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Hi John

 

I've just lowered the water level in the rad to around 1/4" above the fins , started it up and ran it for around 15mins no water forced out , (bit happier now ) .This might sound stupid but is it normal for steam to escape from the rad cap when its stopped ? , not being conversant with the MW and this type of rad cap set up I was wondering if this was normal.

 

Dave

 

Although it's not a certainty, the fact that it happens once the engine has warmed up suggests that it's likely to be over full. It could be expansion of the cylinder head bolts when they're hot but I doubt it.

Deffo check that they're all torqued down properly as that's an easy hit.

when I first ran mine it did the same thing and I was suprised how much came out. I now keep my coolant level about 3.5 inches below the top of the filler.

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Thanks John, that would probably be a wise thing to do before I start pulling things apart :-D

 

Dave

 

 

If you want to do a pressure check on the systerm I can lend you a kit.

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Hi John

 

I've just lowered the water level in the rad to around 1/4" above the fins , started it up and ran it for around 15mins no water forced out , (bit happier now ) .This might sound stupid but is it normal for steam to escape from the rad cap when its stopped ? , not being conversant with the MW and this type of rad cap set up I was wondering if this was normal.

 

Dave

Mine doesn't steam at all. I was quite carefull to set it up as per the drivers manual. I assume your radiator filler has the castellated ring that compresses the spring underneath?

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Just a check on the ignition timing might be an idea.

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Hi John

 

Yes it has the castellated nut and spring .I set the nut to 9/16" from the top of the filler neck fitted a new spring and also sealed the top of the castellated nut as stated in the manual

 

Dave

 

Mine doesn't steam at all. I was quite carefull to set it up as per the drivers manual. I assume your radiator filler has the castellated ring that compresses the spring underneath?

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Checked the head bolts , all good :-( .Looks like the head is going to have to come off and see if the gasket is dodgy :banghead:fingers crossed it is , still getting wisps of steam out of the rad cap........................

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Hi Dave,

 

I have had this problem with my OX as long as I have owned it. Before I had the engine rebuilt, foam came out of the radiator cap. Since the rebuild coolant comes out. I have never managed to find the cause, despite an engine rebuild, replacement (pressure tested) head, radiator re-cored, filler neck spring reinstated and neck set up as per manual. I try to keep the coolant level just above the tubes and try to put up with it, but you can guarantee when coolant does spray out, it goes all over the windscreen! With vacuum wipers, this is more than a minor inconvenience.

 

Regards,

Mike.

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Hi Mike

 

I lowered the water level to just above the tubes and it no longer pushes water out, fitted a new spring and NOS rad cap and only sends out swirls of steam when I switch off the engine .

 

 

What's frustrating the engine was totally rebuilt ,the only thing that wasn't replaced with new was the crank . The only thing to do now is a pressure test and see if that shows anything ? or it might be one of those things , like yourself , I'll have to put up with . I did think maybe the NOS rad cap isn't seating properly , I could have tried eliminating that but the problem is it didn't come with one so can't try the original .

 

If I do manage to get to the root of the problem I'm going to fit a Temp gauge just for piece of mind . I did contemplate fitting elec wiper motors but stuck with the originals , something I might regret it at some point :D

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave,

 

I have had this problem with my OX as long as I have owned it. Before I had the engine rebuilt, foam came out of the radiator cap. Since the rebuild coolant comes out. I have never managed to find the cause, despite an engine rebuild, replacement (pressure tested) head, radiator re-cored, filler neck spring reinstated and neck set up as per manual. I try to keep the coolant level just above the tubes and try to put up with it, but you can guarantee when coolant does spray out, it goes all over the windscreen! With vacuum wipers, this is more than a minor inconvenience.

 

Regards,

Mike.

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I fitted a temperature gauge to mine a couple of months ago. It's supposed to have one and it's really good to know what's going on.

Interestingly, I finally got round to fitting a thermostat this week. On it's first test run since, the water temperature went up and down like a yo yo and water was pushed out of the radiator cap! Thermostat's back out again now. I figure that I'll use the grill cover to hold the temperature up while I find out what's causing it.

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I fitted a temperature gauge to mine a couple of months ago. It's supposed to have one and it's really good to know what's going on.

Interestingly, I finally got round to fitting a thermostat this week. On it's first test run since, the water temperature went up and down like a yo yo and water was pushed out of the radiator cap! Thermostat's back out again now. I figure that I'll use the grill cover to hold the temperature up while I find out what's causing it.

 

That is interesting, because the one thing I haven't tried is taking the thermostat out and running without. Might give it a go and see what difference it makes - incidentally, I did fit a new thermostat when the engine was rebuilt.

 

Mike.

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That's an idea worth a try saves taking it apart again .I did warm it up with the rad cap off and there was water flow , maybe its operating intermittently ? ....... probably clutching at straws though .

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That is interesting, because the one thing I haven't tried is taking the thermostat out and running without. Might give it a go and see what difference it makes - incidentally, I did fit a new thermostat when the engine was rebuilt.

 

Mike.

 

 

Not sure if it will help but I fitted a new thermostat once and it caused the engine to boil up initially then work ok after a while.Turned out there was a small 1 to 2mm hole to give some water flow when the thermostat was fully closed ..BUT..in the hole was fitted a Y shaped piece of copper on the the one end of which was a 2 to 3mm plastic ball which blocked off the hole when water was pumped round ???!!!!!...hence no flow at all!! Engine got hot real quick and boiled up but would settle down when I assume the thermostat finally opened. Removed said "thing " from the thermostat to small flow even when cold and everything worked fine from then on.

Hope this helps

Andy

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Not sure if it will help but I fitted a new thermostat once and it caused the engine to boil up initially then work ok after a while.Turned out there was a small 1 to 2mm hole to give some water flow when the thermostat was fully closed ..BUT..in the hole was fitted a Y shaped piece of copper on the the one end of which was a 2 to 3mm plastic ball which blocked off the hole when water was pumped round ???!!!!!...hence no flow at all!! Engine got hot real quick and boiled up but would settle down when I assume the thermostat finally opened. Removed said "thing " from the thermostat to small flow even when cold and everything worked fine from then on.

Hope this helps

Andy

 

Had you put thermostat in wrong way up?

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Not sure if it will help but I fitted a new thermostat once and it caused the engine to boil up initially then work ok after a while.Turned out there was a small 1 to 2mm hole to give some water flow when the thermostat was fully closed ..BUT..in the hole was fitted a Y shaped piece of copper on the the one end of which was a 2 to 3mm plastic ball which blocked off the hole when water was pumped round ???!!!!!...hence no flow at all!! Engine got hot real quick and boiled up but would settle down when I assume the thermostat finally opened. Removed said "thing " from the thermostat to small flow even when cold and everything worked fine from then on.

Hope this helps

Andy

 

Andy,

The little ball valve is there to release air when filling the system, once full the valve will float up and lock off flow. Once engine is warm, thermostat opens.

If the thermostat was fitted upside down as Tony says, then the ball valve would stay open, but thermostat would not open very quickly as it sense temperature of coolant from the lower side.

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Andy,

The little ball valve is there to release air when filling the system, once full the valve will float up and lock off flow. Once engine is warm, thermostat opens.

If the thermostat was fitted upside down as Tony says, then the ball valve would stay open, but thermostat would not open very quickly as it sense temperature of coolant from the lower side.

 

I am being a bit thick here .....should thermostatic bit be pointing up or down please? :embarrassed:

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Well took the MW for a 30 mile runout yesterday in the red hot sunshine ....................... no water/steam came out of the rad filler neck so happy about that , reduced the water level as some suggested and it seems to have done the trick :-)

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Posted (edited)
Thats great

 

Had a big smile on my face John :-D ...............

 

Have an other mystery to get to the bottom of. I noticed on the Carb a 3/16" threaded hole and an unthreaded hole on the opposite side on the choke block . I cant seem to find out what is supposed to fit into it .When I had been on the runout and stopped the engine I noticed wisps of smoke coming from the threaded hole :nut: .

 

The photo's are of my spare carb , any thoughts on the mystery holes , maybe some sort of venting system ?

 

Dave

IMG_1853.jpg

IMG_1854.jpg

Edited by Davey089

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Additional info on the mystery holes , place your finger over the threaded hole you can actually feel it sucking. Going to block the hole off with a bolt and see what happens , cant find any info on the holes and it doesn't show anything in the parts book:undecided: .

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