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SWB Land Rover/Rover 8 24 volt 40 amp FFR not charging


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For some reason my FFR has stopped charging, does anyone know how to check the generator, regulator and rectifier and anything else I may of missed and what results I should be getting? checked and cleaned simple regular stuff like earth leads etc and the batteries are good but got no idea how the check the rest of the system

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i would have thought with 2 serviceable batts volts should have been nearer 25 volts might be worth taking batts out and say going to a well known motor factors get em to do a load test if ok alternator and or voltage regulator? if u can get her running and check output at alternator

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We did test the generator, but weren't really sure what to check though, with it connected up it was only showing 1-3 volts and with it disconnected I think it was something silly like going up to an 100 volts at times! but like I say not sure what results to look for at the moment

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http://d1ed2vcldue1cv.cloudfront.net/landy/mil/lfig132.gif

 

Small feed wire (probably brown) genny to starter solenoid , above fast tick-over , I think I would be looking for at least 28 volt (terminal to earth) (anything less and you are not going to push anything into two sound 12 volt batteries) , over 29.5 volt and it would be overcharge. Check all tight & clean.

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Do you get a decent output (28v or so) at the terminal for radio batteries? If that is good then trace the feed back to its thick blue lead on the rectifier. Then unplug the output & swap it with the thick blue lead that goes to the vehicle batteries via the ammeter.

 

There are 9 diode elements to the selenium pack 3 are common to the negative (this is not earth). Then there are 3 for the vehicle positive & 3 for radio positive, simply swapping the positives brings an alternative 3 diodes into operation.

 

There are 6 thick blue leads.

3 are AC input from alternator

one is negative to the regulator

one is positive for vehicle

one is positive for radio

 

When you measure alternator output, put negative prod on blue negative not earth (as takes you through the current regulator winding although this would be of littlel consequence if minimal current was being drawn)

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Haven't got any leads at all or fittings for batteries in the back unfortunately, something I still need to track down someday, would this cause any problems by not having it?

 

No provided the radio positive supply was completely insulated off. It was just that I was thinking you had three "unused" diode elements that could be brought into play if there was a fault in the three being used for the vehicle positive.

 

The 40A system differs from the 90A in that there are separate independent outputs for vehicle & radio batteries. Unlike 90A where there is one output that gets connected via a relay to the radio & vehicle batteries that are then linked in parallel with each other.

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  • 8 months later...

Took me way too long to get round to sorting this problem, but with all the information given by you guys here and a mate who knows electrics better then what I do we finally found the problem to be the small shielded cable that runs from the generator to the regulator/control box had a break in one end, which my mate stripped and rebuilt for me last night. the rest of the cable looks to of had quite a life so thought I try my luck and see if theres any NOS ones out there (part number 519909, cable, alternator, CB/6006/21C) checked Craddocks, Blanchards and Dunsfold and even ebay but had no joy, does anyone know of anywhere that could make a new shielded cable like the old one?

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