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David B.

British WW2 10 cwt GS Trailer

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John - thanks for the comments.

 

Tony - I fell lucky - managed to swap them with someone for the old mudguards plus a chunk of cash - so can't help I'm afraid

 

I'm going to do something different with the markings - no Div/AoS signs but instead just the unit code number and three coloured POM bars on the rear LHS as seen on some British vehicles around D-Day. The order to remove existing markings and replace them in this format for security reasons seems to have been widely ignored in British/Commonwealth units but it is on record that these Allied orders went to both British/Commonwealth and American unit commanders

Edited by simon king

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Primed the mudguards yesterday and fitted them today - so that's all the hard work done. Looks a bit like a Bomb Disposal trailer at the moment though.

 

Made up an L-shaped plate for the axle flood/tail light changeover switch and Butler WD type tailight. The axle floodlight has been fitted with a little L-bracket to the central of the three brackets (for who knows what???) which are welded to the frame. Seemed to be a pragmatic solution - although as I had to replace it, I think it had been cut off originally to allow the fitment of the floodlight and switch on a flat plate. The axle plate is an original item.

 

IMG_2557.jpg

 

Although the T-plate was originally hung on two bars welded to the RHS rear stanchion, I decided to instead screw it to the RHS of the tailgate - it fits nicely. There is a precedent for this - see the example parked up at Pegasus Bridge

Edited by simon king

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Simon,

 

A superb job so far but just to be a bit picky - shouldn't the rear tailgate hinge pins be facing in opposite directions, i.e the left hand one (as viewed from the rear) should be pointing in so that the tailgate cannot come off when it is lowered. Certainly that is the case on my mortar trailer and also most trailers I have seen. Both my hinge pins face inwards. Of course if there were holes on the chassis to fit it this way then there is no argument.

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Simon,

 

A superb job so far but just to be a bit picky - shouldn't the rear tailgate hinge pins be facing in opposite directions, i.e the left hand one (as viewed from the rear) should be pointing in so that the tailgate cannot come off when it is lowered. Certainly that is the case on my mortar trailer and also most trailers I have seen. Both my hinge pins face inwards. Of course if there were holes on the chassis to fit it this way then there is no argument.

 

Thanks Tony - always good to have comments from the 10cwt trailer community.

 

No the hinge pins are as original - The pins were/are drilled for a split pin and a retaining washer so the tailgate can be removed as required - so presumably if the load is longer than the trailer bed then you can transport said item without the tailgate swinging around and banging itself to bits

 

Finished your nice new compressor yet :-)

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Thanks Tony - always good to have comments from the 10cwt trailer community.

 

No the hinge pins are as original - The pins were/are drilled for a split pin and a retaining washer so the tailgate can be removed as required - so presumably if the load is longer than the trailer bed then you can transport said item without the tailgate swinging around and banging itself to bits

 

Finished your nice new compressor yet :-)

 

Simon,

I'd have thought the pins WOULD face in same direction, so that (as you say) it can be removed. Every agricultural trailer I have ever used has similar pins set up that way, and the tailgate could be pinned or more often was held in place by the trailer sides when shut.

Perhaps, knowing Mr Lawrences love of all things related to safety, he has adapted his mortar trailer so that the tailgate cannot accidentally fall on his foot? :cool2:

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Simon,

I'd have thought the pins WOULD face in same direction, so that (as you say) it can be removed. Every agricultural trailer I have ever used has similar pins set up that way, and the tailgate could be pinned or more often was held in place by the trailer sides when shut.

Perhaps, knowing Mr Lawrences love of all things related to safety, he has adapted his mortar trailer so that the tailgate cannot accidentally fall on his foot? :cool2:

 

Must admit I was doubtful at first but it was just possible to determine the faint outline of a hole through the hinge pins filled with the cross section of a split pin when I de-rusted and cleaned up them up. With that evidence it was just a case of drilling them out as the remnants of the split pins were rusted solidly into the hinge pins.

 

More likely that the mortar trailer was designed to carry nothing larger than mortar parts or boxed mortar bombs so no need for a removeable tail or head board - he said charitably :-)

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Must admit I was doubtful at first but it was just possible to determine the faint outline of a hole through the hinge pins filled with the cross section of a split pin when I de-rusted and cleaned up them up. With that evidence it was just a case of drilling them out as the remnants of the split pins were rusted solidly into the hinge pins.

 

More likely that the mortar trailer was designed to carry nothing larger than mortar parts or boxed mortar bombs so no need for a removeable tail or head board - he said charitably :-)

 

​Perfect weather today for dismantling a Compressor trailer - he said doubtfully

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That's another beer you owe me this evening!!

If you look at the previous photos of my mortar trailer and others you will see that the pins are as I described so obviously there were many variations.

The compressor trailer is completely dismantled (in my dreams)

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In defence of the wise and venerable Mr. Lawrence, my mortar trailer's tail/head gate is fixed in place by opposing fittings and were refitted on the original holes; along with confirmation of fitment from the photo in the postwar parts manual.

With respect and regards to all, Neil

 

Any comfirmation details can be found in:

 

WO Code No 12995

Illustrated spare parts list,

for

Trailer,1/2ton,G.S Cargo 2 Wheeled, No 1 and 2

Trailer,1/2ton, 4.2in Mortar No1, 2 Wheeled

Trailer,1/2ton, 4.2in Mortar Ammunition No1, 2 Wheeled

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The warm weather this week has enabled me to progress the painting a bit. Got the first coat on the outside - just the inside of the bed to paint. OK I know I should have started on the inside - but I was only going to do the odd difficult bit on the outside and then got carried away..................

 

IMG_2563.jpg

 

Not entirely happy with the finish (semi-matt BS381c 499 Service Brown) as it's not a constant matt finish - so might rub it down and recoat - or even flash over some thinned Ronseal satin varnish - something I've used before - if it browns with age it's not going to matter. Any ideas how to avoid the "pooling" which seems to lead to patches of shinier paint? - or any recommendations for idiot-proof non-temperamental paint.

 

Hey ho - One step forward and two steps back

Edited by simon king

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The warm weather this week has enabled me to progress the painting a bit. Got the first coat on the outside - just the inside of the bed to paint. OK I know I should have started on the inside - but I was only going to do the odd difficult bit on the outside and then got carried away..................

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]103698[/ATTACH]

 

Not entirely happy with the finish (semi-matt BS381c 499 Service Brown) as it's not a constant matt finish - so might rub it down and recoat - or even flash over some thinned Ronseal satin varnish - something I've used before - if it browns with age it's not going to matter. Any ideas how to avoid the "pooling" which seems to lead to patches of shinier paint? - or any recommendations for idiot-proof non-temperamental paint.

 

Hey ho - One step forward and two steps back

 

As in model making, several fine mist coats with a time gap in between should prevent pooling of paint. However it is so easy to get impatient and carried away as I know from experience. Your idea of varnish as a final coat should work.

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Sprayed the markings over the weekend - in addition to these seen, there's just tyre pressures on the mudguards and the unit serial on the o/s/f frame.

 

Might add the speed limit if I can tease the stencil round various bolts and fit between two rope hooks.

 

IMG_2596.jpg

 

Last step today was to finally attach the new dataplate - from Robert at Dataplates4U. Luckily the plate for a GS trailer built by SS Cars was a stock item

IMG_2593.jpg

Edited by simon king

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Thats a fine looking trailer, I think the finish looks just right from what I an see

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thanks -for the comments - and to everyone who's offered advice and support during the project...

 

which started like this

 

trailer2.jpg

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Well done - a fine result. When will we see it on the road?

 

Got to fathom out how to fit and connect a street legal lighting board at the back first Tony - something that can be removed easily and won't do too much damage. Construction and Use regs only require marker lights on a pre-1955 trailer IIRC but today's road conditions suggest a full set is sensible, The jeep is June 42 - pre trailer socket - so will have to fathom something out jeep wiring-wise as well. Perhaps a modern socket hidden within one of the jeep's tool-boxes might be the answer.

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I remember seeing that trailer for sale on milweb, well done the finished result looks great.

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I picked up this old warhorse from Surrey last week, another one saved.

 

Used frequently on a farm and kept under cover. Hasn't been on the road for over 35 years.

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If you are interested in selling this how much would you be looking for it. What town are you located, giving me post code as well. Thank you for sending me the photographs. very much appreciated.

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