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Not posted for some time as progress slowed over Christmas & New Year - gearbox is almost rebuilt - awaiting a coat of NATO green before sending back to workshop. Hopefully have it back together mid April with no dramas.

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After an initially promising start to yesterday afternoon by replacing a leaking tank union & reconnecting the air intake hose, a large air leak appears to be causing the rear axle to almost lock resulting in overheated brakes on a short test drive. Investigation to happen today.

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After five hours of stripping, cleaning & fitting back various pipes, the anti-freezer(2) & valve(15) trying to chase/trace the lack of air we think there may be a fault with the unloader valve (4), changeover valve(16) or compressor (3). Air is being fed to tanks 5 & 7 but not 6. There are no audible leaks in that area. Next job is to get the supply pipes off the unloader valve to see if the compressor is feeding air.

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Nick,

Puzzled as to why you think an air leak might be causing the rear brakes (presume both axles?) to lock as unless you have some kind of spring brake modification, no air would mean no brakes. Are you sure the hill-holder brake has not been inadvertently activated (lever on steering column), or the handbrake valve faulty?

Can't see why air to the twin tank but not the single one, as it is fed directly from a common supply pipe. Your diagram seems to be different to mine, so the numbers are different, but if the red (single) tank is not filling there must either be a leak in the tank, or in the line from it to the foot take valve or the relay valve, all on the red line. If no air getting in to the red tank has the non return valve on the inlet line to the tank been fitted the wrong way round?

Dragging mine out of the garage this week for the first rally of the summer on Sunday. Fingers crossed!

Iain

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Passenger seat base fabricated, painted & fitted along with a new stronger floor & secure clamp for the batteries.

 

dual handbrake valve to be removed and pressure tested next.

 

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After having a total lack of air pressure in the system following a test drive once the rebuilt gearbox & refurbished clutch pack had been fitted I decided to call in Dr Air Brake from Wolverhampton. They traced the lack of air to a defective diaphragm in a valve just forward of the second axle. There was a wiring fault to the main gauge. Both of these were repaired and refitted.

 

I then decided to go for a test drive and this time the back axle did not drag, gear changes nice and smooth too. On returning to base I thought I'd try operating the crane as it hadn't moved for a year. As I came to use the lever to move the main boom up & down, nothing happened except a large gush of hydraulic fluid from under the back deck below the spare wheel. It must have dropped about 6 litres of oil.

 

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After this my Dad & I went round and sorted out several air leaks pictured below; union to bottom of footbrake valve, n/s outer air tank union, n/s inner union & one below the tyre inflator. There is one on a relay valve with some form of filter or

breather on it which I cannot tighten yet.

 

I rang an old work contact, a hydraulic firm called Tidyco in Derby - cheaper alternative to Pirtek, who attended this morning. A forklift had to be used to remove the spare wheel from the back deck (crane usually does this) then the fitter could get to & find the ruptured pipe to replace it, I will try and get photos of this.

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Seem to have made some headway today having fitted the new pressure regulating valve. Pressures range from 90 to 110 so looking good, also topped up & bled clutch hydraulics.

 

Got to do the same on my Militant as i have to pump the clutch about 6 times, i assume due to moisture in the system. What size spanner is needed for the upper bleed nipple, what version of DOT 4 did you use and do you need to bleed the slave cylinder too?

 

Thanks,

 

Ian.

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Hi Nick,

 

This has been and interesting ready and a very insightful since i have been going through the same challenges after collecting my AEC a couple of months ago.

 

Cheers,

 

Ian.

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Hi Ian,

 

yours looks a beauty, I can't remember the spanner size for the bleed nipple but will try to work it out on Friday & let you know. If I remember correctly you top up the fluid via a tiny header tank under the driver's seat. We didn't bleed the slave I don't recall.

 

Despite the big cost I'm glad the box & clutch pack is now sorted.

 

I need to tackle the cab interior next and drop the engine oil & filters.

 

cheers

 

nick

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Got to do the same on my Militant as i have to pump the clutch about 6 times, i assume due to moisture in the system. What size spanner is needed for the upper bleed nipple, what version of DOT 4 did you use and do you need to bleed the slave cylinder too?

 

Thanks,

 

Ian.

 

...just checked - page 14 of this thread for the DOT fluid - sure it was just from a local factor.

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Some more images from this weekend, found the leak from when the foot brake valve is pressed is from the exhaust port on the RIC valve, possibly the exhaust port not seating correctly. Few photos of the hydraulic repair also.

 

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Hi Ian,

 

yours looks a beauty, I can't remember the spanner size for the bleed nipple but will try to work it out on Friday & let you know. If I remember correctly you top up the fluid via a tiny header tank under the driver's seat. We didn't bleed the slave I don't recall.

 

Despite the big cost I'm glad the box & clutch pack is now sorted.

 

I need to tackle the cab interior next and drop the engine oil & filters.

 

cheers

 

nick

 

been looking about and it seems to be too big for a 3/8" or 10mm and too little for 7/16" or 11mm so the only one i can find to be between them is 13/32".

 

Did you get chance to check it out Nick?

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been looking about and it seems to be too big for a 3/8" or 10mm and too little for 7/16" or 11mm so the only one i can find to be between them is 13/32".

 

Did you get chance to check it out Nick?

 

7/16” fit perfect 👍🏻

 

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After stripping, cleaning & lubricating the RIC valve, my Dad & I tried reassembling it with the gasket above the new diaphragm to try and cure the air leak when the foot brake is pressed. Once fitted back to the truck tonight it worked a treat. Such a small change made all the difference.

Sequence was; valve block then push rod then diaphragm then gasket then lid.

 

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7/16” fit perfect 👍🏻

 

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Thanks, so, I must assume mine has bee rounded and I need a new nipple....once it get the old one off. Are they fairly easy to get hold of?

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After stripping, cleaning & lubricating the RIC valve, my Dad & I tried reassembling it with the gasket above the new diaphragm to try and cure the air leak when the foot brake is pressed. Once fitted back to the truck tonight it worked a treat. Such a small change made all the difference.

Sequence was; valve block then push rod then diaphragm then gasket then lid.

 

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did mine about 6 weeks ago as the brass clip inside had stopped thrcentre moving....wish I changed the diaphragm. At the same time. Did you make it or get one off the shelf?

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Thanks, so, I must assume mine has bee rounded and I need a new nipple....once it get the old one off. Are they fairly easy to get hold of?

 

I’ve yet to replace any fortunately, one of my next projects is to replace the grease nipples as quite a few are in need, if you get stuck sourcing any let me know as I have a local contact who may know - they must be out there somewhere.

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did mine about 6 weeks ago as the brass clip inside had stopped thrcentre moving....wish I changed the diaphragm. At the same time. Did you make it or get one off the shelf?

 

 

I’d called in a brake specialist as we couldn’t trace exactly where the fault was, they’d made the diaphragm then assembled it the wrong way round so I’ll be speaking to them about their invoice today.

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After a long absence due to family and work I’ve started to tidy the interior of the cab ready for sale - please DM me if interested. Iveco seat I removed a few years ago for sale separately.

 

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Bit more done in the cab this morning, engine cover & top of engine partially sanded for engine blue. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Sorry to hijack this thread, I sprayed my engine casing with the blue paint, ran engine and the paint has stripped off, any suggestions?

Edited by Surveyor

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32 minutes ago, Surveyor said:

Sorry to hijack this thread, I sprayed my engine casing with the blue paint, ran engine and the paint has stripped off, any suggestions?

Preparation of surface (ie, not clean, trace of oil), wrong type of paint for hot surfaces, primer incompatible  ....... just three possibilities. I use what is known as a machinery type paint, in the old days it was known as coach paint. Never had any problems.

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11 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Preparation of surface (ie, not clean, trace of oil), wrong type of paint for hot surfaces, primer incompatible  ....... just three possibilities. I use what is known as a machinery type paint, in the old days it was known as coach paint. Never had any problems.

Thanks, the cylinder head was new and painted black sprayed the engine blue straight on and mechanics fitted it, noticed today after first 25 miles when checking for a run tommorrow

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