thedawnpatrol Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I have recently aquired one of these from a fellow member, does anyone know what batteries they take or how easy they are to get to work ? I doubt it's as effective as my C-Scoope ? but would be nice to get it to 'fire' up. Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Jules you haven't told us what model it is. I had a No.3 that used ARP12s that worked with 3v & 120v, although I suspect the HT should have been 150v. But some No.4 detectors were rebuilt & transistorised postwar, so the suffix letter is important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGREDONE Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) Try this site http://www.rotanazdar.cz/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=191:no4a&catid=61:nase-sbirka&Itemid=106&lang=en Also try the WS19 group they gave me some instructons but I cant find them at the moment Cheers Paul Edited October 12, 2011 by BIGREDONE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XWDV8 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) I had a ww2 one No.4A that used to run off 65v Ht 1.5v LT think the v was IT4 No batterys are made like this now,but you can make them up, have a look at this link Edited October 12, 2011 by XWDV8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHillyard Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Try this site http://www.rotanazdar.cz/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=191:no4a&catid=61:nase-sbirka&Itemid=106&lang=en Also try the WS19 group they gave me some instructons but I cant find them at the moment Cheers Paul Thanks for the link! I picked up a ww2 mine detector a few years back and never knew what type it was. The one on the link you posted is identicle, so are the headphones and back-pack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedawnpatrol Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Both very interesting links, thanks, the home made battery on you tube still looks complicated ! By the way it is a Mk4 that I have. Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XWDV8 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGREDONE Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:) Hi, How much do you think you would be looking at to knock one up as I could be very interested in one? However I will check my Detector to see if it is the same plug layout first. Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XWDV8 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 if you could post a photo of the plug will see what i can do, we need to find something for this plug to plug into at best. would like to do this with out cuting old one off as for cost £20-£30 but your unit is 60 years old it may or may not wont to work would be nice to see this work at a show :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Suslowicz Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 if you could post a photo of the plug will see what i can do,we need to find something for this plug to plug into at best. would like to do this with out cuting old one off as for cost £20-£30 but your unit is 60 years old it may or may not wont to work would be nice to see this work at a show :cool2: It's the old British 4-pin (B4) valve base, as used on the Wireless Set No.38 batteries. There are loads of them around, and I can probably find you a couple cheaply if you want them. (Note: the B5 will also work, just ignore the central pin, The normal standard is: regard it as a kite shape, and looking at the plug pins (or the rear of the socket): Left is LT+ (1.5 volts, in this case) Top is HT- (0 volts) Right is LT- (0 volts) Bottom (the pin furthest away from the "group of three") is HT+ (67.5 to 90 volts) Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger). Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XWDV8 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 It's the old British 4-pin (B4) valve base, as used on the Wireless Set No.38 batteries. There are loads of them around, and I can probably find you a couple cheaply if you want them. (Note: the B5 will also work, just ignore the central pin, The normal standard is: regard it as a kite shape, and looking at the plug pins (or the rear of the socket): Left is LT+ (1.5 volts, in this case) Top is HT- (0 volts) Right is LT- (0 volts) Bottom (the pin furthest away from the "group of three") is HT+ (67.5 to 90 volts) Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger). Chris if we can find a bass like this can make a pack up, my one had the IT4 1.5v & 65+ was a long time back, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:) I would also be interested in one too as I have just picked up a No 4 as well Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 (edited) would be happy to make one up for you, let me know:) Bumping this to see if you can make me a repro working one up as well, it is the 4a with the 4 pins as described and shown in other thread (below) http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?22751-4a-mine-detector-battery&highlight=mine+detector+batteries Gary Edited May 12, 2012 by gazzaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 bump as all quiet of late helllooo anyone out there lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Don't plug it into a WS38 battery (or power unit) because those have 3 volt LT and 150 volt HT and you'll blow all the valves on the 4C (the earlier units using ARP12s do take the WS38 battery, which is much larger). Chris Just a query we were using 4C's into the 1990's (my troop had 50 on the books which I had to do monthly functional checks on), they were transistorised and ran on a single 9V battery in the amplifier unit which you could mount on your belt. Was the 4C designation used for earlier versions with valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 ours is a 4a and has the valve set in the back pack with a seperate tuning/control unit that attaches to the belt. It is totally different from the 4c which was more composite and smaller -batteries different due to transistors and not valves which required a large voltage to operate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Still bumping this from last June and trying to get a battery made up for my detector, anyone make any progress on this as would like to get it working again Thank You Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 There are also modern solid state 12V to HT converters intended for Nixie Tube clocks to be found on e-bay for pocket money prices - if suitable these will be much cheaper than stacking up a lot of batteries - whether they are suitable will depend on the current drawn (I discovered them initially as a suggestion for another application that needs 110v at nearly no current). A search for "nixie power supply" should turn up several options if you scroll down to items from international sellers. Some are under a tenner including postage to the UK. Together with a step down regulator module for the heaters this should allow most any small valve equipment to run from a 12V supply. Hope this helps Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaw Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 thanks will look at these but the problem also include the socket on the battery that fits the plug in the detector etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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