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HWade

GMC CCKW Dump Truck

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Hi although the hole in the body is the full width about a quarter of it each side does have bolted in boards, and of course when the body is not being used for dumping the divider section folds down into the floor allowing the full size of the body to be used. Glad you are enjoying the restoration more to follow of course, I think the outstanding parts I am waiting for should arrive tomorrow.

 

Thanks Howard

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Hello Richard

 

Ive just looked at the thread, makes perfect sense I suppose, thanks for that. Howard

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Well more done on the dump truck, i fitted both floor panels today, also wired in the new headlight dip switch, or as the book calls it (dimmer switch), I also fitted some of the new tyres on the painted rims, and very nice they look to.Ive also managed to sort out the wiring to the rear and got the rear lights wired in and tested, I also blasted all the wheel nuts and masked up the threads and painted those.we also managed to source the correct horn this has also been painted and fitted and wired up.I have also painted the mirror arm brackets, managed to source the early ones that fit to the door hinge.Still got a problem with the stainless exhaust in that it fowls up and does not allow the silencer to fit snugly into the bracket, making it fowl up with the spare wheel holder, I am waiting for a steel down pipe to turn up and use this.Also got most of the dials fitted in and connected up for testing. here are a few more pics.Howard

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Hi Howard,

Do you happen to have any pics of the small sealing panel/s that attach/s to the cab floor in way of the steering column and brake/clutch pedals? BTW great thread and great restoration work.

Cheers

John W.

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Hello John

 

Yes i do have some of the panels are take some pics when painted, the onw around the tipper and lower buck levers is just a bit of thick felt with a strip of metal each side holding it in place.The one that goes around the starter pedal was missing so are make this one.Cheers Howard

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Well the dump truck is resting on her new rubber. With all the hydrovac connected up and the fuel tank and fuel lines connected, I gave her a test run, well was going to, only to find it would not run very well without having the choke on,Mmm, sucking air some where, Firstly we disconnected all vac pipes to the the manifold, and covered the holes, and the engine then ran fine, after checking a bit, and isolating various things, the fault stems back to the Hydrovac, not sure what is causing it,unless its a sticky valve, so going to have to take this off and investigate further, what a pain.Will keep you all informed as to how I get on.Howard

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I went to put the exhaust together today and more problems, or am i missing something, I have been supplied with the gasket and the sealing ring, but when you fit together and try and clamp it up with the three bolts the sealing ring will not compress enough for the gasket to seal, has anybody else had this problem, should it be a copper ring and not this steel ring, the last jimmy exhaust i did I am sure there was a copper compression ring, heres a pic of ring and gasket. Howard

gmctipper 003.JPG

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Hello Andy

 

Thanks for that, the same thought went through my mind, but it just does not look right, and it also means the down pipe is then put out of line by about 5-10mm,looking in the manual it says there should be what they call a flange seal and then the gasket, the flange seal is nothing like the seal thats in the picture. Recon we will contact Mr Wildenburg see what stock he has. Howard

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I installed a s/s exhaust from another Mr. W last year - worked fine and had the same 'brillo pad' ring, don't remember any flange gasket.

 

I seem to recall there was a ring fastened to the down pipe and you put the flange on from the other end of the down pipe. The seal should be nipped between manifold and this ring. Am I right in thinking there is no flare on the new down pipe, and that the pipe locates a short way into the manifold as the flange pushes against the sealing ring and therefore squeezes the seal into the taper in the manifold face?

 

I wonder if the problem is problem is the ring on the pipe which pushes the pipe into the manifold being too far down he pipe? You may need to cut a small amount off the pipe end to allow the gasket to squeeze up tight.

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Hello NOS, thanks for the info, it was good to catch up earlier, wait to here from you on friday. Thanks Howard.

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Here's how the flange fits up on my s/s/ down pipe. No flange gasket, the flange simply squeezes the doughnut seal into place. Done quite a few miles now and no problems. ISTR I had to use longer bolts. Maybe this is not the correct way but it works fine. There did not appear to be any other way to get it together!

 

IMG_0344.jpg

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Hi NOS thanks for to the trouble of taking a picture of that, Mmm thats the seal I had come with the stainless system that we sent back, it has worked for you it may be how I will have to do it but are wait to see if I can track down the other seal first.

 

Thanks

 

Howard

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Not a great more done at the moment have made new wood spacers for under the running boards,other than that waiting on some parts to progress with the rebuild.Will add more to the tread as and when things move on.Howard

bedfordrl 020.JPG

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For what it is worth, I also vaguely recall having to encourage that gasket into the sealing recess in the manifold with a hammer and punch before I could get the flange bolts through far enough to start the nuts (and I used longer bolts) as it compresses a fair bit.

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Well its been a while since adding to the blog, Ive been waiting for parts, but now the build is back on, the exhaust system is now back together and all connected up and no blows anywhere, I used a copper sealing ring in the end, and a mild steel exhaust syatem from stock apart from the tail pipe that was ordered in. I fired up the truck and tested all the tipping gear to make sure that it was all working before attempting to refit the dump body, infact this went back on alot easier than I expected bearing in mind I did it single handed.What would I do with out a fork lift!. All of the Radiator is back on and plumb in and its antifreezed up ready for the winter.Once the body was fitted I also fitted the head board and the cab guard,I also have the other rear wheels to fit. heres a few pics still a bit to do but its coming together now. Howard.

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Very impressive - the cab restoration interests me, as my hard cab needs a decent workout to make it look better

 

Door seals where did you get yours from?

the cab wind screen hasn't been opened for some time

 

any tips?

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Hi Gas 44

 

Its a blend that I get mixed, a top secret mix of course, but can be supplied, its a eggshell finish so it wipes down without leaving marks on the paint,unlike matt finish paints. Its made by Dacrylate paints. 5 litres £50.

Regards Howard

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Twotrumbones, with regards to the cab, I was lucky in that this one did not need to much panel work repairs, a common place for these to rot out is on the back of the cab along the seam, also the rear window and floor of the cab, i suppose it depends where its been stored. Any way regards repairing if you are replacing an area of tin work take your time I always cut a card pattern first, i also blast my parts i am repairing first a well. you can see extactly what you have and its clean metal to weld to.If you have not opened window yet, give all parts a good spray with some WD40 or alike, dont force the window, these are getting very hard to find now, ive just finished putting one back together, and had to make up part of the centre pillar as could not get a inside section anywhere.Just take your time,also regards the screws in the cab I recon i had to heat nearly every one in the cab i have just done and i managed to get 95% out, so i could reuse them. Well all the best.

 

Regards Howard

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Bit more progress on the dump truck, ive fitted the remaining rear wheels, also fitted one of the front wings along with bottom panel, also cut and fitted the canvas beeding between wing and body and running board,also made up one set of wires from the connector block that fits on the bottom panel that the wires go through to the head light and blackout lights.just got to source some discreet front indicators to fit under the front wings.More to follow. Howard

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Done a bit more to the dump truck, the drivers side front wing is now on, also blasted primed and painted the reflectors for the sides and ends of the dump body. Also got the head bases fitted.Thats it for now. Howard.

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