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Hi Lex,

 

It's a field mod :) the problem was that the weldings on the replica were sturdier then the ones on the original exhaust.

taking off the bracket would have damaged the exhaust. But on the other hand it does runs alot more quiet then before.

 

Do you use your kick start often to start the engine? Mine doesn't work very well,seems to be slipping when getting over the TDC under compression.

Do you happen to have a drawing of how the clutch works?

What's the best way to switch off the engine? just closing off the fuel?

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Ok, yes I have the same silencer, and remember it was a pain to get the bracket off!

 

The kickstarter, yes always use it, when it starts slipping the clutch plates are going! they get thin, so the kickstarter slips, strangely the bike runs OK with them, and does not slip, I rode it a year or so, but then it got too bad, I changed the plates, and is perfect now. Changing the plates needs a special tool, that can be made, have all this info somewhere, but there is a big spring clip that holds it all together, taking apart is easy (use eye protection!!), but assembling, you have to compress the springs!!

 

You can do all this with the engine in the frame, only need to remove the cover, what oil/grease are you using? the original (Ambroleum) is very difficult to obtain nowadays, I use OO-grease (double O) you can buy it anywhere.

 

To shut off the engine, you need the right switch on the handlebars, there is the hi-lo beam, and on top the engine cut out, just a wire to the points, that connects to earth on the bars, and engine stops.

 

This switch is not 100% original, but works for me;

30112011231.jpg

 

Will see if I have the info on the computer on the clutch, I do have the big 1942 army Maintenance manual, but not scanned (yet) more proof they were used by the army!

 

Cheers,

 

Lex

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Hi Lex,

 

Thanks for the info, could have guessed the clutch is on it's way out... But like you said, when riding the bike you can't notice it. The seller told me not to use the kick start and that you were supposed to run the bike to start it... Now i know why. :undecided: :nut:

Will open the clutch cover tomorrow and see how far they're gone.

Any ideas on where to get a couple of new plates?

Haven't really looked yet at the oil but it does seem more like grease that's in it then oil.

I'm probably going to use gel-oil which is special for gearboxes with primitive seals.

 

The switch on mine is different and doesn't seem to have the button.

 

Interesting to hear about the army manual.

 

Niek

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Niek, I can email you the clutch pages, but strongly advise to order the whole book in reprint here:

 

http://www.wk-verlag.de/Katalog/Motorrad-Moped-Mofa-Roller/DKW/DKW-SB-KS-NZ-RT-Vorkriegsmodelle-Reparaturanleitung/A584

 

Book is from 1944 btw.!! an original will cost about 10 times as much now! Klaus also has reprints of all the other books, but I just have a craving for originals......

 

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I remember what I did now, had no time to make the special tool (have the drawings) so on asking advice from a friend, used a large C-clamp, and that did the trick, to take it apart and together again.

 

The not using of the kickstarter is in the riders manual, of the copy of this bike, "The Flying Flea", more aptly called "The Dying Flea"

 

pm sent with link to plates.

 

Cheers,

 

Lex

Edited by welbike
adding info

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Weeeell this is what's left of the clutch... Lock plate was made out of a piece tin can.

At one point during it's lifetime the big retainer holding the clutch plates broke...

No problem they thought, we'll just weld it to the clutch housing instead of getting a new retainer. Found a set of new clutch plates, now just looking for a new retainer.

Had to make an improvised tool to disassemble the clutch.

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Edited by Dodge'40-'45

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Clutch Part 001 (2).jpg Can I ask where you got your new clutch plates from I'm trying to find a replacement Clutch part but having no luck.

Cheers

Dave

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Hi Dave,

 

Got my clutch plates from Ebay. As for the clutch part, have you tried Greiner-Oldtimer parts?

They have quite an amount of DKW parts.

 

Niek

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Hi all,

 

Don't know where to get this part either, do know it's a stamping that is hardened afterwards, maybe something can be made with a little thrust bearing?

 

Have you tried: http://motorrad-stemler.de/index.htm

 

In 2 weeks time I'll be going to a big german autojumble, I can have a look there.

 

Cheers,

 

Lex

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Thanks for that Lex it is very kind of you.

I think my lock plate was made out of the same tin can as Niek's

 

Regards

Dave

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Operation Clutch, Part 2.

 

New Clutch plates arrived. We found a new retainer at a friend's place, after some adjustment it fitted.

 

Next up was fitting the clutch plates. the biggest problem was compressing the springs.

We found out a press drill and a big ratchet socket did the trick just fine.

The retainer fitting of the clutch housing was damaged by the previous spot welding.

We had to spot weld the retainer back in place to be absolutely sure it wouldn't come loose again.

Last up was fitting the clutch back in and making a new lock ring.

 

Pleased with the result, Kick starter is working fine now.

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Hi just buying a DKW 1937 98cc Motorcycle and will be looking for decals could you tell me where you got them regards                  john

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hi all just bought a dkw 98cc engine says 1937 how do i translate the numbers on the front of the bike what do they mean top number is 459597 next number down is 249563 the 2.5 then 5.0k something need to get a nova help please.

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Can you post a picture of the headstock and plate please? and the engine number, I have the book with all the DKW numbers.

Cheers,

Lex

Page 01.jpg

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thanks for the help the engine says 37 behind the kickstart. i need to nova it because i have no paperwork with it at all. i bought it at a military show last weekend.so i know nowt as they say.do you know how to nova a bike so i am the owner to register with dvla. thanks for any help you can help me with,

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Ok, had a look, and it's from 1936, see scan of page, those are the frame numbers, that is the second number down from your headstock plate, the top number is the original engine number, so engine has been replaced at some point, but this happened a lot after the war.  Have no idea about the DVLA, as I'm in Holland, but can imagine if you add these scans to your application they can see that it is from 1936.

Cheers,

Lex

Page 26-27.jpg

Edited by welbike

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Here's the page with the engine numbers, the 1937 date on your engine is correct, as it shows up as such.

The good thing about these bikes is that they were never made postwar, and and were replaced in 1940 with the RT125, I have many, many original black and white pictures in my files with German army use.

Cheers,

Lex

 

Page 10-11.jpg

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thank you lex for the help i,m sure i will be keeping in touch with you as i start to restore the little bike during the winter, and i hope to be going to arnhem next year when i retire so maybe we can link up and ill buy you a beer. speak soon and thanks again. phil  west midlands uk.

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