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1941 Morris Commercial 8cwt PU Restoration 2014


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Out of interest how good or otherwise is the supply of spares for Morris Commercials such as the CS8, PU and C8?

 

Ivor is right ! There are some mechanical parts, nothing 'new old stock' so to speak, but any tin work is a no no, you have to be good at fabrication !

 

But that's why we enjoy the challenge !

 

Jules

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  • 1 month later...
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Sorry for the delay in posting an update on the restoration.

 

I have been very busy, despite these cold days and long dark nights, I have braved the workshop night after night to blast clean smaller parts and prime ready for assembly all sorts of components.

 

most notably I have been overhauling the gear box, which is in very good condition internally.

 

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with research the colour for Morris Engines & Gearboxes was very close to 'Brunswick green' it's quite a striking colour !

 

I have also completely stripped the chassis, both axles off and in the middle of stripping the brake cylinder / shoes.

 

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one question to ask is, what do you recommend I do to straighten this !

 

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Must have been a hell of a fast reverse ?

 

more later......................

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My brother was once towed on a muddy show field. In his haste he put the rope around axle and track rod! Luckily there was a blacksmith displaying on site. He took the track rod, got it red hot and with one clout on the anvil it was staight as a die! Might be worth finding a 'good' smithy.

 

Lovely restoration work by the way.

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  • 1 year later...

QqWell, sorry for the long time in last posting progress on the PU , I have been busy with all the small bits like the brake systems and both axles were worked on a few months ago, along with rebuilding the leaf springs.

 

So, following the chassis blasting and primer coat, followed by two good coats of Khaki green number 3 , there was just one thing stopping me from starting the build up, our 1970 Triumph Herald, in the garage, well that was sold last weekend so work got straight underway on assembly, so last week saw the chassis married to the axles via the leaf springs, wheels on temporary to aid movement.

 

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So this weekend it was time to drop the engine & gearbox in thanks to Tom, it went well

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Looking nice

 

re: the brake pipes, they used a strange single flared end on the pipes . I am wondering what you are planning on doing ?

 

Are you making the bodywork from scratch ? My unrestored PU is pretty original - you need any details let me know and I will check it out for you . Do you have my set of drawings ?

 

Did you reset the springs? If so, how did you do it ?

Edited by goanna
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Looking nice

 

re: the brake pipes, they used a strange single flared end on the pipes . I am wondering what you are planning on doing ?

 

Are you making the bodywork from scratch ? My unrestored PU is pretty original - you need any details let me know and I will check it out for you . Do you have my set of drawings ?

 

Did you reset the springs? If so, how did you do it ?

 

Hello Mike

 

i have a tool for flaring the ends like the originals, but looking at the originals being brass, they are very good and probably more solid than the modern brake tubing, however i will evaluate each section as i go.

yes, i do have a copy of your excellent drawings they were a great use to me with the Humber PU and will again for the Morris.

 

one tiny detail that is baffling me is the position of the brass fuel filter that sits behind the carb, and i believe bolts at the top onto the inlet manifold ? any photos of that area would be really useful please.

 

cheers

 

Jules

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Hi

 

When it comes time for you to build the cab , if you need any dimensions , then don't hesitate to ask me and I will be glad to help.

 

The body dimension drawings I produced of the rear body are 100% accurate . Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your windscreen appears to be the late "high" type.

 

They increased the height of the windscreen by approx. 3" at some point in the production of the PU . This modification may have been because they had problems with the canvas top flapping about and hitting the occupants ! I have a PU Windscreen frame that has been

" field modified" - somebody has welded in 3" extensions each side .

 

The colour you have chosen looks nice, it appears to be Light Bronze Green , from the BSC colour chart ? I found that colour as the original base colour on one of my CS8's , its a light grassy green . Mike

Edited by goanna
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Your windscreen appears to be the late "high" type.

 

They increased the height of the windscreen by approx. 3" at some point in the production of the PU . This modification may have been because they had problems with the canvas top flapping about and hitting the occupants ! I have a PU Windscreen frame that has been

" field modified" - somebody has welded in 3" extensions each side .

 

The colour you have chosen looks nice, it appears to be Light Bronze Green , from the BSC colour chart ? I found that colour as the original base colour on one of my CS8's , its a light grassy green . Mike

 

yes Mike your right, it is the higher windscreen as it's a 1941 production model, i'm sure it will be nicer to drive without the canvas flapping on my head !

 

The colour is extreamly close to Khaki Green No3 and i matched it from a lovely clean area of original paint on the Voltage regulator bracket, when i removed the Voltage Reg, there it was, i have kept that bit original.

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Lovely work Jules. I just love the PU 4x2....in fact all 8cwt's.

 

I agree with the others on the Khaki Green G3; it does look very good. I am also using G3 on my Chev C8, premixed by auradesign in the Czech republic...might be a hair darker than the mix you have, although that's difficult to see in the pictures.

 

Alex

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