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MiketheBike

Ferret Fuel pump leak

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Hi,

 

I am a newbie to this forum, and indeed to MV ownership.

 

I have just bought a ferret mk1/2, that has a fuel pump leak, that is apparently leaking fuel into the oil.

I have not yet got any maintenance/service manuals (I'm looking into that at the moment), but does anyone know how easy/hard it is to service/replace the fuel pump?

 

I spoke with a guy at Beltring a couple of years ago, and he had converted his Ferret to an electric fuel pump...which sounds like the way to go.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks,

 

Mick

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Mick,

The fuel pump is in a difficult spot, easiest way to remove it is by taking out the fuel tank first. You shouldn't have much trouble finding a new one or a repair kit. There is nothing wrong with the mechanical pump, I would stick with it if I were you.

 

Chris

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The main diaphragm can be replaced by one from a Series Land Rover, the diameter & holes are in exactly the right place!. You need to drill off the riveted bit in the middle though of the Rover one. The other diapragm is a compensatory diaphragm & if it goes won't leak into sump.

 

As it was designed for wading, if there was leakage it had to drain there rather to the ground, althogh I have heard of people drilling a drain hole to the air.

 

I agree with Chris I seen no point in pratting around with electric pumps, just run the thing as nature intended. Although the only exception to that principle would be to fit electronic ignition. (Better spark, no points to adjust, no synchronisation to set up/worry about, no condenser problems, giving better performance & really clean plugs)

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Hi Guys.

 

The pump is not that bad to replace with pretty much everything in situ as I have had to do it twice over the last three months :(

 

Simply put, you remove the oil cooler and the engine bay cross member (if fitted) and the fuel line to the carb.

 

I cut some wrenches down for the job, but you can get at one of the mounting screws and one of the hose fittings thru the gap you have now made in the bay.

 

The other fitting and mounting screw you can get at by removing the left engine mount (the one down from the filter and selector valve), this is not a hard job and only takes a few minutes if you go in thru the emergency hatch and the Hull plate under the fuel tank.

 

 

You then only need to reverse the procedure, I did a static pressure check on the 2nd pump I installed as the first leaked also and I had to take everything down again (so much for NOS parts !!!)

 

Only took a couple of hours, was a good time to drain the tank though and generally clean up the fuel system.

 

The first pump I had was so bad that after a short run and you let it sit, the engine bay was awash in oil and gas and it developed a hug mark of shame on the floor.

 

Remember the ferret uses a scavenger oil system, so before you drain the contaminated oil you may need to turn if over a few times to get everythin out.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Mark Witham

 

PS Dave Thomas over here identified an awesome electronic pump as a replacement for the mechanical one and I now have one plumbed in to bypass the mechanical one if I get a problem.

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Clive/Mark,

 

thanks very much for you insight and tips. I think I will stick with the mechanical pump, like you said.

I am guessing I will be posting a few times on here over the next few weeks/months. I just cannot wait to get my teeth into it now.

 

Mick

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saracenstump,

thanks for the info...I have seen him advertise on milweb but he does not have a website...I'll give him a call.

 

Mick

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I got the ferret yesterday, and the new (NOS) fuel pump arrived from Marcus Glen while they were unloading it.

I used Chris's suggestion of pulling the fuel tank forward, and it worked a treat...it took about 2 hours (in between playing with stuff :-) )...thanks Chris.

 

I did not realise wind was quite so bracing at 40mph, and despite my initial thoughts, pre-select appears to be a better way to change gear!!!

 

Now I just have to work out why the transfer box refuses to change with the engine running, even when idling at 500rpm?

 

Mick

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Mick,

They are a real pain to get from forward to reverse, it's the same in all vehicles with that type of gearbox. The worst I've seen by far are the CVRT gearboxes, you can't change from forward to reverse without either making an awful crunching noise or turning off the engine, changing over and then restarting.

 

There are lots of suggestions on how to make it easier, some people suggest selecting a gear and then moving the fwd/rev lever quickly while pressing the gear change pedal. I prefer to do it with the vehicle in neutral using a very quick and firm movement of the lever. It will take some practice but you'll get the hang of it.

 

When driving above 40mph I recommend some glasses, goggles and a decent headset. Mine will cruise happily at 60 on the motorway 8-)

 

Chris

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Thanks Chris...so the transfer box/hammer drill effect is a "feature" rather than a problem ;-)

Yes, I agree about the goggles...my wife gaive me a funny look when I walked back indoors....I was bright red. The guy who sold me the ferret gave me 4 helmets, three headsets and some goggles, so I am set for the weekend :-D

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Mick,

I know the guy who sold you your Ferret, he is a good guy. Keep practicing with th transfer box, when I got mine I started out by shutting down the engine when I wanted to go into reverse because I was afraid of the terrible noise!

 

I am tempted to get my Ferret out this weekend now..... :-D

 

Chris

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The "red face syndrome" obtained while driving a Ferret is easily cured. Go to a local automotive glass shop and have a piece of laminated auto glass cut to fit your drivers port. It will 15" x 17" with 1" radius corners. If a glass cutter does exactly that, it will rest in the opening without any form of retention. I used 1/4" wide thin adhesive backed foam weatherstrip to cushion the piece. Make the beginning and end at the top to prevent water leaks! You can even tint the upper portion of the glass if you want. Another tip is to make sure you raise the barrel of the MG so you don't chip the glass when lifting it out. There's possibility of it leaning out forward if you have to brake very, very hard, but I have had a glass in 00 DC 81 for over six years and so far so good.

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Chris, you are right, moving from forward to reverse is not actually that bad, and seems to have got a lot better now that its idling slower and I have toggled up and down the gears a few more time before starting the engine.

 

Thanks Ian, I'll give it a try.

 

 

I am getting a bit closer (I hope) to my power problem...there was all sorts of sh*t in teh carb, especially in a non-return valve at the bottom of the carb. I replaced the two diaphrams for the accelerator jets. It seems a bit livelier now, but still lacks full on power.

Also, the economy device on the side of the carb, from what I can make out provides a fair amount of fuel for full power. The diaphram in that appears to have turned into cardboard, and there was fuel behind the diaphram. I just got a new one and will fit that at the weekend....fingers crossed!

 

Mick

 

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ha ha I think you're all wimps! We go along fine well over 40 with no window, no goggles or anything, even in winter, I just can't be bothered with wearing all the extra gear! 8-)

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