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Grit Blast cabinet


ploughman

Question

Why won't our grit blast cabinet work?

Last year we bought a new Sealey cabinet and after about 6 months got round to assembling it.

Followed the idiots guide to the letter and all seemed OK as we progressed.

Coupled it up to a suitable compressor and air gets pumped out but no grit.

Tried differing levels of grit in the hopper but no luck.

Grit is fine grade but I think we need to go coarser for the rust we need to get through.

 

Any ideas?

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1. Have you definitely got enough airflow? (the manufacturer's figures are probably over-optimistic)

 

2. As it's been sat has the grit got damp? The grit won't lift if it's damp, it just wants to stick together - try drying it at low temperature in an oven before use.

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Mine works fine, I use kiln dried paving sand

 

That's illegal (or at least extremely dangerous), I think? :shocked:

 

The use of actual sand as an abrasive in sandblasting was banned because you get silicosis from inhaling the fine particles produced, which is why the "grit" used these days is aluminium oxide or other manufactured abrasive.

 

A quick rummage finds: http://www.hse.gov.uk/press%5C2008/coinw01708.htm and a search on "sand blasting silicosis" will probably turn up a lot more stuff.

 

 

 

Chris.

(This post brought to you by the elves who drink safe tea. (Because elfin safe tea is very important: you've only got one set of lungs.)

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That's illegal (or at least extremely dangerous), I think? :shocked:

 

The use of actual sand as an abrasive in sandblasting was banned because you get silicosis from inhaling the fine particles produced, which is why the "grit" used these days is aluminium oxide or other manufactured abrasive.

 

A quick rummage finds: http://www.hse.gov.uk/press%5C2008/coinw01708.htm and a search on "sand blasting silicosis" will probably turn up a lot more stuff.

 

 

 

Chris.

(This post brought to you by the elves who drink safe tea. (Because elfin safe tea is very important: you've only got one set of lungs.)

 

A cabinet sandblaster doesn't expose the operator to the sand or removed particles as it is done in a cabinet fully sealed.

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A cabinet sandblaster doesn't expose the operator to the sand or removed particles as it is done in a cabinet fully sealed.

 

Really? You are putting 24cfm of air at ~100psi into a fully sealed cabinet. I call that a bomb, unless it has an elaborate filtration system and an exhaust port.

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I have a very powerfull extractor connected to the cabinet with a 30micron filter.. No dust settling in my workshop..

 

Not sure what your point is about the 24cfm? That is just the amount of air the compressor is capable of delivering at a constant rate..

Edited by Marmite!!
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FOR INFORMATION RCS IS EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS please read the following and bear in mind that a 30 micron filter won't save you. The human eye can see about 40 microns.

Respirable crystalline silica (RCS) refers to particles of crystalline silica less than four microns in size, or particulate matter 4 (PM4). PM4-sized particles can penetrate deep into the lungs, where the most critical effects of RCS– silicosis and cancer – are thought to occur.

 

Best regards

John

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Well since somebody else mentioned it - use of sand in a sandblaster is illegal in the UK and has been for a while. Basic problem is sand breaks down into a particle size that gives you silicosis, and a dust mask doesn't really help, as mentioned.

 

I use aluminium oxide 60 grit plus a really good dust mask. It will recycle numerous times if sieved each time. It retails at just over £1 per kilo but transport can add 50% to that, or you can just go to Machine Mart and give them £2 per kilo.

 

I've contacted a coating company locally with a view to getting crushed glass expendable grit for around the same £1 per kilo. Although 'expendable' the chap there said it would reuse once or twice. The advantage to me is that I should be able to pick it up in 25Kg bags as many as I want as often as I'm passing his place.

 

The key to all this is a big compressor air source. Forget single phase, really needs to be three phase or diesel. Actual blast equipment is really cheap. Hodge Clemco is the best, but I just use a generic Chinese 10 gallon pressurised pot you can get from E-Bay or Amazon for around £110 ( or pay Machine Mart £225 for the same thing with a Clarke sticker )

 

I was blasting the drivers compartment of my T-36 today, got one side and one end done and primed. The little unit is fairly slow, but I bought it for some specific work, as on the T-36 I'll be able to blast the track frames, rollers, and idlers in place and that will save me having to split the main machine into three bits. I still might take the cab and loose ironwork to the professionals and just get it all back done in a weekend - would probably be cheaper if I factored in the time it would take me to do the bulk stuff.

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A cabinet blaster should be filtered and the exhaust routed out side the building.

Sand can be and is used with wet blasting with a water pressure cleaner and sand blasting attachment.

I use a chinese potable vacuum machine and a cabinet blaster as well as a cheap total loss gun using garnet as the blasters work better with garnet and it comes packed very dry.

If using sand from the beach ect........is a waste of time as it is still damp even though it looks totally dry and will not work in a blaster which recycles the sand/grit.

Wet blasting is a option I am switching over to because of costs and no need for a large compressor working hard.

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No idea, but one is and one isn't :D

 

To be fair the glass is crystalline and identified as a consumable ( rather than recyclable ) abrasive so I'd guess recycling glass endlessly might be a problem too. I had a quick stare on Google and the professional / company fine for using sand seems to be about £50,000 these days;

 

http://www.hse.gov.uk/press%5C2008/coinw01708.htm

 

I had no idea that the prohibition ran back that far, though;

 

Blasting of articles using sand containing free silica has been banned since 1950 and can lead to silicosis, which is progressive, irreversible and can continue to develop after exposure ceases.

 

.... if it was seen as a health issue in 1950, when everyone smoked, had coal fires, and used leaded petrol, then I can only imagine it was seen as a particular hazard.

 

Anyway, doing fine on Aluminium Oxide here, which is fine for blasting pretty much anything - except for the price.

Edited by Gordon_M
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The most basic LEV test for a cabinet door dust seal to workplace would be to use the so called "Tyndall Lamp" . Regarding silica sand , protection for employees in workplace - does your garage / shed come under such as Machinery & COSHH Regulations.

 

So , if you are crossing a middle-east desert and get caught in a sand storm , same dangerous sand , in fact the finer ends often cover your car in the UK LoL Then you would just use your "shemagh" - I don't think the arabs are walking around with a Sundström protective mask , so where are all the statistics quoted for respiratory silicosis deaths due to the force of nature ?? All those cheapo blasting cabinets & pressure vessels dumped by the container load , will have caused far,far more industrial Silicosis deaths in China.

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And Finally , IMHO

 

If you spend your 14 days summer holiday , inside or preferably in the open-air of your garden , 8 hours per day DIY sand-blasting with B&Q kiln dried patio slab gap-filler ,,

 

The FINAL choice is all yours LoL

 

http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/particulate_final/particulate_final_s06.htm

 

You can do it, if you B&Q it!................

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