My M29C Weasel

[LightningCato]

This is my M29C Weasel which we named Eudard for some unknown reason, lol! I bought the Weasel up in Idaho and got it shipped down to where I live a few months ago. I don't know much of the history behind it but I'm looking that up...I do know that it was fitted to carry a medical litter though. It runs and drives but needs work. It has a lot of un-original parts but right now my main concern is making it safer. (It was several potential fire hazards.) I can't explain in detail since I'm still learning mechanics...I'll have to type that such stuff when my friends dad is over here. He's helping me fix up the Weasel.

 

I'm, hoping to get rubber treads some day also so I can take it out on the roads for parades. Anyone know any good contacts for parts?

 

Here are a few pics from the day it arrived:

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a short video of it also:

 

Any questions or picture request, please let me know.

[Niels v]

Nice TR3 a :cheesy:

[Tony B]

The down side is, you now have no excuse for not getting anywhere because of the weather. :cool2:

[Enigma]

Nice Weasel.

Its a vehicle I'd like to have, who knows in the future.

 

I think rubber tracks are being sold in the Netherlands but shipping to the US would probably cost a lot.

[Degsy]

Have a look at the Weasel forum, lots of info on there.

[GoranWC51]

I would personally stay away from the rubber tracks, they just don't look the part. I think a better way, albeit also expensive, is to purchase a set of Liberty Tracks:

 

Website:

 

http://www.libertyar.com/Content/Home.aspx

 

A good website with information etc:

 

http://www.m29cweasel.com/

 

 

Goran N

[Lauren Child]

Rubber tracks would probably make for a better ride on-road, and less likely to tear up the grass lawn if that's where you're driving around.

 

I read somewhere about the friction from the rubber tracks impacting on the speed though, so it may be worth doing some research. I'd have a natter with some other Weasel owners before spending the pennies either way.

[Lauren Child]

right now my main concern is making it safer. (It was several potential fire hazards.) I can't explain in detail since I'm still learning mechanics...

 

Glad to hear you say that - safety first at all times as these can be dangerous machines to work on (especially when you go up to the big stuff).

 

If you are concerned about fire then I'm guessing there are fuel issues. Remember that petrol (gasoline) vapour sinks downwards as it's heavier than air. In an amphibious vehicle or tank hull it can fill up - make sure you have plenty of ventillation and the right sort of fire extinguisher on hand just in case (water and petrol is a bad mix in a fire, so get one that works on burning fuel). Fuel vapour can also be very poisonous if you breath it in climbing down into a sealed hull.

 

If it's electrical issues that are of concern for fire, then keep in mind that if you are on old style 6 volt electrics you need the cable to be about twice as thick as the normal ones used on 12 volt cars to do the same thing (and that's before you take into account that it's a bigger and beefier beastie than your everyday car). Welder cable works well for the battery/starter connections, but look at the amp ratings and ask for help if you're not sure.

 

If you are looking at learning mechanics then it can be worth picking up wartime books on it. They were written for people who'd never had experience of anything mechanical and had been drafted, and some of the terminology can be different for the military. I picked up a modern book when I was learning, but it had a lot to do with modern cars that just didn't really apply.

 

I picked up the "Manual of Driving and Maintenance for Mechanical Vehicles (Wheeled) 1937" and the "Manual of Driving and Maintenance for Mechanical Vehicles (Tracked) 1939".

 

They're both British ones. Some of the terms will be different again :banghead: and they're a bit of a dry read :noyay: , but they do cover a lot. The Tracked one assumes you've read the Wheeled one already.... I've not come across many mechanical books that cover the tracked vehicles.

 

There's a later version as well but I can't remember what it was called (remember a lot changed during the war so these are a bit of a snapshot, but it's a good start)

Edited September 21, 2012 by Lauren Child

[Degsy]

Glad to hear you say that - safety first at all times as these can be dangerous machines to work on (especially when you go up to the big stuff).

 

If you are concerned about fire then I'm guessing there are fuel issues. Remember that petrol (gasoline) vapour sinks downwards as it's heavier than air. In an amphibious vehicle or tank hull it can fill up - make sure you have plenty of ventillation and the right sort of fire extinguisher on hand just in case (water and petrol is a bad mix in a fire, so get one that works on burning fuel). Fuel vapour can also be very poisonous if you breath it in climbing down into a sealed hull.

 

If it's electrical issues that are of concern for fire, then keep in mind that if you are on old style 6 volt electrics you need the cable to be about twice as thick as the normal ones used on 12 volt cars to do the same thing (and that's before you take into account that it's a bigger and beefier beastie than your everyday car). Welder cable works well for the battery/starter connections, but look at the amp ratings and ask for help if you're not sure.

 

If you are looking at learning mechanics then it can be worth picking up wartime books on it. They were written for people who'd never had experience of anything mechanical and had been drafted, and some of the terminology can be different for the military. I picked up a modern book when I was learning, but it had a lot to do with modern cars that just didn't really apply.

 

I picked up the "Manual of Driving and Maintenance for Mechanical Vehicles (Wheeled) 1937" and the "Manual of Driving and Maintenance for Mechanical Vehicles (Tracked) 1939".

 

They're both British ones. Some of the terms will be different again :banghead: and they're a bit of a dry read :noyay: , but they do cover a lot. The Tracked one assumes you've read the Wheeled one already.... I've not come across many mechanical books that cover the tracked vehicles.

 

There's a later version as well but I can't remember what it was called (remember a lot changed during the war so these are a bit of a snapshot, but it's a good start)

 

Weasel's were all fitted with 12v equipment from the factory so 6v does not apply. The only book you need is a copy of the original manual TM9-772 available from Portrayal Press New Jersey but be quick , they are closing down.

[Tony B]

And invest in a good quality AFFF extingusher! Cheaper than total rebuild. This is one of those points were you need to seriously consider modern materilas for fuel lines and wiring rather than totally original fittings.

[Lauren Child]

Weasel's were all fitted with 12v equipment from the factory so 6v does not apply. The only book you need is a copy of the original manual TM9-772 available from Portrayal Press New Jersey but be quick , they are closing down.

 

Nice one - 12V makes it easier

[private mw]

very nice .

[LightningCato]

Okay, let's see if I can reply to all the questions and such here, lol!

 

Thanks for the info about the Liberty Tracks...question though, will they tear up the roads at all? I need tracks that can go on roads so I can take the Weasel through parades.

 

And haha yes! I've already experienced the tracks on it now tearing up the yard and marking the road up (any everything in it's path!) Something that would be a little less destructive would be great!

 

And yes the main safety issue is about the fuel, or the fuel line really. I don't know the correct terminology so I'll try to explain it the best I can. The fuel is in a straight circuit right now, there is no back up line for it so if something...floods? or backs up? it has no where else to go and can be a big fire hazard then.

 

The electrical systems look pretty good, I've already had to replace the negative ground cable but that was it so far, the rest looks okay but of course...doing a good look through on the entire system.

 

I already have several manuals on the Weasel actually, the previous owner gave me one and some other smaller manual when I got the Weasel from him.

 

And yes! I plan to buy a fire extinguisher for both the Weasel and Jeep soon! You actually just reminded me about that...thanks!

 

As for modern materials...personally I go for making my vehicles parade ready. I don't care much about what's on the inside as long as it's safe and does what it needs to. I want to drive the vehicles I have around and show them off rather than just making everything the way it should be and just being able to look at the vehicle like it's in a museum.

 

Thanks for all the info and helpful links! The info on the tracks was a big help! I'll be getting some more pictures soon! If anyone knows a source for me to find the history of my Weasel that would be great! I have all the ID panels still on the Weasel.

[Degsy]

It's very unlikely that you will find any history on your weasel but the M29C Weasel forum is your best bet for any info that may be available.

[Adrian Barrell]

Any mv restored to original spec is perfectly safe. The idea that you have to replace fuel lines and wiring with modern materials is rubbish. In some cases, modern is worse. A good example would be wiring in a tank engine bay. Modern pvc covered wire will not stand up to the heat very well and you'll end up with shorts. (in the wiring, not you!)

 

It is much more important to do the job correctly with proper fittings and ensuring cables and pipes are properly supported and fixed, be they original style or modern.

 

Certainly, original, i.e. 60 year old wiring can be a problem but age affects everything, isn't that right Degsy?

 

Edit. Gordons post reminds me that very modern fuel, especially if it has ethanol, seems to eat most traditional materials including brass but that is a fault of the fuel, not the vehicle!

Edited September 27, 2012 by Adrian Barrell

[Degsy]

Certainly, original, i.e. 60 year old wiring can be a problem but age affects everything, isn't that right Degsy?

 

 

Ohhh.......... you noticed:nut:

[Gordon_M]

Weasels ? I remember them.

 

In no particular order;

 

The only 6 volt item I remember on a Weasel was the blackout headlight, through a dropper resistor

 

Wiring - all mine lasted well

 

Fuel - I noticed that modern fuel does for the late rubber 'bullet-resistant' fuel tanks. If you have a steel tank you'll be OK

 

Tracks - Liberty tracks should be fine, but keep your old tracks as people are making new bands too New tracks are expensive but it is difficult to over state the amount of work in rebuilding old tracks.

[Tony B]

Must say, the older engines like the Weasel's that were designed to run on about 78 octane, don't seem to have problem with modern fuels. Maybe my two Darling Dodges are exceptional but they will even run on French pertrol! (Gas).:-D

[Degsy]

Must say, the older engines like the Weasel's that were designed to run on about 78 octane, don't seem to have problem with modern fuels. Maybe my two Darling Dodges are exceptional but they will even run on French pertrol! (Gas).:-D

 

 

It's not a question of what they'll run on that Gordon was commenting on but the damage that ethanol, which is being added to fuel, does to the rubber fuel tanks which were fitted to some weasel's and also melts seals in the fuel systems.

The FHBVC has been warning about this for some time, WAKE UP AT THE BACK.

[David Robertson]

Weasels ? I remember them.

 

In no particular order;

 

The only 6 volt item I remember on a Weasel was the blackout headlight, through a dropper resistor

 

Wiring - all mine lasted well

 

Fuel - I noticed that modern fuel does for the late rubber 'bullet-resistant' fuel tanks. If you have a steel tank you'll be OK

 

Tracks - Liberty tracks should be fine, but keep your old tracks as people are making new bands too New tracks are expensive but it is difficult to over state the amount of work in rebuilding old tracks.

Hi Gordon,

Do you have any details on the new track bands ?

Regards David.

[Gordon_M]

I remember seeing some images on M29C.org. I'm sure they were Dutch or Belgian.

 

The reason I mention old tracks is that when I had my four, in the 1980s and 90s, I ran across big piles of broken tracks in the UK and in Norway that could have been bought for very little cash.

 

I remember thinking at the time there was a business opportunity there in just buying and dry storing broken track, waiting for new bands to become available.

 

At the minute I think Liberty tracks are the thing, but don't discard the originals as I say.

[Tony B]

It's not a question of what they'll run on that Gordon was commenting on but the damage that ethanol, which is being added to fuel, does to the rubber fuel tanks which were fitted to some weasel's and also melts seals in the fuel systems.

The FHBVC has been warning about this for some time, WAKE UP AT THE BACK.

 

I'll be down getting a hearing trumpet tommorow, what's the NATO stock number? :-\ What about a modern plastic replacement? Surley that wouldn't be effected by Ethanol. Maybe that's the reason you now have to carry a breathaliser in the vehicle when going through France! :beer:

[Degsy]

I remember seeing some images on M29C.org. I'm sure they were Dutch or Belgian.

 

The reason I mention old tracks is that when I had my four, in the 1980s and 90s, I ran across big piles of broken tracks in the UK and in Norway that could have been bought for very little cash.

 

I remember thinking at the time there was a business opportunity there in just buying and dry storing broken track, waiting for new bands to become available.

 

At the minute I think Liberty tracks are the thing, but don't discard the originals as I say.

 

Gordon,the rubber tracks are Dutch, the Liberty tracks are American and as you rightly say there is plenty about them on the M29C forum but they are very expensive.

[Gordon_M]

Certainly Degsy, but not only are full-rubber tracks sourced in Holland, but there have been some original-type belts made there too.

 

I'm sure the Liberty tracks are very expensive, but;

 

Weasel - tracks = ornament

 

That was partly the reason that I replaced my Weasel with a Tucker, which has all-steel tracks I can weld up when they get worn.

 

Gordon

[Degsy]

Rubber tracks were fitted to my Weasel when I bought it but I have to admit that I would like to have the Liberty tracks if only I could afford them:wow: