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lowfat

Stalwart FFR

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Dry and or lot of water...The oil seal was kaput and when I tried to fill the central lube system it filled the hull with ep90.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice

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Slowly working through the oil seals to stop the central lube system flooding the hull.

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Well I now need to pull the front left hand bevel gearbox... Its better with the repaired input pinion but still awful.

 

So wheelstation off ..... Stalwart the gift that keeps giving...

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Well I now need to pull the front left hand bevel gearbox... Its better with the repaired input pinion but still awful.

 

So wheelstation off ..... Stalwart the gift that keeps giving...

 

as the army said they are a lot of maintenance...do you have your torsion bars turned so she runs them level. i am assuming you will rarely if ever run with a 5 ton load...it will reduce the wear on the tractor joints...has the bevel box got oil in it.

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It is a standard ride height.

 

I have done probably only a few miles road testing it in the time I've owned it.

 

Both front boxes are Dry at the moment .Spin the right front wheel and all is at peace with the world , the front left is truly shocking.

 

I will pull the wheelstation fix the boots ,replace the cork seal and change the bearings in the bevel box bearings.

 

well thats the mornings work planned.

 

john

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Oh and I found 2 more wheel nuts and a£1 coin in the detritus under the bevel boxes.

 

still nothing really exciting.

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Fixed the fuel gauge system today. big grin moment.

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how did you fix the fuel guage...what was wrong with it...usually the sender is up the spout...

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the sender was corroded inside. It was easy to take apart and clean. Some chump had messed with wiring on the gauge moving the sender cable straight onto the 24v input terminal. once that was put right it was top banana. 13 volts on the gauge output. 20 to 340 ohms on the sender.

 

Just sourced the metal to make my wheelstation removal stand.

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Built the wheelstation jack adapter. Pulled the wheelstation.

 

Tracta joint pretty poor due to being immersed in water. bevel gear box pulled and bearings replacement in progress.

 

also found the bearings in the wheelstation input shagged.

 

Its been emotional.

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Edited by lowfat

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the sender was corroded inside. It was easy to take apart and clean. Some chump had messed with wiring on the gauge moving the sender cable straight onto the 24v input terminal. once that was put right it was top banana. 13 volts on the gauge output. 20 to 340 ohms on the sender.

 

Just sourced the metal to make my wheelstation removal stand.

 

 

 

On my stolly I found the wires on the guage had been moved on purpose.

The engine oil level change over switch has a fault in that the rivets in its construction cause the switch not to work.

the switch is then by passed the best way the mechanics think possible.

A small amount of solder on the switches rivets fixes the problem.

I still have to remove the fuel sender..........and check it out.

Ron

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Ron.. The way it was wired turned the fuel tank in to a bomb.. If the sender hadn't been rusty the 24volts would have turned the resistor wire into fuse...... boom

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Built the wheelstation jack adapter. Pulled the wheelstation.

 

Tracta joint pretty poor due to being immersed in water. bevel gear box pulled and bearings replacement in progress.

 

also found the bearings in the wheelstation input shagged.

 

Its been emotional.

 

Did you find the bearings easy to replace/find..

 

assuming they are pretty standard sizes...

 

Paul

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The hardest part was unlocking the big main bearing securing lock ring. This was done with the box still in the truck.

I made a tool like a T from scrap steel and with a 4 foot scafold pole as a lever grunted and groaned till it popped.God knows how long it had been left full of water.

Once cleaned up it went back together sweet you will need a press.

 

Sammy at a+s has the bevel box bearings and bannisters has the wheelstation input bearings.

the bevel box bearings are also commercially available I could only find the wheelstation ones at bannisters.

 

The box is back in now. Need to sort out the leaking suspension while the wheelstation is off.

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IMG_0592.jpgWell the new bevel box tracta shaft has arrived and is fitted and the brake drums are all fitted. the hand brake is working real sweet now.

Just have to refit the new speedo cable fuel tank ,oil tank,hydraulic tank and wheel station. the leaking suspension is shelved for the moment.

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Edited by lowfat

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Been a while

 

Busy with work

 

Struggling to refit the wheelstation,

 

Any golden tips? even with my super jack adapter cant get it on.

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I have struggled refitting Two wheel stations now.

Both times I ended up splitting the drive between the tracts joints instead of fitting the whole lot in One go.

Fit the tracta joint on the hull first as it is easier to line it up that way.

The last one I did I use expoy glue on the surfaces between the drive fork and tracta knuckal to ensure it did not move during the lining up process.

The glue will break and wear off when you use the Stalwart.

I then fitted the wheel station, but you now have to align the muff coupling when 3/4s the way through fitting the wheel station...........I did it after getting the top suspension pin started.

You have to get the muff locking pin and access holes aligned and think about it all alignment wise before the start of fitting.( including timing to the other wheels)

You use longer than standard 3/8 UNF bolts to help pull the to halves together and add sealant as a back up to the small O ring just before the halves meet.

The draw back to doing it this way is the splines on the muff coupling/tracta fork drive shaft can get end float while siding together and the pin hole may never come into view even though it is correctly timed and lined up................ensure the muff is a easy fit over the splines.

It may not be the correct way above ,but so far it has been the only way that worked for me.

Edited by 101 Ron

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Another thing I have learnt the hard way is every single pin/part try fitting it where it should go first before the actual fitting of the wheel station..

Some thing as small as a flake of paint can make the fitting of a suspension pin extremely difficult.

I ran a adjustable reamer lightly though the holes to ensure the pins were free.

 

Remember the bronze plug / housing with the cork seal on it must have its slot correctly aligned to the steel button in the bevel box housing.............if the bronze plug /housing is tight you may have trouble feeling if it lines up correctly.

Edited by 101 Ron

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I found I used a combination of both a trolley jack wheel station support and a simple lifting bracket on the wheel nut studs.

I used the lifting bracket with a jib on a forklift, but there is no reason why you couldn't use it with a cheap engine lifting trolley crane.

I found with the forklift I could .......say support the wheel station with trolley jack alone and then place the Tyne of the forklift on the wheel station hub and have it idle in gear which places a steady pressure on the wheel station in towards the hull while I shook the wheel station and tried to line things up.

I was fitting the wheel stations by myself, outside in a gravel yard (tolley jack wheels didnt want to turn) and it took much trial and tribulation.

Get someone to help you.

You know my restoration thread have a look again.

Ron

Edited by 101 Ron

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Just Two more things I though of.

It may not be paint friendly but a super big pair of locking multi grips or locking pliers they now use on engine oil filters on modern cars is handly to rotate the wheel station on the housing over muff coupling to help align up the bronze housing on the the steel button inside the bevel box housing.

 

The design of that wheel station Tolley jack adaptor is important.

The drawings for it are over complicated and everyone made tends to be different.

Mine supports the wheel station reduction hub in the groove around the hub cap ??,so I can push on the tolley jack and the wheel station and hub will want to move around less.

The susport for the tracta joint end is slightly lower than it needs to be and I find it is great as I use small pieces of wood is packing to correct the height during fitting of the wheel station.

 

Other tools to think about is a huge rubber tyre fitters hammer and mechanics round alignment pry bars.

Edited by 101 Ron

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Thanks Ron great tips as usual.

 

I concure with everything you said.

 

I cant see how you can fit this in the field.....

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Alvis must have found a easy way fitting wheel stations at the factory..

One day someone may tell or show us.

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Alvis must have found a easy way fitting wheel stations at the factory..

One day someone may tell or show us.

 

I heard that they mounted the wheel station to a support rig and then fitted the vehicle to the wheel station. :cool2:

 

trevor

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Well the wheel station is on.

 

Found that the bevel gearbox opening that the wheelstation fitting slides into was damaged.

 

Used a steel plate to run the jack/fitting adapter on, greased the tracta joint so they stayed in place and it slid straight on.

 

well made up!

 

on with rest of the fun.

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