Rover8FFR Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 I had some items for the lightweight blasted recently to bare steel.. Applied Kurust treatment and saw a physical chemical change in steel parts. Question is! Does the rust barrier work in the same way as a primer or is a primer still required before top coats...... Thanks :undecided: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Wayne I still use primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redherring Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 They say you can top-coat straight over kurust however... I would be inclined to primer. Top coats stick well to primer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Okay boys, which works best or just a good quality Red Primer???? Also I notice a lot of sprays in cans are now Acrylic based and wonder how good they are for small parts being refurbished????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I suspect some would say modern red oxide is just glorified red paint & lacks all the toxic goodies that used to be incorporated. Be that as it may I just use DIY store red oxide. As you know I have been needle scaling the Shorland. Some 25 years ago I wire brushed much of it & painted on red oxide. This time I have removed all that & I don't think I have found any active rust under those areas. The rust that has occurred is in the areas I did not paint where I had relied on the original yellow chromate primer for protection. But of course the red oxide of 25 years ago may not be the same as available nowadays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I suspect some would say modern red oxide is just glorified red paint & lacks all the toxic goodies that used to be incorporated. Be that as it may I just use DIY store red oxide. But of course the red oxide of 25 years ago may not be the same as available nowadays There is no doubt in my mind that current 'red oxide' is not worth the writing on the can. 30 years ago I was buying 5 gal drums of ex Mod Red Oxide and they were so heavy it took two of you to lift the drum, stuff I painted then has no signs of rust to this day they had a high lead and high varnish content, what it has done to me spraying without the aid of modern charcoal masks remains to be seen.... I can still count to ten and recognise a jeep at 30 paces so I may be lucky although some who know me probably will say it explains a lot !!. Seriously though I think there are now two ways to go either use an etch primer and a gloss undercoat or use a zinc rich primer and a gloss undercoat. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 There is no doubt in my mind that current 'red oxide' is not worth the writing on the can. 30 years ago I was buying 5 gal drums of ex Mod Red Oxide and they were so heavy it took two of you to lift the drum, stuff I painted then has no signs of rust to this day they had a high lead and high varnish content, what it has done to me spraying without the aid of modern charcoal masks remains to be seen.... I can still count to ten and recognise a jeep at 30 paces so I may be lucky although some who know me probably will say it explains a lot !!. Seriously though I think there are now two ways to go either use an etch primer and a gloss undercoat or use a zinc rich primer and a gloss undercoat. Pete Pete the bits I have had blasted recently were either hot gas zinc sprayed and then received Leighs Paints Epoxy Red Primer (exposed parts) or were epoxy on blasted parts (semi exposed or internal / covered). The high pack epoxy primers are what is used on steelwork in buildings now so very tough. I asked as I thought the Kurust would act as a primer, but with all these vehicles I suspect the better the prep the more protected the parts will be. I guess the proof will be in the results in a few years. Sad thing is that Red Lead was the wonder product paint wise.............There must be something out there that is close to the old super primer????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Some really useful info here for DIY restorer http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/primer.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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