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ID these blocks


cmpman

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I am presently assembling a 105mm C1 (M2A2) howitzer. Someone emailed me these photos offering me these, but according to my parts book, they are not 105. The FL number on the firing lock plate look familiar, and I know the 25 pdr uses these type numbers, so I assume they are a British Ordnance prefix. Can anyone ID these blocks? 17 pdr perhaps, or 20 pdr centurian?

 

block1.jpg

block2.jpg

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FL is the prefix to 25 pdr part numbers and there is several types of Block but the two you have are not 17 or 25 pdr.

The ones you have look a bit more suffisticated and modern. :shocked:

 

 

 

I restored this 25 pdr block and FNA over the weekend.

 

Rob....................rnixartillery.

P121111_18.33.jpg

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Thanks Adrian.

 

That makes sense and would explain why one is so rusty. They would have been salvaged off some of our centurions when they went for range targets.

 

They are in Canada so the postage alone would not be cheap. If you are interested, PM me and I can give you the owners email address.

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  • 2 months later...
I am presently assembling a 105mm C1 (M2A2) howitzer. Someone emailed me these photos offering me these, but according to my parts book, they are not 105. The FL number on the firing lock plate look familiar, and I know the 25 pdr uses these type numbers, so I assume they are a British Ordnance prefix. Can anyone ID these blocks? 17 pdr perhaps, or 20 pdr centurian?

 

block1.jpg

block2.jpg

 

Hi cmpman

They look like 105mm Light Gun L118/119 breech blocks, compare them to the 25 pounder block posted on the thread. That has a precussion lock to fire the primer. The light gun is electricaly fired by a fireing box and Peizo ignition so the "fireing pin" is in fact an electrical contact which withdraws when the breech is opened (or it will be broken off). Contact is passed through a series of contacts in the block and breech ring from the box to the fireing contact, if these don't line up, as the breech is not completly closed, the gun wouln't fire, we call this a built in safety.

I hope this helps, the last time I worked on Light Gun was 9 years ago!!

Regards

Artifficer

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  • 11 months later...

Here are some shots of another block I am being offered. The owner thinks it may be from a 105mm gun from a centurion L7 gun.

105mm5_zpsc74ec98a.jpg

105mm6_zpsd06733ec.jpg

105mm1_zpsc1e27388.jpg

The date of 1978 was right at the tail end of our centurion fleet's lifespan. They were replaced by the Leopard late that year.

 

So does anyone know for certain what the block is from? The British were (and still are) located in the Canadian prairies, so it may have come from there.

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As I said before, the first ones look exactly like 20 pr blocks but as the 105 tk was designed to be a simple (!) barrel swap for the 20 pr, I think that they use the same block. The new one looks completely different.

 

It's not for a BAT of some sort, is it?

 

I'll have a look tonight to see if I have a 105mm gun parts list and check that number.

Edited by Adrian Barrell
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Rob, out of interest, what do you use to clean up the metalwork?

 

Andy

 

If its light suface rust and paint the best thing is a stiff cup brush on a 5 or 9 inch grinder,if its proper rust it needs blast treating and polishing.

Thats how I do it !

 

Rob....................rnixartillery

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[cut]Here are some shots of another block I am being offered. The owner thinks it may be from a 105mm gun from a centurion L7 gun. [cut]

 

 

This block is from the 120mm L11 ordnance as used on the Chieftain MBT not the 105mm L7 as used on the Centurion.

 

The TVE (Tube, Vent, Electric) shown should be 0.625 inch and is used to ignite the bag charge for this type of weapon. The deep round cut-out matches up to the angled flash channel the TVE is inserted into, and spreads the flame and hot initiator propellant bits onto the rear of the charge bag which had a booster ignitor pad sewn onto the rear face of the bag.

 

The large circular shallow cut-out is used for one half of the steel obturator system, the other half was inserted into the barrel. Together these provided the seal (obturation) between the barrel (chamber) and the breech block. The small sprung loaded clip located the block insert in place and was linked to a safety interlock (not present) which prevented the gun being loaded without the obturator in position.

 

[ NOTE: The bottom face of the obturator seating had to have a 5 micron finish to ensure correct functioning and was lapped (ground) by hand, very carefully :), using a specialist tool and a specific type of diamond paste. Ah, sweet memories of the many hours that took of my life as a young apprentice :( ! ]

 

The attached may help.

 

120_L11_Obt_01.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

120_L11_Block.jpg

120_L11_Obt_03.jpg

Edited by Old_ROF
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With regards to the earlier blocks shown the following information is for the 20Pdr and 105mm L7 guns.

 

Ord 20Pdr Mk1, Mk1/1, Mk1/2, Mk1/3, Mk2, Mk2/1 - Block Drg No. FL6853

Ord 105mm Tk L7 A1, A2, A3 - Block Drg No. FL6853

 

As previously identified this confirms that the same drawing is used for both the 20Pdr and L7 systems.

 

 

Reference the Light Gun System

1. As a guide the light gun blocks, either the L19 or L20 ordnance as used on the L118 and L119 equipment respectively can be identified by the elongated ears, above the cartridge case opening, of the blocks which enable them to interface with the Light Gun manual opening lever.

2. As identified the L19 ordnance (L118) is electric firing to suit the UK Abbot family of ammunition; the L20 ordnance (L119) is percussion firing to suit the US M1 family of ammunition. When the ordnance is swapped out so are the firing boxes to suit.

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Thanks for the info......guess I'll have to pass on the block but at least I can let the seller know what he has.

 

What I am really after is the block and breech ring for the C1 (M2A2) 105 howitzer. One of these days someone will have what I need.

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If its light suface rust and paint the best thing is a stiff cup brush on a 5 or 9 inch grinder,if its proper rust it needs blast treating and polishing.

Thats how I do it !

 

Rob....................rnixartillery

 

Thanks Rob - just seeing if there was anything particular.

 

Andy

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