Bedford MW oil

[Davey089]

Sorry for going over old ground here . I bought SAE 30 engine oil and 140 oil for the gearbox and diff after asking the question quite a while ago . I was told today not to use the 140 but to use Hypoid 90 for the differential , the person that told me is a well known supplier of MV truck parts .

 

I was quite happy using my original purchase's and still am , what puzzles me is why tell me to use hypoid 90 :nut:when the majority of MV owners who have helped me no end on here use the 140. This came into conversation by mentioning to him among other things that I was washing out the Diff and refilling with fresh oil.

 

140 and SAE30 is the way to go ? yes or no or 90 in the diff.................I have 15ltrs of 140 lol

 

Thanks

 

Dave

Edited November 11, 2014 by Davey089

[Starfire]

It looks like the original spec was for an SAE 140 and it was changed to an EP90 later on. I'd guess that either would work and you should be fine with whatever you have; changing to the EP90 next time.

 

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?35250-Bedford-Mw-oil

 

Cheers,

Terry

[Davey089]

Thanks Terry , I was debating whether to change it too the "modern" oil , also the maybe the gearbox ?

 

Is there are any advantages going with the EP90 over the 140?

 

Dave

[arcot1751]

I seem to remember reading somewhere the reason for not using EP90 on SOME vehicles is their use of phosphor bronze bearings ? Maybe someone here can explain which vehicles should or shouldn't use which ?

[Pete Ashby]

Thanks Terry , I was debating whether to change it too the "modern" oil , also the maybe the gearbox ?

 

Is there are any advantages going with the EP90 over the 140?

 

Dave

 

There is a school of thought that suggests EP(hypoid) oils will attack what our US friends call 'Yellow Metal' ie phosphor bronze,brass,copper alloys found in some gear cluster bushes, thrust washers and in the case of synchro mesh units the blocking rings.

I'm not sure that the degree of attrition is proven in our relatively slow speed low use trucks but I would suggest on balance caution and not use an EP oil if there is any yellow metal present.

 

The other factor that won't concern you but is worth noting for those who run jeeps is that the EP additive will reduce friction and prevent correct operation of the blocking rings on the synchro hub making for clunky gear changes.

 

As for 140 vs 90 I have run CMP's Dodges and GMC's with either without a problem the only comment I would make is that in cool weather there is significantly more drag using 140 until everything gets moved round and warmed up, in an MW from cold don't expect to get into top for half a mile or so.

In your engine use straight 30 with a low detergent content this is much better suited to older design engine filtration systems and I think gives better overall pressure stability across the operating range.

For what it's worth I use Morris Oils not the cheapest by far but it does what it says on the can.

 

Pete

[Tony B]

I have a pair of Dodge WC 3/4 tonners, the WC51 and the 54. I use striaght 90 in the diffs and box and 20/50 oil in the engines. I am (JUST!) old enough to remeebr the fanfare when modern cutting edge 'Multigrade' engine oils were introduced. My experience is everything runs on the old straight oils, within the limitations of the oil. The 90 and 20/50 just make life easier, especially after long runs the engine oil pressure stays higher and recovers faster, the transmissiom as said has less drag. Engine oil my current one is the Halford's Classic 20/50.

[Davey089]

Thanks for all the responses . I run the Welbike on 140 after that being recommended by Villiers Services , which is like treacle

 

I approached a friend of mine who owns a motor factor business to buy the 140 oil from him , not having it on the shelf he recommended an oil supplier/blending company who he deals with ,so I told him to sort some out .

 

When I got the oil and looked at it , it was thinner than the Villiers Service 140 grade so I questioned it with the supplier. To cut a long story short they tested the Villiers oil (they have a lab) explained to me all the tech spec between the two oils .

 

Basically their blended oil is obviously 140, its made so it gets around the box quicker .How he explained it was (without all the tech data , because he lost me :nut:) ............ when both oils get to temperature (he did quote actual figures but I can't remember) the blended oil stays thicker longer and doesn't break down as the std 140 would do and will also reduce drag .

 

Taking on board what has been said I'll stick with the 140 .

 

Thanks again for the feedback its been very helpful.

 

Dave

[Degsy]

I have a pair of Dodge WC 3/4 tonners, the WC51 and the 54. I use striaght 90 in the diffs and box and 20/50 oil in the engines. I am (JUST!) old enough to remeebr the fanfare when modern cutting edge 'Multigrade' engine oils were introduced. My experience is everything runs on the old straight oils, within the limitations of the oil. The 90 and 20/50 just make life easier, especially after long runs the engine oil pressure stays higher and recovers faster, the transmissiom as said has less drag. Engine oil my current one is the Halford's Classic 20/50.

 

This subject , in particular the use of 30 grade oil in older vehicles has been worked to death in previous threads and several members have attempted to educate TB regarding his use of multigrade and even recommended speaking to Morris's tech dept but I am afraid all advice has fallen on stony ground. (Horses and water, drinking of,) come to mind:n00b:

[Richard Farrant]

This subject , in particular the use of 30 grade oil in older vehicles has been worked to death in previous threads and several members have attempted to educate TB regarding his use of multigrade and even recommended speaking to Morris's tech dept but I am afraid all advice has fallen on stony ground. (Horses and water, drinking of,) come to mind:n00b:

 

Degsy,

I was banging my head on the wall when I read his post earlier ......... the only oil he is qualified to talk about is Neatsfoot oil.

[Degsy]

Degsy,

I was banging my head on the wall when I read his post earlier ......... the only oil he is qualified to talk about is Neatsfoot oil.

 

And I know where it should be used;)