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Morris C8GS


Rick W

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Yup, will deffo be checking these first. ;-)

thanks for that, though. :tup:

 

All the best,

 

Andy

 

 

Andy,

 

 

There were NOS generators for Bedford 28hp a while back, still in wooden box and wax sealed, also the CAV 19X control box his not too difficult to find as they were used on so many vehicles.

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Rik,

If you still need to make up the cab I have several components you can use as patterns of you want me to bring them on Monday??

 

Jules - are around that day as I 'm near by?

 

Simon

 

Think we are more or less sorted on that front now, fingers crossed anyway!

The dynamo is now in place, wired up to the control box, earthed out at the chassis, ready for a slightly longer run next week.

Does anyone know of a place I can get a starter button switch for it, also need some spares for the fuel tank that is on, the reserve wont pick up, any ideas welcome.

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Does anyone know of a place I can get a starter button switch for it,

 

 

 

Rick,

 

The starter button switch was a fairly well used item, and Lucas have produced it up until recently, it may well still be available from them. I bought one from a electrical supply firm recently, but cannot remember who.

 

There are two versions, one with the grub screws as original, and the other has Lucar terminals. The part no's are SPB105 for the grub screw type and SPB106 for the Lucar type. Bezel rim is now chrome, wher the originals were black painted brass.

 

Richard

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Think we are more or less sorted on that front now, fingers crossed anyway!

The dynamo is now in place, wired up to the control box, earthed out at the chassis, ready for a slightly longer run next week.

Does anyone know of a place I can get a starter button switch for it, also need some spares for the fuel tank that is on, the reserve wont pick up, any ideas welcome.

 

As for the resrve, How are they fed on these? Is it turn tap in which case check tap or with baffle in tank, then check length of fuel tube goes in far enough. Are you on autovac or fuel pump?
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Those starters are far too small Richard, I did have a look on the auto electrical supplies website though and found the direct replacement part number SRB311 2.5" in diameter, even better, one of my suppliers can get it for me!

 

 

Rick,

 

Thats odd, because the one I quoted is as in the C8 parts list. The SRB311 is a type of switch normally used where no solenoid is fitted and the C8 has a solenoid on the end of the starter...........or should have :dunno:

 

Richard

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Aha! We had this conversation. Yes the smaller ones would take a starter solenoid, but mine didnt have one fitted. So the question is would it have had a starter solenoid as original fitment? Jules desert C8 and mine both have the larger one fitted. Any other Morris owners out there, what have you got fitted and where. What I do have is one of those items fitted on the rev "setter" on the plate which attaches to the steering column, an exact match. I assumed this was for a horn? Was this the original starter button?

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I don't seem to have one either and according to my book of words the starter is Lucas M.45G type FA.47 Service no. 027010Z. The quoted part no. for the starter switch is ST18 type FA47.

 

John and Rick,

 

The ST18 switch you have listed, John, is like was used on Bedford RL, etc. It is directly coupled to battery leads, eliminating need for a solenoid. Looking through the WD engine build up spec, there were three different Lucas starters fitted to the 4 cyl Morris Commercial and the C8 parts list I had to hand was for one with the solenoid on the end of the starter, the type with a manual starter button on it as well.

 

Well that sorted that out, sorry for the confusion here, but guess someone will have the other type. you may be better off though, because those solenoids on the starter end can be a little troublesome, they get burnt contacts.

 

Richard

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Regarding the failure to pick up fuel, my Dodge WC-7 used to have a real lurker of a problem whereby it would start and idle OK, but when it went off down the road, it would always stop at the same place, about 1/4 mile away. After a bit of cranking, it would start, and just about make it back before expiring again. Definitely a lack-of-fuel problem. The previous owner renewed EVERYTHING between the fuel tank and the engine, including the carburettor, to try and find the problem, to no avail. In the end he sliced the end off the fuel tank. Inside was quite clean, but he then found the problem purely by chance.

Where the fuel pipe enters the tank , there is a 90-degree elbow on the inside which holds the standpipe. This had the TINIEST of pinholes in it, well above the fuel level.

Now, just reflect on the cause and effect here, and all the diagnostic-steps any one of us may have taken before finding this, (if we ever found it at all!).

Recalled here to add to the already-amazing knowledge-base contained on this wonderful Forum! Hope it helps someone somewhere, sometime.

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Regarding the failure to pick up fuel, my Dodge WC-7 used to have a real lurker of a problem whereby it would start and idle OK, but when it went off down the road, it would always stop at the same place, about 1/4 mile away. After a bit of cranking, it would start, and just about make it back before expiring again. Definitely a lack-of-fuel problem. The previous owner renewed EVERYTHING between the fuel tank and the engine, including the carburettor, to try and find the problem, to no avail. In the end he sliced the end off the fuel tank. Inside was quite clean, but he then found the problem purely by chance.

Where the fuel pipe enters the tank , there is a 90-degree elbow on the inside which holds the standpipe. This had the TINIEST of pinholes in it, well above the fuel level.

Now, just reflect on the cause and effect here, and all the diagnostic-steps any one of us may have taken before finding this, (if we ever found it at all!).

Recalled here to add to the already-amazing knowledge-base contained on this wonderful Forum! Hope it helps someone somewhere, sometime.

 

 

Cheers for posting this. :-)

 

Just goes to show, doesn't it. :roll:

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A lot of progress has been made over the past couple of days, the new starter button has been sourced and installed, as has all the ignition wiring. We havent gone for the period look cotton covered wiring as we can do this at a later date. We've got a lot of spare wiring lurking on our back shelves so it doesnt matter as much if we make a mistake with it! The fuel lines have had a final check and tighten and all the joints checked. The exhaust was easily fabricated, especially when you have a stack of exhausts to choose from!

restoblog027.jpg

 

After much head scratching from ourselves and helpful suggestion from the audience, the engine was run for about 30 seconds on 2 runs, the first one being very smokey!

Next job - plumbing in the rad and pipework.....

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