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Early British Voltage Regulator

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Am i right in thinking the early Voltage regulators were standard, a Lucas part on all british bikes ?

 

they appear to be fitted on the rear cross tube above the tool box. On my 16h, it had been removed and was on a bracket behind the seat, i want to fit it back where it should be but cant work out how it attaches to the frame tube ? anyone got any good photos showing how it fixes ?

 

This is what it should look like, though the one in this photo has two cutouts to fit over the tube, mine has two 'feet' is it the wrong one ?

 

Cheers

 

Jules

 

IMG00406-20110625-1557.jpg

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the one in the photo is correct for a 16h it has a clamp bracket that passes under the frame. they are all the same inside. AO services do a solid state regulator that fits inside the origanal casing that is more efficant also by cutting a small link wire it can be converted from 6v to12v. the dynamo is capable of charging 12v this is what i have done to my matchless the battery box has 2 gel batteries inside and with a led rear bulb and small halogen headlight i can use it at night and still charge the battery. and it looks original

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Yes the Norton 16H and Triumphs used this clamp to the frame type MCR1 regulator. Jan from this forum can convert your standard type to the tube type. Here is my 16H and one of my Triumphs. Ron

16H 013.jpg

3HW 086.jpg

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Yes the Norton 16H and Triumphs used this clamp to the frame type MCR1 regulator. Jan from this forum can convert your standard type to the tube type. Here is my 16H and one of my Triumphs. Ron

 

As Ron said, I can make you a DIY conversion set (with instructions), or do the work for you. Please send me an email for more details...

 

Jan

wd(dot)register(at)gmail(dot)com

 

Nortonregulatorconversion2.jpg

 

Nortonregulatorconversion1.jpg

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All the above is correct.....the "shorter" bodied regulators (MCR1) are generally pre-48 and the taller ones (MCR2) went right through to the 1960s.........Lucas did make some that could be adapted for either the clamp fitting or bolt-on with "feet" (which can be cut-off if necessary, the regulator body still incorporating the lower clamp attachment points in the frame).....some wartime WD bikes used post-war were fitted with the later MCR2 as it became available......

 

On a historical detail note, many pre and early wartime MCR1's are marked either "Lead Acid" or "Ni-Fe" above the "FADE" terminal marks to identify the type of regulator necessary dependent on the battery variety fitted....after 1940-41 regulators were unmarked, lead-acid batteries being standardised for all bikes after this period.......:D

 

PS - is that an old piccie Ron, or have you stripped down your rather nice 16H combo ???

Edited by wdbikemad

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That picture was taken a couple of years ago during the rebuild Steve.

Do you recognise this one? Today's sunshine inspired me to get an MOT in anticipation of the imminent riding season. Ron

G3 093.jpg

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Thanks for all your advice guys, Jan, i like your idea, hope you don't mind me copying it, it will do until i find the correct MCR1

 

Cheers

 

Jules

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Well with the parts Jan makes. It will be the correct MCR1. Ron

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Is there a way of identifying MCR1s from the number stamped onto the cap (assuming it's original) ? They seem to be almost random to me. I can't pin down any logical sequence. Presumably the full number includes a code indicating mounting type ? There's probably no-one alive who can decipher it though.

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Is there a way of identifying MCR1s from the number stamped onto the cap (assuming it's original) ? They seem to be almost random to me. I can't pin down any logical sequence. Presumably the full number includes a code indicating mounting type ? There's probably no-one alive who can decipher it though.

 

On many regulators Rik, there is a date beneath......usually month and year.....:-D

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