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WW2 British Mine Detector


thedawnpatrol

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Jules you haven't told us what model it is.

 

I had a No.3 that used ARP12s that worked with 3v & 120v, although I suspect the HT should have been 150v. But some No.4 detectors were rebuilt & transistorised postwar, so the suffix letter is important.

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Try this site

 

http://www.rotanazdar.cz/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=191:no4a&catid=61:nase-sbirka&Itemid=106&lang=en

 

Also try the WS19 group they gave me some instructons but I cant find them at the moment

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Thanks for the link!

I picked up a ww2 mine detector a few years back and never knew what type it was. The one on the link you posted is identicle, so are the headphones and back-pack

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would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:)

 

Hi,

 

How much do you think you would be looking at to knock one up as I could be very interested in one? However I will check my Detector to see if it is the same plug layout first.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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if you could post a photo of the plug will see what i can do,

we need to find something for this plug to plug into at best.

would like to do this with out cuting old one off

as for cost £20-£30

but your unit is 60 years old it may or may not wont to work

 

would be nice to see this work at a show :cool2:

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if you could post a photo of the plug will see what i can do,

we need to find something for this plug to plug into at best.

would like to do this with out cuting old one off

as for cost £20-£30

but your unit is 60 years old it may or may not wont to work

 

would be nice to see this work at a show :cool2:

 

It's the old British 4-pin (B4) valve base, as used on the Wireless Set No.38 batteries. There are loads of them around, and I can probably find you a couple cheaply if you want them. (Note: the B5 will also work, just ignore the central pin,

 

The normal standard is: regard it as a kite shape, and looking at the plug pins (or the rear of the socket):

 

Left is LT+ (1.5 volts, in this case)

Top is HT- (0 volts)

Right is LT- (0 volts)

Bottom (the pin furthest away from the "group of three") is HT+ (67.5 to 90 volts)

 

Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger).

 

Chris

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It's the old British 4-pin (B4) valve base, as used on the Wireless Set No.38 batteries. There are loads of them around, and I can probably find you a couple cheaply if you want them. (Note: the B5 will also work, just ignore the central pin,

 

The normal standard is: regard it as a kite shape, and looking at the plug pins (or the rear of the socket):

 

Left is LT+ (1.5 volts, in this case)

Top is HT- (0 volts)

Right is LT- (0 volts)

Bottom (the pin furthest away from the "group of three") is HT+ (67.5 to 90 volts)

 

Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger).

 

Chris

 

if we can find a bass like this can make a pack up, my one had the IT4 1.5v & 65+ was a long time back,

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:)

 

Bumping this to see if you can make me a repro working one up as well, it is the 4a with the 4 pins as described and shown in other thread (below)

 

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?22751-4a-mine-detector-battery&highlight=mine+detector+batteries

 

Gary

Edited by gazzaw
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

 

Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger).

 

Chris

 

Just a query we were using 4C's into the 1990's (my troop had 50 on the books which I had to do monthly functional checks on), they were transistorised and ran on a single 9V battery in the amplifier unit which you could mount on your belt.

 

Was the 4C designation used for earlier versions with valves?

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ours is a 4a and has the valve set in the back pack with a seperate tuning/control unit that attaches to the belt. It is totally different from the 4c which was more composite and smaller -batteries different due to transistors and not valves which required a large voltage to operate

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  • 6 months later...

There are also modern solid state 12V to HT converters intended for Nixie Tube clocks to be found on e-bay for pocket money prices - if suitable these will be much cheaper than stacking up a lot of batteries - whether they are suitable will depend on the current drawn (I discovered them initially as a suggestion for another application that needs 110v at nearly no current). A search for "nixie power supply" should turn up several options if you scroll down to items from international sellers. Some are under a tenner including postage to the UK. Together with a step down regulator module for the heaters this should allow most any small valve equipment to run from a 12V supply.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 

Iain

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