militant-nick Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 I've taken advantage of the warm dry weather to start the cab with the aid of a Bosch sander. Today's efforts, more tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzo Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 hello nick , first, please accept my apologies for not being in contact with you , i have just been so very busy . as for the previous photo , well what can i say ? , very embarrassing , i can remember that day like it was yesterday . i was at the duram light infantry museum for the NEMVC anual show and they had to park me on the overspill field . when it came to leaving time on the monday the old girl decided to dump all it's auxilary air out of a valve that i was having trouble with . this disabled the diff locks and the drive to the front axle . i dont know what it is when something like that happens , but all the bloody photographers seem to appear from nowhere , bloody everywhere they where . but after that weekend no one was having it that i was trying to push that scammell up that hill on a solid chain . my good friend stuart bird wet himself when he got that photo on that day , and he always takes great pleasure in reminding me of it whenever we meet . luckly im a big scammell fan as well so the pain wasn't so bad . now to these photos , if i can remember how to upload them . these where when we painted the old girl in april 1992 , just prior to going to truckfest at peterborough . there was some slight repair work to the steel around the bottom of the cab , and the rest was just cleaning off the rust and some weld repair work to the locker doors and some of the body . the pink primer was just what the painter mixed up and it just happened to turn out pink . the paint job turned out well in the end , but we where a little pushed for time and i can remember still tuching up the wheel nuts on the truckfest show field . the last two photos are of some vintage trailers that we have collected over the years . first one was a drawbar flat for mine , and the second was a queen mary trailer to go behind my friends commer Q2 tractor unit . ok then nick i hope these photos are of interest to you . i will be in contact as soon as i get some free time . best wishes , garry . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Hello Garry, great to see yet more photos, again. Strange that I haven't seen much evidence of the striking pink primer when taking off the old paint. Perhaps it changed over time and I didn't notice it. I have yet to retrofit the jerry can holder, oxy cabinet & boom lights. was the top coat DBG or OD? Looks different between the photos. Still unsure which colour to go with yet. Found this image of militants in service on Facebook. hopefully speak soon Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzo Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 hello nick , if i remember correctly for this period any vehicles opperating in BAOR (germany) theatre where painted o/d or camoflage and all uk based vehicles where painted deep bronze green . personaly i prefer dbg as primer and o/d is porous and can allow water through to the steel , where dbg gloss top coat will seal the paint coating preventing ingress of water . plus it is far easy'er to keep clean , i have had large o/d painted vehicles before and they are always getting scrached and marked on trees and when you tuch up the marks it looks all patchy . hope this info is of help to you . garry . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Thanks for the info Garry. just did a quick google search and found images of the truck on this site ; http://flickrhivemind.net/flickr_hvmnd.cgi?method=GET&sorting=Interestingness&photo_type=250&page=1&noform=t&search_domain=Tags&photo_number=50&sort=Date%20Taken,%20new%20first&tag_mode=all&textinput=aec,militant&search_type=Tags&originput=aec,militant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Cab front tackled today with help of Dad. Found coolant breather adrift so secured it. Also found O/S upper rad bracket not attached, the rad seemed very secure without it and when we tried to fit it back it wouldn't quite reach. That along with the N/S bracket missing leads us to believe they were no longer required, new rad design fitted perhaps. This bracket has now been removed and stowed. Tie wrap added & small valve cleaned next to rad too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Looks great. Odd question - what kind of sander are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hello Corbs, Thanks, I've never done any sanding before and only needed one for the cab, I'm also unlikely to be sanding any more vehicles anytime soon so opted for the Bosch sander below for £40 which came with 5 medium grit Velcro pads. I purchased 5 more for £5 too. I opted for mains power so I could work it all day. It took 3 pads to do the n/s and 3 for the front. Cuts through the old paint, rust and filler just fine. Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Thanks, might have to splash out on one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Managed a couple more hours on the o/s of cab Saturday morning before the rain started just as I was ready to paint! If the weather holds this coming Thursday & Friday I'm planning to finish prepping the cab and wiring in a new horn behind the front grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Dodged the random rain showers today and painted the o/s of cab. Also started to remove the air horns. Hope to get the roof sanded & primered tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 It's coming along nicely, and it is very red - no risk of losing it in Tesco's carpark trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks Trevor, it is looking more like a fire service vehicle as time goes by. This last few days my dad & I installed the new 139db horn, fixed an air leak and I removed the old horns, sanded & painted the roof, it now looks a lot tidier and smarter. the old air horns will be listed on this site for sale shortly. The truck is missing one of the roof hatch pads, as shown in the photo, if anyone knows of any suppliers or has ever made their own replacement I would be interested to know please. the truck is also missing the rad cap cover which sits directly above the AEC badge, it appears to have had one at some point as there are three rivet holes for it, again if anyone knows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Not updated this for a while as we've been struggling to retrieve the lost air in the braking system. This has been mentioned earlier in this thread and the suggested fix has been tried but not worked. The air on the split Main/Aux gauge (top left of dash) builds exactly as it should however the Brakes gauge (centre bottom of dash) barely manages 20 lb/sq and will therefore not release the brakes. Air assist on the clutch, tyre inflator & handbrake is also not present. We have been slowly cleaning & lubricating various valves in an attempt to isolate the problem. Any theoretical help or pointers toward those knowledgable in such matters great fully received. A few images of the air system & relay valves being cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Crosbie Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I am a bit puzzled as to why a lack of air pressure will not allow the brakes to release unless the brake chambers have been changed to the spring type. Do you know that the gauge works and are you still getting a 'low air' warning on the buzzer and lamp? The 'as-built' arrangement means that with no air you have no brakes! A lack of air in tank 6 would, however prevent the handbrake from being easily released since it supplies the air assistance to the mechanism. Assuming that the tank itself is not leaking you could look at the pressure regulating valve (20) situated below and behind the tyre inflator unit, or the one near the clutch air unit behind the cab. I have just replaced this with a new unit available from EBS (http://www.europeanbrakingsystems.co.uk/) their part number S-183503/23. These are available in a range of pressure settings and you need the 75 psi one. Other than that, brush some soapy water round all the connections on the blue circuit with the engine running and see if you can find any major leaks. No valve left open on the rear palm coupling (16) or tyre inflator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hmm... you mention earlier that you fixed an air leak, I assume that it all went back together OK? Second, those air horns you removed, they were not plumbed into the air system somewhere or did they have their own pump? Other than that I have no ideas trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Nick, 2 simple checks, have you got air at palm coupling 21 and are the brake actuators 11 moving on axle 2?? If the answer to both is no then the most likely scenario is tank 6 has no pressure, suspect regulator 15. If you have no pressure in tank 6 it will also prevent the inter axle diff and front wheel drive actuators from working, it is vital to lock the inter axle diff if going of road as it will seize up if you spin it for long enough. Let us know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thanks for the replies gents, sorry I haven't responded sooner-been in London. Iain-your comments confused me at first until I realised the numbering of the air system in the printed manual differs to the coloured diagram I posted above from Scribd website. We checked the n/s pressure regulating valve (20 or 15 diagram dependent) the other week, cleaned & lubricated it all ok. Today we did the same to the o/s valve which seemed to allow the air to build to 60psi under heavy rpm but fell away back to 20psi on tickover. It then became clear the larger air leak was from the dual foot brake valve (no 8 on my diagram). The exact leak was from a rubber diaphragm on the inner chassis side of the valve. In the following photos it's coloured with red, faded paint. It took some effort and about an hour and a half to work out the correct sequence to undo all four air pipes. As I type my Dad has the valve apart for cleaning and has found the spring seized. Hopefully fit it back tomorrow and fingers crossed it solves the issue. I'm also collecting two part worn tyres in the afternoon for the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Trevor - air horns were plumbed in to the air system under the o/s/r cab floor, I simply removed the T piece and re joined with a straight section. The fixed air leak was from an old jubilee clip on the n/s/f axle brake chamber. Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Forgot to mention - once the air on the main gauge achieved 60psi the air assist on the handbrake noticeably returned and allowed the truck to free wheel, within 2 minutes on tickover no air assist apparent on the handbrake & truck stuck solid in first & reverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Crosbie Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) Nick, Glad to see you may be getting somewhere. I should have made it clear I was referring to your coloured diagram from the manual (you'll notice there are several mistakes in the drawing). I had a very similar problem about 2 years ago with my footbrake valve which no amount of dismantling and reassembly would fix. I eventually found someone, through a motor factor, who had a rebuilt one in stock which they sent me, with a guarantee, but it also leaked from the same place and after much head scratching I returned it. They tested it, and it worked OK until they connected one of the pipe adaptors that is fitted when it is installed, and hey presto- it failed! Needless to say they were slightly bemused and had never seen this before but they were able to replace it with yet another rebuilt unit which was fine and it has been OK since then. I can look out the name of company I got it from if you can't get yours fixed. The regulating valves are set to open at specified pressures, so yours could be air-tight but not opening at the right pressure. This might be worth looking at if the footbrake valve doesn't sort your problem. I'd have thought that sticking in gear due to lack of air can only be related to the clutch air servo (which has been disabled on my vehicle) so with no air you are presumably not able to operate the clutch, giving the impression of the gear lever being stuck. Either that or the selector mechanism needs lubricating and the air issue is just co-incidental. When I got my truck the air tank drain valves were all seized and after much difficulty I got them all off and sorted. I got a lot of water from the inner left hand tank (this is the one with the most inaccessible, remotely mounted, valve) and I assume a lot of moisture must have been working its way around the system for quite a while. I imagine you have yours sorted, but if not you should do this soon as water won't help any of the air components to work freely. Keep us posted. Edited August 4, 2015 by Iain Crosbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
militant-nick Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) I'll have the number of the place who supplied your foot brake valve please Iain - just had another fruitless day trying to make it work. The air is still escaping from the circular rubber o ring on the side of the valve. will send email shortly. thanks Edited August 4, 2015 by militant-nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Crosbie Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Have e-mailed info for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Crosbie Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Have you managed to make any headway with your brake/air problem yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.