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The Restoration of Austin Champ 1824


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Got a little more of the diff/rear end done today but reached a point where I couldn't progress, as I am still waiting for two large swivel seals from my local seal supplier. I should have them by the weekend and will be able to finish off the rear diff then.

 

Last weekend, when I was pressing (that should probably read bashing) in the two internal swivel seals, I was obliged to replace the springs in these seals because the originals popped out and were crushed. Anyway, I removed a couple of these springs, from the old seals I had discarded and noticed when they (the springs) were pushed into place in the new seals, that they seemed a bit big and it struck me at the time, that they might therefore not perform as they were intended. I disregarded the problem and bolted on the seal retainer, but it plagued me so this morning I removed the boots/seal retainers and shortened the springs. That wasn’t as easy a job as I thought it would be, mainly due to the tapered spring end being a real dog to get back into the hole at the other end. The job was finally accomplished and I don’t expect to see any leakage from that part of the restoration. Maybe.

 

Then we squeezed the diff into the cradle – not an easy job, but it can be done, albeit brutally and with the potential to damage the rubber swivel boot. The lower wishbone arms were next, after ensuring a plentiful supply of grease was in the pivot pins and that was as far as I could go without the remaining two swivel seals.

 

The result to date ...

 

Champdiffpartialassembly28Nov12.jpg

 

While that was being done, the other two workers were (1) rubbing back the previously primed surfaces and (2) priming the floor of the chassis.

 

The result for the day looks like this ….

 

ChampBodyampchassisprimed28Nov12.jpg

 

The project is now coming together very well and at long last, we can see progress is clearly being made.

 

One of the other small parts to be fabricated, was a set of the instrument panel rubber blocks which secure the panel to the bulkhead. I don’t think these can be obtained from the usual suppliers, but they can be relatively easily made. I was able to separate the two identical parts of the cage – they are spot welded – cut out some thinnish reinforced rubber and insert the original bobbin into a hole drilled through the rubber. The whole job was simple, but hopefully effective and certainly better than using the original parts, the rubber in which had eroded and solidified.

 

Champinstrumentpanelrubbermounts.jpg

 

Perhaps next week we’ll be able to get some DBG onto the primed metal. That'll be real progress, after almost a year on the job.

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G'day Rick(ety)

 

The paintwork does look good - more of that later. I don't want to get diverted from the real message, by trucking your wet wheat to the silo ! (Insert "smiley face" here)

 

Last Sunday I attempted to press the big oil seal into the swivel housing, but found it impossible to do. In lieu of paying high prices and postage from the UK, I opted to buy a seal locally, but found the nearest in diameter, was 5.5”. As the housing and original seal housing was machined to accept a seal that was 5.449” in diameter, the problem was obvious.

 

The solution was to take the housing to an engineering shop and have the housing machined out by around .025", to accept the 5.5” seal. Fixed.

 

ChampSwivelsealhousing.jpg

 

Which meant that we could then complete the assembly of the rear diff/suspension.

 

ChampRearaxleassembled.jpg

 

I’ve still got the axle hubs to instal, but that won’t be overly complex.

 

We got some top coat paint on the chassis today…

 

Champchassisrearpaint.jpg

 

It looks like a two tone job but it's just the camera flash, lightening up the closest part of the vehicle.

 

The body interior also got a lick of paint …

 

Champbodyinteriorpainted.jpg

 

… and the front diff was transformed

 

ChampFrontaxlepainted5Dec12.jpg

 

The paint was from Chameleon and labelled semi gloss, but it's turned out to be more gloss than semi. The effect is very good and I'm very pleased with the outcome. All that insistence on rubbing back the primer and the forced labour involved, has certainly been worth the effort.

 

Next week, we should get both axles bolted onto the vehicle and the body back on the chassis, which has now had strips of rubber glued into place to seal the two pieces (body shell to chassis).

Edited by mazungumagic
can't work the smiley faces !
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I’m trying hard to maintain my positive opinion of the Champ designers, but today I suffered a lapse. It all started when I found I had difficulty in getting the brake drum onto the rear RH side. Despite all obvious remedies, the drum seemed too small to go smoothly over the shoes. Tony discovered the problem when he looked at the rear brake diagram in the EMERs and noticed a RH and LH plunger in the brake adjuster. Once we realised they were handed (really !), we changed their relative places and hey presto, the drum fitted.

 

Couldn’t believe the brake adjuster designer had done this, but the book is never wrong.

 

Anyway, we installed hubs, adjusted bearings and fitted the front brake shoes – the rears had already been attached.

 

The front brake return springs are gorilla sized and it took some leverage to fit them in place, with the occasional victory marred by the realisation that the brake adjuster wasn’t working, which could only mean that we had gotten the shoes around the wrong way and the adjuster post on the shoes, was not in contact with the eccentric adjuster built into the backing plate. That in turn meant we (I) had put the wrong shoe on the wrong side. Off with the shoes and swap them over, struggle manfully to get the return springs in place again and … job done.

 

Drinks all round, again.

 

The brake steady posts took a bit of juggling to get them lined up so the shoes were square with the backing plate but that was all done and the end result was quite pleasing, though we’re still struggling to comprehend the mind of the person who designed the rear brake adjuster.

 

At that stage we decided to fit the front diff. Using a hydraulic trolley, we lifted the diff into place and bolted it up with only minor difficulties getting the bolts in place – especially the front support plate bolts, which are engineered with very fine tolerances. Flushed with success, we did the rear diff as well. The second time was much easier and we now have both diffs on, incl wheels and tyres.

 

Front -

 

Champfrontdiffin12Dec12.jpg

 

Rear being tarted up on the hydraulic trolley (magic piece of kit), before installation -

 

Champdiffin.jpg

 

...and in place -

 

Champreardiffsideview.jpg

 

Next week, we’ll concentrate on getting the torsion bars into place, the vehicle off the drums and onto its own rubber radials. With a little luck and some preparation, we might also get the body shell on, too.

 

Engine and gearbox are next on the list.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]56650[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

A pinzgauer in Perth :D

 

 

Not read this thread so settling in to see where you are up to. I remember seeing a yard full of these South of Perth but can't recall where now.......

Edited by fesm_ndt
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Jerrykins and fesm_ndt - Nice to see you reading the thread.

 

The Pinzy belongs to the owner of the unit where we do such fine work - he also has a coterie of jeeps and trailers as well as a fine collection of tools and machines, to which we are allowed access. All in all, a pleasant environment for our Wednesday's work group.

 

So a little more headway was made yesterday, but work does seem to be slowing - Christmas is getting in the way of progress !

 

The torsion bars went on - well three out of the four are now assembled onto the suspension. The fourth is not quite there yet. The lower wishbone arm to which this RH front torsion bar is bolted, was the one we inadvertently "modified" by knocking out the soldered core plug when we were trying to discover how the whole thing fitted together, ages ago.

 

The core plug was replaced by one I had in my collection, but it didn't indent far enough into the arm and that has in turn meant that the torsion bar won't seat far enough into the wishbone arm to allow the adjuster end to be bolted up into the saddle. Those who are familiar with Champs, will probably know what I'm speaking about.

 

A pic of the offending wishbone arm, with the ersatz core plug -

 

Champwishbonecoreplug_zpse5e75d58.jpg

 

So, the long and short of it is that the arm needs to be replaced with a spare which is currently being cleaned and painted. I hope to have that on within the next week and that'll allow the final torsion bar to be installed. Then the vehicle can be lowered off the drums onto the ground and the height levels, adjusted.

 

Some work on the brake lines also occurred, with the rear setup now complete.

 

Champbrakelinesrear_zps736e8b08.jpg

 

You'll probably notice straightaway, that the brake line junction sitting on the rear of the cross member has been altered from a three way to a four way type (actually it's a five way, but I've blanked off one of the outlets), so I could fit a brake light switch. You can see it if you look closely.

 

The location of the line from there to the junction nearest the master cylinder was a bit of a puzzle, but Brian worked it out from the book diagram (not that easy to interpret) and a good look at the outside of the RH chassis rail. The unique line securing clips were still place, delineating the route along the chassis rail and from there it was easy to fabricate a line. That part of the system is now finished and I think the front section will be a simpler undertaking.

 

I've still to get the master cylinder sleeved - none of the three I have were usable. The bores were too far pitted to hone without affecting the sealing characteristics, though I tried hard.

 

More priming of the body shell top occurred as well -

 

Champbodytop_zps9220651f.jpg

 

.. but it was still too wet to sand by the time work ended yesterday, so that will be done this week and a final top coat (s) will be applied once we return from the Christmas celebrations - on 9 Jan.

 

A little more work was done on stripping the motor and we found three out of the four inlet cam follower seats were too deeply pitted to be used, so I'll have to find more of those. I guess the exhaust followers may be in the same condition. Cylinder bores look very good, though two of the piston rings were broken !

 

This will probably be my last post before Christmas (it's forecast for 40 degrees C here, on Christmas Day), so all the best for the season - enjoy the family time.

 

 

Jack

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Caddy,

 

That comment wasn't meant to cause envy - around here 40 degrees is known as "bloody hot". So our Christmas may be a little uncomfortable but that said, I prefer it to what will be happening in the Northern Hemisphere !

 

Antar - I know nothing about adjusting the torsion bars other than what I read in the EMERs and that doesn't spell it out very well. It simply gives the measurements, if I remember correctly. Can you provide more information on the process ?

 

 

Jack

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Caddy,

 

That comment wasn't meant to cause envy - around here 40 degrees is known as "bloody hot". So our Christmas may be a little uncomfortable but that said, I prefer it to what will be happening in the Northern Hemisphere !

 

Antar - I know nothing about adjusting the torsion bars other than what I read in the EMERs and that doesn't spell it out very well. It simply gives the measurements, if I remember correctly. Can you provide more information on the process ?

 

 

Jack

 

Yes basically the figures in the book are good, but as you raise or lower the adjustment you are also marginally adjusting the track of the tyres so wheeling the vehicle back and too settles the tyres into their natural position taking out any counter forces to the torsion bar adjustment. Also the vehicle should be as near as possible to its complete weight.

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Did a little bit of extra work today - out of session so to speak.

 

I changed over the RHF lower rear wishbone for one which hadn't been tampered with and then managed to fit the torsion bar, so all is well on the suspension now. I also adjusted the 16 brass screw bushes on the outer end of each wishbone arm and fixed them with the 5/16th bolt and tabbed washer.

 

Then I thought I'd have a go at fitting the long prop shaft, connecting rear diff to front diff and found that I don't seem to have enough wiggle room to feed the prop shaft through the chassis tunnel (from the rear to the front - I think I'm right in saying that's the only way it will fit).

 

Is this a rookie mistake ?

 

Should I have done this while the rear diff was still on the bench - and am I going to have to remove and re-bench while I feed the prop shaft through that teensy hole ??

 

No pics today - forgot to take the camera.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One “Rookie Mistake” which will never be spoken about again, has been fixed.

 

After removing wheels, front torsion bars, brake lines, rebound rubbers and a whole lot of bolts, I was able to gently lower the front diff sufficiently to allow the propshaft to be inserted into the hole provided by the designers in the chassis and slid through to the rear diff.

 

Easy peasy.

 

Then using a very handy hydraulic trolley, I raised the front diff back into place and as the books say “reassembly is the reverse of removal”. I had to do a bit of jiggling, but not much – the whole lot went back together very smoothly.

 

Lastly, it was a matter of cutting new 7/16th bolts to the right length, so that breathers and grease points don’t get neatly removed on the first time run and the propshaft was secured.

 

Champfrontviewofpropshaft_zpsf817748f.jpg

 

and

 

Champrearviewofpropshaft_zps28c74a32.jpg

 

With a bit of luck, this will be the last time I have to stop "moving forward" to rectify an RM.

 

Very hot today, around 39 degrees C with the additional bonus of high humidity.

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Finished off the preparation of the top of the body shell and then gave it a topcoat along with some sundry bits that were previously cleaned and primed.

 

Champbitspainted_zpsb85697bb.jpg

 

As soon as the paint was dry (actually we did it before the paint was properly dry – and we’ll pay for that), the chassis was lowered so the wheels touched the ground for the first time in around six months. We then manoeuvred the body shell onto it and the two separate bits got married, like this –

 

ChampBodychassislevel_zps0f7029de.jpg

 

The spirit level indicated the body was sitting about 1/8" lower on the left, but that'll be easily rectified with some suspension adjustment.

 

While all this was going on, concurrent activity was taking place on the engine. The head bolts were removed via a very handy stud remover tool

 

Champenginewithasparagus_zps2ee042c0.jpg

 

..... and a tool was made to remove the larger core plugs -

 

Champcoreplugremoved_zpsce713d5a.jpg

 

All three of those came out easily and flushed with success, a second tool was made (smaller this time) to get the next smallest group of core plugs out – why did they design three different sized core plugs needing three different tools ?

 

Anyway only one of the No 2 sized core plugs came out with the second tool – it was a little too flimsy, so we resorted to harsher measures and welded a nut onto the recalcitrant bugger. It came off then !

 

Champcoreplugnutwelded_zpsf9d80bcd.jpg

 

If there's room under the manifold, we might leave this nut on when we replace the plugs, just in case.

 

There is a third group of two plugs inside the tappet covers, but we reckon they are probably pretty good and we’ll leave them in situ, with fingers crossed.

 

After that work, we gave the engine a tub and a bit of degreaser, to prepare it for the next phase – re-assembly.

 

Champenginecleaning9Jan13_zpsf937357c.jpg

 

Having the two parts of the vehicle married up, made for quite a big day from a satisfaction point of view and we can now start the cosmetics on the side panels of the body, together with further work on the engine re-assembly.

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I'd think very carefully about getting into a Champ restoration, unless

 

a. you can find a vehicle with few flaws (bon chance, mon ami),

b. you've got good trade skills, or

c. like me, you have a small group of willing helpers to take some of the load and brighten each day !

 

The Champ is a comparatively complex vehicle and will test your skills both during and after restoration, but it is rare and that's a plus.

 

 

Jack

Edited by mazungumagic
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Thanks for your reply Jack, all valid points. The Champ in question is a complete, driving and registered vehicle in good condition with very little rust. Restoration would be cosmetic more than anything. I have driven the vehicle and am quite happy with it mechanically. I'm a fairly experienced restorer with a number of 1920s to 40s vehicles already complete so am fairly confident. I do however have a pool of experience and labour to draw upon if need be. I'll post up a picture if I do get it.

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Spent the day, applying body filler to the RH side and a little on the left. This is the area where we were obliged to weld in new panels after cutting out the rust and the finished product needed a little cosmetic assistance.

 

ChampRHbodyfiller_zps428e045c.jpg

 

A second engine (Mk 2A/4 #1531) was delivered today and we began the disassembly process to see if this engine is better or worse than the original we’ve already disassembled. There’s really not a great deal wrong with the first engine (Mk 5A #3097), but there’s no harm in just looking.

 

This engine produced one broken piston ring, which may be caused by the bi chrome upper cylinder liner wearing at a slower rate than the bottom 2/3rds – it’s a theory and I don’t know if it is a contributing factor (we also had broken rings in the first (Mk 5A) motor. You can certainly see the join and (just) feel the slight evidence of wear between the two surfaces.

 

Champbrokenrings_zps4e77b601.jpg

 

The first motor also had a broken piston ring but in addition, had enlarged ring grooves. It is looking like we will be using the Mk 2A/4 engine. I was surprised that the head which we removed yesterday, came off easily - I had read that these are aluminium and thought the head may have grown onto the studs, but it wasn't so.

 

I was also given a body data holder/bracket yesterday, so if we do finish up going with the earlier Mk2A/4 motor, this addition will be very appropriate.

 

ChampEnginedataholder_zpsd28e177a.jpg

 

I took the master cylinder into a brake shop today and had the M/C sleeved with stainless steel, so that is now ready for installation and I also bolted up the switchboard, the first of the electrical components to go back in.

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Did a little bit of homework over the weekend and concentrated on refurbishing the fuel ytank guard.

 

It was initially like this....

 

ChamptankguardRHcornerchannel_zps8465548a.jpg

 

... so I removed the rusted channel by drilling out 36 spot welds and replaced the channel with angle iron.

 

Champtankguardangleironwelded_zpsdc39647d.jpg

 

I've got a little more work to do on the guard to remove some rust areas on the sheet metal, but that's far less tedious.

 

We are also working on the BSF motor (1537) and have just got the exhaust valves to remove as well as the fan hub. The first one we removed (fan hub that is) on the other (Mk5A) motor proved a struggle, but a large set of pullers finally overcame all resistance.

 

I am noting more differences in design and build of these motors, ie Mk 2A/4 and Mk 5A. I'll post up a couple shortly.

 

Master cylinder is now complete and hanging on the underside of the vehicle - just got a few more brake lines to make and instal and that job's done.

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This was one of those days where you spend eight or so hours at a variety of tasks, with not much at the end of the day to show for it.

 

Nonetheless we managed to complete some tasks which are very necessary for the next few steps.

 

We finished stripping the block, including the exhaust lifters which were found to be in perfect shape fortunately (the ones on the Mk 5A block were badly pitted)

 

ChampBSFblockparts_zps82e6b795.jpg

 

… and washed all the muck off the engine block and gearbox. There was a suspicious amount of oily dirt covering the motor but I think this came from a very loose joint between sump, the extension and the block itself.

 

ChampBSFblockwashed_zps30cc4137.jpg

 

Champencrustedgearboxnsump_zps7727e185.jpg

 

I think that the only parts I need to get before re-assembling the motor, is a set of piston rings and they are I hope, on their way. Interestingly, I found that there are Standard thickness rings and Thick rings. Didn’t know that till now but as usual, found that I had a set of new Thick rings, when I needed Standard.

 

The sides of the vehicle have now seen an application of body filler and have been rubbed down. It is just the rear which now needs attention and that will happen next week. After which, we’ll be able to prime and shortly thereafter, lay on the top coat. That'll be a big day, which should see the cosmetics completed !

 

Found another difference between the 2A/4 and 5A engines – the bell housing on the 2A/4 has a detachable inspection hatch, while the 5A is cast in one piece.

 

Champbellhousingdifferences_zpse380c62e.jpg

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The Champ was transformed today from a variety of colours – mainly rust or body filler – to an adorable shade of gray (primer). We tried our best to shield the previously painted areas from the ravages of the primer painter, but it didn’t work and we will probably have to top coat the complete vehicle, as the final stage in this painting exercise. No doubt it will help to have a number of coats deepening the finish.

 

Champfrontrightprimed_zpsbea5e994.jpg

 

Champleftrearprimed_zps642c6571.jpg

 

Also went to work on the gearbox and gave it a rinse with mineral turps to remove the crud from working parts. We also wanted to get the thrust bearing out to make sure that was clean and taskworthy.

 

It was significantly gunked up, but with the removal of a circlip and a few hearty blows on the bearing, everything came apart and was thoroughly washed. After being packed with grease, the whole ensemble went back together and is ready for use.

 

Champgearboxthrustbearing_zps43f72018.jpg

 

The rear seal housing on the gearbox, was also removed as I wanted to replace these seals. I think we were all astonished at the dimensions of the rear bearing. Clearly size did count to the designers and this component is one of many which is unlikely to wear out before the next millennium. It reminded me of the line from "Kenny" after our hero had inspected the inside of a large septic tank - "there's a smell in there that'll outlast religion".

 

Champrearsealsbearing_zps6654a34f.jpg

 

I also mentioned previously, that the brake lines were now complete. To round off that aspect of the restoration, here’s a shot of the master cylinder and a little bit of the tubing. The hole in the floor, through which the (copper) tube from reservoir to master cylinder passes, had been masked by a new sheet of steel replacing a rusted portion, so I was momentarily confused, in regard to how that pipe was routed. Once I noticed the remnants of the hole in the jacking plate, the puzzle was shortlived.

 

Champmastercylinder_zps2ea45017.jpg

 

Next week will see a lot of primer sanding, followed by an application or two of the top coat.

 

After that, I think the last remaining major project will be to pretty up the engine and install.

 

Some big days on the way.

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