done? If so, is it easy? Gives me a headache thinking about it! Any help very much appreciated.

 

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Obtain a new set of bog-standard 12 volt HT wires.

 

Best to keep your original dizzy cap & screened leads.

 

Remove the 4 qty. screened HT leads to plugs from dizzy cap.

 

You can use if you wish to make things easier , carefully remove the screws holding the inner thermo-set plastic dizzy cap from the outer shell.

 

Secure the 12 volt wires to the inner-cap , re-fit outer & cement around the apertures with silicone mastic , fit 12 volt plugs - connect & GO !

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What we have is the 24-12v reducer connected to the coil with the shielded wires. Then from the coil to the shielded dizzy cap. Then unshielded HT leads going to normal Bosch spark plugs.

 

We don't want to spend £12 on each spark plug so want to convert the ignition to unshielded but keep the rest of the 24v system in place.

 

Can this be done? If so, is it easy?

 

It looks as is someone has already done it.

 

I would keep the screened cable system around the coil & to the distributor as the integral connectors are far better than anything one rig up to replace it.

 

It looks as if it needs a bit of TLC, I would replace the distributor capacitor as that will be suspect. But use any 0.2mfd distributor capacitor from a Series 2 or 3. Don't waste money on an expensive 24v one,

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It looks as is someone has already done it.

 

I would keep the screened cable system around the coil & to the distributor as the integral connectors are far better than anything one rig up to replace it.

 

It looks as if it needs a bit of TLC, I would replace the distributor capacitor as that will be suspect. But use any 0.2mfd distributor capacitor from a Series 2 or 3. Don't waste money on an expensive 24v one,

 

How would I get the screened cable to fit a normal s2/3 capacitor, is it the same screw in fitting?

 

Ruxy, did you change those HT leads from screened to push on's?

 

Jim

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Hey all

 

Got her started today but had to do a bit of surgery on the fuel system. The cork washer on the fuel tank selector switch has perished. Does anyone know of a good supplier for this part?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

These are readily available.

You have a choice

Pay a premium for a Land Rover tap cork seal

 

or

 

get a cheaper version for a Fergusen TE20/TVO tap

 

 

Mike

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