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Just managed to get this poor old thing in the shed. Seems much larger than I remember and will be a very long and slow project due to other distractions. However I'll start this thread as an incentive and baseline.

Came with crates, boxes and multiple packets of spares - no idea what they are but will get a spare parts list and itemize them. Doesn't have a turret: Australian Army had 15 Saladins but put their turrets on APC's. Sold 6 hulls to NZ and those turrets found their way back onto hulls, but the others seem to have gone up in smoke, so a turret is on my wish list.

At this stage I have little idea where to start and will be pestering the "I know I'm stupid" forum. However I'm starting with WD-40 to the hinges, then think I'll try getting the tin work off for tarting up that and the outside hull. Inside is a bit too much for me to tackle for a while. Re mechanicals, my plan is to start with the wheel bearings and brakes, once I figure out how to do it. Then probably need to remove the engine.... Anyway - I'll post again when I've made a bit of progress (don't hold your breath!). Also have a Saracen turret to fix up but that's much less daunting!

James

Saladin-1.2.jpg

Saladin-1.3.jpg

Saladin-1.4.jpg

Saladin-1.5.jpg

Saladin-1.6.jpg

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Is that the one which had been advertised for while ?

There is one restored aussie Saladin which survived with its turret and I believe it also has a B81 motor fitted.

The turret from the Saladins were fitted to M113s, but I think that they were removed for another M113 up grade of a American turrent which we are still using on the aussie M113s.

Turrets must be some where in aust.

I will follow this thread with interest as I will have to do the wheel stations on my Stalwart soon here at Nowra NSW Aust.

Edited by 101 Ron

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Nice to see one of Coventry's finest being brought back to life good luck with it mate..

 

Speak to Fourfox with any questions he is a dabhand at Saladins..!

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"Dear Diary"..

On reflection, I need to start with the inside - it won't go if the controls aren't working. Shovelled buckets of dirt and mud out, and the control rods near the floor (gear change, accelerator) are shot. Was stuck in 3rd gear but having got all the rods and links off, the gear box lever works freely - a HUGE potential headache gone! Got the drivers seat out with a bit of angle grinding, and today the handbrake - it actually moves but needs a clean. Next the brake pedal and accelerator rods and links as it becomes easier to get further into the driver's section. There's a rubber sleeve on something on the left that's perished but that's for later. It's amazing how satisfying these little "victories" are. Have also removed some tin work and need to decide whether to get that sandblasted or not. Can't work out how to remove the choke and throttle handles from the shelf in the driver's section - will try "I'm stupid forum". Also can't move the drivers escape hatch - most likely needs brute force, since catches are undone, and I'm wary of undoing the hinge since it has a torsion bar lurking.

Parts list is useful but doesn't list most of the stuff - lots of cables that need more research to find out where they belong.

James

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Sal-4.8.3.jpg

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I have found that the best (but probably not the quickest) way to ease the hinges on all the movable parts is to use a large amount of heat. Just get the parts red hot so that they will just move, and then work the cooling masses with a lot of WD40, backwards and forwards. It can take severl hours.

 

I made a kind of 1 inch plate spanner with a 4 ft. long, 1 inch dia bar welded to it. It gives a good mechanical advantage in working the hatches too and fro.

 

A word of warning (to those with a turret)...the top of the turret is about 8 ft off the ground. Standing on the roof, working the 'spanner' backwards and forwards, but still needing plenty of welly, the spanner slipped big time. I went off the turret roof backwards....and managed to do a complete backwards somersault...landing on my feet on the concrete floor, 8 feet below. I was just beginning to think 'boy, this is your lucky day', when the spanner, on it's descent from quite a height, clouted me on the head! It was probably my lucky day after-all as my cloth cap deflected the collision and prevented a more serious injury.

 

The torsion bar arrangement for the driver's hatch is probably beyond repair. I have now had to make 2 of these as I cannot find spares anywhere. I used a special spring steel (which a freind sourced and brought me from Iceland (really)). The second one I turned one from a damaged CVRT road-wheel spring. The machining was surprisingly easy.

 

08122008005.jpg

 

I have a source for NOS turret rings and traverse gear assemblies, but sadly no spare turret.

 

Jon

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Gave up on the cables and cut them. Jammed solid so hopefully can get NOS. Levered the drivers hatch open enough to get a military jack into the space and used that to get it 3/4 open. Will try heat next. Got more stuff out but won't bore you with that.

101 Ron's query: I later discovered it was on the market for a while, steadily dropping in price so that by the time I heard of it it seemed reasonable (after dropping more). But I got seriously distracted - was looking for a turret for a Ferret but am now besotted!

Robin's query re the Ferret: I was told it's a "prototype". It runs a car carburetter (I think Chev) so air cleaner pokes through the top. Wouldn't last long if shot at but mileage is reasonable. No other obvious mechanical mods apart from "normal" spark leads and plugs. More pics of it on my introduction.

Thanks Jon - I'm currently seeing if I can get a turret off a wreck and might need help, since it's missing bits (don't know what yet).

Can I ask how to get the drivers hatch torsion bar off? I've removed the plate on the right hand end but not sure if I should just bash it to the left with a centre punch?

Also, is it feasible/possible to knock the pins out to get the engine hatches off, or best left on. I haven't managed to budge them so far.

James

Sal-4.8.12.jpg

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I will try and find out where the restored aussie Saladin is currently located for you.

It may help you greatly to see a running one.

I know a former owner of it and he liked it very much.

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The saga continues, slowly, with a growing pile in the shed of stuff removed, derusted and repainted. Now removing the engine (following the emer) but not sure whether to remove it with the gearbox or would it be easier to separate? The box needs to come out anyway. Also wonder what sort of stand would be best to sit/fit it on to work on?

 

Of more immediate concern, are there any problems swapping in a Saracen engine? Both are b80 but are there any modifications on the Saracen one that I should beware of, or shouldn't I go down that track at all? (My engine might be OK but there was no way of trying to start it in situ, given the condition of the peripherals).

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I fitted a Saracen engine to my Saladin. The differences are down to the generator being larger and using different drive belts, so the pulleys are also different. Everything else should be ok from memory.

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Don't forget that you have to change all the belt pulleys on the engine as even the auxilliary drive for the hydraulic pump and compressor has a different pulley on a Saladin.

 

IMG_1433_zps56bad73a.jpg

 

Here is a view of what it should look like just before you put the fans and radiator back on! (This is 06 BB 68 now residing in a museum in Qatar)

 

Don't forget to renew the little flexible oil pipe underneath the hydraulic pump. It's much easier whilst the engine is out!

I usually diconnect the bell housing to get the engine out, and then remove the gearbox separately. Again, removal of the gearbox is much easier with the turret removed.

 

Jon

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Don't forget that you have to change all the belt pulleys on the engine as even the auxilliary drive for the hydraulic pump and compressor has a different pulley on a Saladin.

 

It also entails changing the timing cover and front mounting plate if memory serves me correct. ;)

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When I re engined my saladin back in the mid1980's, I could not find a 75 amp generator for any where near sensible money, so I fitted the 25 amp generator from the Saracen. I also fitted the Saracens hydraulic pump, and then modified the cooling fans to suit. I don't remember any mods to the timing cover, but I did keep the sarry pulleys and belt arrangement. But it was a long time ago and I don't seem to remember a lot these days.

Edited by Bran D

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Your memory is correct Richard (as always). There is an auxilliary drive on the Saladin engine which does not appear on most of the other B80 vaiants.

 

b802_zps5129d9e1.jpg

 

Here is a view showing a 'non armoured' variant without the auxilliay drive.

 

B807_zpsd707d863.jpg

 

Jon

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I didn't have an engine with my saladin, and could only get an engine from a sarry. I remember it was so much simpler sticking with the sarry pulley setup for the 25 amp generator. Its interesting that if you look in the early user handbook for the saladin, some photos show the mark 6a engine with a 25 amp generator. It states that the first few Saladins were fitted wih the mark 6 a engine, and would be upgraded to the 6d that was fitted with the 75 amp generator. Any one got a later book to see if its the same? My user handbook is dated 1958.

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Thanks for the advice. Fiddling with PTO worries me, given my appalling lack of expertise, so I'll give more thought to keeping the engine.

 

Can I ask a silly question? Have just about got all the bits off ready to remove engine (off to buy a bigger C spanner to free the bevel box seals then that end is sorted) but have to remove generator cable and don't want to break anything. So, fixed to the generator is an L shaped connection with a large connection to the genny and a small one to the cable. I've loosened both but nothing is coming out with a gentle tug, so which bit do I pull harder?

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The generator cable has a right-angle connector fixed to the cable end. It will not come off!

The generator has a soket/plug almost flush with the body.

b801_zpsc2b3fe90.jpg

 

Does this picture help?

 

Jon

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Thanks Jon. Just what I needed. Sorry if these questions seem a bit "blonde".

 

I now need to take the generator off so I can get at the one hull engine mounting bolt I can't get a socket on (think its just dirt and rust but can't get at it yet to clean it). Couldn't push the hydraulic pump against the hull because its mount is seized. Ah well, nearly there...

BUT

The transfer box-bevel box oil seal ring nuts have me worried now! My attempt with a C spanner failed miserably so I resorted to a hammer and punch to spin the nut around. However nothing obvious loosened up and I started to worry if I was going in the wrong direction (although probably just need to keep going the way I was). Am I right in assuming that the nuts screw into the transfer box in the usual direction? So I would hit the right hand one towards the front and the left hand one to the rear? I can't see any other way it would work but really don't want to bust anything (more) if it can be avoided!

 

I'll post some photos when the engine is coming out..

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The engine is out! Folk who know what they're doing might cringe at what I've done (and think this very boring) but "beginners" like me might get a few clues, so here's the story.

 

1. The oil seal nut between the transfer box and centre bevel box has the oil seal threaded into it, so turning it clockwise (facing the transfer box) will screw the oil seal out against the bevel box. So to loosen it, you need to turn the nut anticlockwise. I thought the opposite and just jammed things up even tighter.

 

Oil seal nut.JPG

 

2. Couldn't get at the last bolt to remove the rear engine mount, so in the end I cut it. Should be easily welded

 

Engine mount.JPG

 

3. If you are planning to take out an engine, make sure it rolls before you back it up against a wall! When I tried to move the beast forward it refused, and after uncoupling a couple of drive shafts I discovered that the right centre and left front wheels were seized and the right front free-wheels. No idea why and solved that by removing the stuck wheels. The military wheel spanner was useless so invested in a breaker bar with 3/4" drive and impact sockets - these are fantastic!

 

4. To uncouple the drive shafts I couldn't get the muff couplings off with heat, oil and bashing, so split them. I really try not to cut stuff up! There are several more to remove, so better advice would be appreciated. They should weld up OK if I can't get NOS.

 

Drive shafts.JPG

 

5. The EMER says lift the engine just enough to remove the rear mount. Getting mine out was a real saga but in summary, you need to lift the engine quite high to get the petrol pipe connection over/around the fluid pump. (Another sad story - the pump mount was seized solid and when I tried too hard to move it with the adjuster, the bracket broke off. A friend tells me the sort of casting can't be welded, so a problem for another day).

 

6. Invested in a good quality spanner (well worthwhile) and used a small tow bar to fit over it to get more leverage.

 

Petrol pipe 1.JPG

 

7. The Saladin info says that the rear (pulley end) engine lifting lug is faulty and should not be used, so I put an extra chain under the engine - not overly tight but there in case the other one let go (it didn't).

 

Half out.JPG

 

8. Taking the engine, gearbox and transfer box out as a unit doesn't work with just the engine lifting mounts - too much weight and not balanced. I don't have a big crane to hook everything up, so made a couple of brackets (angle iron) for the two lifting points on the transfer box. Started with the front point and hooked on a block and tackle to a bit of angle iron and timber (with a 2000kg lifting strap) resting on the turret opening. As things moved forward the top support was moved onto the engine compartment, and when it went as far as it would I switched to the rear mounting point, which was also moved rearwards as things moved, until it allowed the assembly to drop down past the rear of the hull.

 

Lifter 4.JPG

 

9. This is out of order, but even after releasing the oil seal the transfer box wouldn't uncouple from the bevel boxes, so resorted to jacking it - gently at first and then with more gusto. The picture isn't actually how it ended up - too much pressure on the centre of the bar so I moved the wood to horizontal and chocked the ends so the pressure was against the outer ends of the bar.

 

Pusher.JPG

 

10. Success! Like delivering an elephant! Next step .. not sure yet but probably clean up the inside, then need to get the wheels working. Does anyone have any EMERs or info re how to tackle the brakes (think that's the problem left front), and bevel boxes? I haven't had any luck finding these - have Saladin info but they are drum brakes.

 

Out!.JPG

 

11. Don't meddle with these big boys! Seventy yards away in the paddock and daring me to try!

 

Kanga.JPG

Lifter 2.JPG

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11. Don't meddle with these big boys! Seventy yards away in the paddock and daring me to try!

 

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Taste good bbq'd, every now and again :-D

 

I hit a huge one up by the Wittenoom turn off a few years ago and just about wrote the car off, so I am not a fan of night driving anymore as spotlights don't work if the bugger is standing behind a tree or a big rock :wow:. On the insurance form it asked who was to blame, answer = the kangaroo and the sketch of the accident was amusing.

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Brilliant effort. Keep up the good work! As mine was rebuilt by none other than FourFox a few years ago I hope never to have to do this!

 

Cheers

Tim

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A cheeky question! I plan to get the mudguards fabricated rather than spending ages fixing the old ones. These are so dinged and dented that I'm not entirely sure of what angles the metal needs to be bent for the front ones. Does anyone have a pdf of the profiles? If not I'll fettle away.

Have cleaned out and painted most of the inside and have the gearbox off and diesel-paraffin 50:50 soaking in the bores to see if I can turn the engine (before taking off the head). Picking up my patched petrol tank (pin holes under the hydraulic oil tank) and serviced radiator tomorrow and will then seal the tanks with the POR 15 from frost.co.uk. Ordered new bar grips (not run flat) from L Jackson and Co. They have around 50 of them and also a couple of run flats.

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