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MK3 Morris quad beatle back


Catch 22 LBDR

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What's the Manx registered motor that's in the background?

 

I cant remember, but I know we were storing it for a friend of my dads. I will ask him next time I see him, if I remember.

 

Just asked the old man, It was an Austin seven tourer.

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I have been working on the front right wing. I don't have the equipment to make compound curves or the money to pay someone else to make them so I have to try and repair what I have. I have never done welding this light before. I will see how it comes out and decide if they are good enough to use.

 

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Hi,

 

You have done a fantastic job so far, an inspiration to us all. As for the compound curves, I had the same sort of problem with my CMP HUP. The rear of the roof is quite difficult to manufacture, as are the inner and outer rear wheel arches. As the vehicle didn't come with the roof or the rear wheel arches these had to be made. I cant afford to pay someone to do this work and if I could I would prefer the challenge myself, I don't the access to the pressing or forming equipment either so fabrication, cutting and welding, was the only option. As you can see from the above picture I used wooden moulds, this isn't practicle for more then about two off but for small quantities it works well. I am pleased with the end result, its a cheap and a fairly easy method, although it does mean a lot of cutting and grinding. Carry on the good work.

 

 

Jonathan

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No, not at all, short welds on a low heat and let the glow fade for a second between each weld. Once you get used to it, you get quicker all the time, the trick is don't rush. The roof sheet is 0.8 thick and I use a standard mig, no doubt a tig would be even better but I don't own one. The wheel arches are 1.6mm thick so welding isn't a problem, the mould just has to be solid enough to put up with the hammering of the sections into shape. Once I had made a mould, I had a play with some card to see roughly how the steel would have to be cut and went from there. You don't have to be exact with the initial steel shape, as you progress to form the shape you find that some areas overlap. so using a thin cutting disc cut both layers at once, you get a perfect join then just tack it and carry on. Once you have the shape weld it all up. I hope that helps, I use this technique all the time so I hope it helps.

 

Jonathan

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Thanks Jonathan.

I am using a DC arc plant. I found I could turn it down and do 1.6 no prob but the 1mm wing was much harder. I am going to repair the wing I have first, so I know what it should look like and see how it turns out. If its poo I will make up new ones from 1.6. Thanks for your help mate.

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