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Scammell Pioneer Restoration

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at this point i think it's time to mention that each hub is matched to its taper and the keys on that particular wheel station....and to jumble all the bits up and put them back willy and or nilly is to have a scammell that will shed rear wheels for fun....and the keys even have to go in their own keyway on each hub......they should already be marked up but its always worth having the center pop handy

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Yeah i always make sure to keep things like this in their original positions, i hadn't thought i would need to keep the keys in their original position. So, yep the centre punch will come out and make sure of that.

 

Thanks for the advice, Richard

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A milestone achieved today. Finally got the first of the rear hubs off. Thanks to the lend of a purpose made puller, me swinging on a spanner some 6+ feet long and a bit of sledge hammering off it came. Gate is open to get them all off now.

Richard

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That's good news! Fancy hydraulics and improvisation not needed then?

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No Roger, I was going to PM you with my happy news, but you've found it.

Many thanks for your ideas and offer of help.

 

Richard

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A question for those of you who have had Pioneer or Explorer rear hubs off:

What did you do about the seal?

The original is some ghastly spring loaded lash up, and I'm thinking about retro fitting a modern lip seal.

The seal housing is O/D 6.3/4, I/D 5.1/4 and 1/2" deep. I've found that there is an off the shelf lip seal with a 6.1/4 O/D, so I'm thinking about using that and machining an adaptor ring to take up the difference. I'm also thinking about putting the hub in the mill and taking a skim off the sealing diameter because that's in a bit of a mess.

What you think?

 

Richard

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A load of us had some seals made up for the Explorers.....rubber lip seals with a steel outer case..two seals in each hub....not sure if pie on ear is the same set up though

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A load of us had some seals made up for the Explorers.....rubber lip seals with a steel outer case..two seals in each hub....not sure if pie on ear is the same set up though

 

Oh really, thats interesting. Do you have any drawings, photos or scans from the manual showing what the originals and your replacements look like?

 

Cheers, Richard

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I haven't done an update here for a long time so here goes.

 

The water cavity side cover on the air compressor was cracked so dad and I made a new one.

 

P1010558_zps3ke3tcbr.jpg

 

Tried removing the core plugs, but only two would come peacefully the rest had to be cut out. I tried finding replacements, but after turning up a blank had a pattern made, got some cast and machined them at home.

 

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White metal bearings are finally done, crank, camshaft, pistons and rods are all in. One of the discs that comprises the torsional damper was cracked so I had a new one made, as my lathe isn't big enough to do it myself.

 

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The large plate that bolts onto the back of the block and incorporates the rear engine mounts is held in place by 6 studs, four bolts and four fitted bolts. When I installed the fitted bolts it dragged the plate over to one side to the point that the crank rear flange was snug against one side of the hole in the plate. The manual states an even clearance should be sought right round the flange. So after much deliberation I decided to ream out the holes and make new bolts. Ended up with a clearance of 4 to 6 thou round the flange so I'm happy.

 

I'm just reassembling the last of the brake assemblies. I have fitted new leather seals, shown below with an original.

 

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The timing chain adjuster bearing nut is very thin and had been done up so tight it had dished, so I've made a new one of those.

 

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Engine is now back upright, and we're cracking on with fitting all the other bits.

 

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We have also moved into a new workshop over Christmas. Dry, concrete floor, "facilities" - brilliant.

 

I'm a bit concerned about our trackrod. The threads in one end are stretched and not really wanting it to strip all together and loose the steering on the road I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has a spare in good condition.

 

Richard

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I dug out the timing case cover recently because I need it to set the compressor drive shaft in the right position, and found that whatever ham-fisted mech assembled it last had mangled the two locating dowels - something else to repair.

 

IMG_0769_zpsxbablzw1.jpg

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Going back to removing brake drums, for those of you who have had them off Pioneers and Explorers - how tight did you do the big retaining nut back up? I "centre-popped" the end of the shaft and nut so I could see how tight it was done up before removal, but I've done them back up and can't get them quite back as tight as they were, but they are done up damn tight. I have a scaffold pole extension on the proper spanner which I stand on then dad whacks it with a sledge hammer. Ok you think?

 

Richard

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Bit a of milestone reached this weekend. After waiting 4 months for the sand blasting man to return all the cab bits, we finally lifted the frame on ready to start skinning.

Engine is also making progress. I'm currently stripping the heads and will soon take them to get the valve seats re-cut and the valves re-ground.

I've also stripped the injector pump and rebuilt it with new bearings. I vapour blasted the casings to give them that lovely fresh as-cast look, and i've lined up a local guy to re-build the pump elements and calibrate it.

 

Richard

 

IMG_1155_zpsxepdcoyk.jpg

 

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looks very good, going back together is always satisfying, where did you get the leather from for the rear hub seals, could probably do with replacing mine.

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Ditto looks like great progress and source of leather seals would be good to know we ve got a hub oil seal leak to tackle soon.

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Sorry its taken a while to come back, i had to dig the invoice out.

 

Oil seals came from PAR Group (http://www.par-group.co.uk), they are 3mm thick leather and i had them cut with a 210 o/d and 130 i/d.

 

If you speak to them quote invoice number AINV028604, and just ask for more of the same.

 

Good luck, Richard

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Sorry its taken a while to come back, i had to dig the invoice out.

 

Oil seals came from PAR Group (www.par-group.co.uk), they are 3mm thick leather and i had them cut with a 210 o/d and 130 i/d.

 

If you speak to them quote invoice number AINV028604, and just ask for more of the same.

 

Good luck, Richard

 

thanks for this richard,

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No probs John, glad to help.

 

Thanks Steve

 

Wonder if it's same seal on tank transporter and breakdown we've got both that need doing !

 

Ed, having looked at the pictures in the workshop manual, its the same leather washer arrangement but from the pictures it looks like they could well be different diameters.

 

Richard

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Evening all,

Has anyone got dimensions for the size and position of the hatch in the floor of the rear body on a Pioneer recovery, as indicated in the picture?

Many thanks, Richard

hatch.JPG

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Thought i'd do a bit of an update.

We've re-skinned the cab completely.

I formed the tapered curved sections on the sides of the roof by bending the panels around the Scammell's track rod.

We are missing one of the door locks so after considering the options i made one form scratch.

 

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We've done alot of welding on the overall chain storage locker, including completly re-making the back end, new floor and new front panel.

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