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rampant rivet

Bedford MWD restoration

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After a first attempt using parts washer solvent I decided to try a hot air gun to remove the preservative gloop , gently melting the sticky stuff inside and out speeded up the process some.

 

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Pistons are in perfect condition after being in storage for so many years, testament to the quality of the packing methods used. 

Edited by rampant rivet
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Had a great day at Malvern, picked up all new bearings, camshft and bits n bobs from Chris then over to see Dave just up the road to pick up a lovely  NOS. standard crankshaft, 

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:thanx: all for helping me with this project.

 

 

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Bearings can be a bit like buses wait long enough and loads turn up 😀

3 x 60 thou

2 x 40 thou

1 x 10 thou

1 x std 

20171207_165523.thumb.jpg.0b7e5b722b399082d697bbe96f9d2814.jpg

May keep some and let the rest go.

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Nice parts, You will soon be ready rebuild....

I have just started putting the bottom end on mine together.  I used graphogen on the mains and big ends so that they will be will lubricatedwhen she starts up for the first time (hopefully early next year)

The vandervell bearings, are these for the big ends or main ? Also could you post the bearing set number, I know the glacier ones but not the vandervell ones

Thanks

Richard

 

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Engine rebored, block to have a light skim prior to starting the rebuild.

20180110_153116.thumb.jpg.f5fdbceccb62b157a8ae4bd7e08e42c1.jpg

 

 

Edited by rampant rivet

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Think it goes oil pressure gauge, oil warning lamp, oil filter in, oil filter out and  drain tap for coolant at the end nearest bell housing.

 

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Just gets blocked with all the crud collecting to the rear of the coolant channels from around the cylinders. 

Edited by rampant rivet

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Hi Andy

Brian at Forest Engine Services Ltd organised the rebore and is currently giving the block a skim as soon as that's done I'll get it back for painting then the rebuild can resume.

 

J.

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4 hours ago, rampant rivet said:

Hi Andy

Brian at Forest Engine Services Ltd organised the rebore and is currently giving the block a skim as soon as that's done I'll get it back for painting then the rebuild can resume.

 

J.

Thanks Jez...did you not have someone up here in the Midlands?

 

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3 hours ago, Jelleyboy said:

have you got a 2nd bedford Jeremy?....

Hi Luke

One MW is enough for me 😎

The engine currently in the MW is an OY block and was always due to be replaced, the engine I am now building is an early MW block from around 1940, I wanted a near as new engine fitted for peace of mind as I aim to put some miles on the truck in the coming years. 

The OY Block Will be rebuilt as a spare as it's on 20 thou mains and pistons there is still life left in it, I've already found a set of +  30 pistons and big end bearings so all I'll need is a set of crank bearings and it's sorted.

Cheers J.

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55 minutes ago, andy1960 said:

Thanks Jez...did you not have someone up here in the Midlands?

 

Nearest to you was Phoenix engineering in Hereford but they were crazy expensive so Brian sorted it for me

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Checked this evening that the new exhaust flap thingy works correctly before I weld the flap to the shaft thanks for the help with the parts Chris.

 

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Where you able to reuse any of the old one and how did you get it out ...... or was it b@@ered up getting it out?

 

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Hi Andy

 I used a hacksaw blade to cut the shaft between the flap and casting, tried to tap it out after grinding the shaft where it was welded to the flap but no good only managed to snap the casting on the counter weight O.o.

 After cutting through the shaft either side of the flap it was easy to tap out the bushes and replace, then fettle them untill the shaft rotated easily bearing in mind it'll tighten up as it gets hot.

The only thing I think may be reusable is the flap though I hav'nt tried to drive the old shaft out yet as I opted to replace it all with new parts from Chris. 

20180120_161529.thumb.jpg.c949b72a8526af07e8cc451e17a8b093.jpg

Pic shows the amount of wear on the shaft and remains of the bushes, plus the two part counter weight xD

Edited by rampant rivet

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Looking Good....

On mine, the " exhaust flap thingy"[exhaust thermostat] has been removed, I was led to believe that this was later engine mod as many got stuck in one position, and was not reliable.. I assume the new bits came from Chris Morter

Not sure if to re-instate mine or not

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Yes I'm led to believe that they were welded in the "running position " as left stuck in the cold or " starting position " would mean the induction manifold running hot which wouldn't be good for getting the correct air/fuel mixture into the engine so not having one fitted at all sounds a bit dodgy to me. I'm sure ive read something about the dangers of the  thermostat sticking in one of the maintenance manuals 

I'v set mine up using a hot air gun to get the correct operaton and will do one final check tomorrow before I fire up the welder.

I'm also going to fit parts 1035724 spring, accelerator,  return and 1039295 bracket which was missing.

Forgot to mention that  yes got all the necessary parts from Chris Morter.

Edited by rampant rivet

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2 hours ago, 64EK26 said:

Looking Good....

On mine, the " exhaust flap thingy"[exhaust thermostat] has been removed, I was led to believe that this was later engine mod as many got stuck in one position, and was not reliable.. I assume the new bits came from Chris Morter

Not sure if to re-instate mine or not

If the flap is removed and engine is run without it, the hot gases can still heat up the inlet manifold, if you look at the flap when in hot running position it shuts off the area of the hot spot. When cold the hot gases are circulated over the flap on to the hot spot.

 

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Will the air / petrol mixture be weak if intake remains heated by exhaust gasses ? I've looked through my manuals but hav'n found the specific info. I remember the carb on my Chevrolet actually freezing on start up, white frost would for on the carb body and the engine would stutter to a stop you had to then give it a few minutes and it would strt and run ok.

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18 minutes ago, rampant rivet said:

Will the air / petrol mixture be weak if intake remains heated by exhaust gasses ? I've looked through my manuals but hav'n found the specific info. I remember the carb on my Chevrolet actually freezing on start up, white frost would for on the carb body and the engine would stutter to a stop you had to then give it a few minutes and it would strt and run ok.

If the intake manifold gets too hot you will suffer fuel evaporation.

The frost on the outside of the carb is something that the Austin 6 cylinder engines suffer from when cold, they do not have a heat flap. The occurrence is not unlike when you remove a tyre valve and the rush of air produces a frost on the valve.

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Flap is welded seems ok will be able to put it all together now with new hotspot gasket.

Another small thing to do is fit this spring and bckt numbers 50 and 51 in this diag.

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I have the spring but need the bckt part number 1039295

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hopefully you can see the spring hanging down and this is the correct position,  will fabricate the bckt if someone can give me the dimensions. 

Edited by rampant rivet
Typo

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